In Sweden you can have 2 kg letters! Even as the shape as a package. A 1.8 kg letter was today sent to Canada (my group buy).Dennis Hui said:
I tried mailing a pair of Aleph-X PCBs to the UK
and the post office said it cannot be mailed as
a letter. It ended up going as a <250g small
packet.
James is right on, use the best components to get the best results. This has been discussed to some extent on the original thread.
Guys,
Please don’t bother Dennis with silly questions he has a big workload managing this GB on his spare time; so he most probably wont answer. Just send him mails with the information he requested on post 159.
Cheers,
Guys,
Please don’t bother Dennis with silly questions he has a big workload managing this GB on his spare time; so he most probably wont answer. Just send him mails with the information he requested on post 159.
Cheers,
thanks Dennis
Email sent and wiki updated.
Thanks for taking the time to run this GB Dennis. Having run one myself previously, I know there is ALOT of unseen work and time that goes into these and this is probably a record size GB, so kudos to you for that too!
Cheers to you
you have my appreciation (and sympathy
)
Email sent and wiki updated.
Thanks for taking the time to run this GB Dennis. Having run one myself previously, I know there is ALOT of unseen work and time that goes into these and this is probably a record size GB, so kudos to you for that too!
Cheers to you


Hi all.
Toolereg:
I wasn't read all technical details, but...
I do belive that R5 has to be 10KOhm, not 1KOhm
With 1 KOhm and Supply voltage of 29V, one will have over 20mA through D1, which is way too much.
Most probably intention is to drive it with 2-3 mA
or maybe I just missunderstood something ?
Toolereg:
I wasn't read all technical details, but...
I do belive that R5 has to be 10KOhm, not 1KOhm
With 1 KOhm and Supply voltage of 29V, one will have over 20mA through D1, which is way too much.
Most probably intention is to drive it with 2-3 mA

or maybe I just missunderstood something ?
Thanks Jose it helps alot,now I know the size of chassis I will need to fit the raw supply ,regs and active xover PCB.JC Fardo said:
I would check lead spacing for 22uf C2
Boards dimensions .pdf below:
Hope this helps.![]()
Thanks gents for the input regarding C2.Their was mention of BG and OS CON premium "lytics" being possible candidates, thus my query on the suitability of the Panny FC.If low ESR is a critical parameter for this part then I will use the suggested Panasonic mylar.
Thanks Fred
spavleski said:Hi all.
Toolereg:
I wasn't read all technical details, but...
I do belive that R5 has to be 10KOhm, not 1KOhm
With 1 KOhm and Supply voltage of 29V, one will have over 20mA through D1, which is way too much.
Most probably intention is to drive it with 2-3 mA![]()
or maybe I just missunderstood something ?
Yes, your right, this was discused some place before, R5 is 10K.
I have a corrected schematic for both polarities with some added info and will post it before year end.
Cheers,
F1 FAN said:
Thanks Jose it helps alot,now I know the size of chassis I will need to fit the raw supply ,regs and active xover PCB.
Thanks gents for the input regarding C2.Their was mention of BG and OS CON premium "lytics" being possible candidates, thus my query on the suitability of the Panny FC.If low ESR is a critical parameter for this part then I will use the suggested Panasonic mylar.
Thanks Fred
The final layout is somewhat different as the one shown by José Carlos and will now accept diferent styles of output caps, we made this part of the PCB a bit bigger to be more flexible on the selection of C2 since availability of those Wima mylars seems to be a bit scarce.
@apassgear: Yup - thanks. Now I see that it was discussed
earlier here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1685153#post1685153
Very nice pcbs, easy to find parts and easy to build shunt reg!
Well Job done😀
earlier here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1685153#post1685153
Very nice pcbs, easy to find parts and easy to build shunt reg!
Well Job done😀
Hi guys,
It's been a crazy few days here...
Anyway, so far I've heard from about 80% of the
participants listed on the wiki, translating to
~110 NS10 and ~970 Toole regulator boards.
Let's give it a few more days since people may
be away on vacation.
If you have not contacted me and would like to
participate in this GB, please contact me per
the instruction in this post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1695547#post1695547
Please try to contact me by next Tuesday (Jan 6, 2009).
If you are no longer interested in participating, please
remove your name from the wiki list.
Thanks,
Dennis
It's been a crazy few days here...
Anyway, so far I've heard from about 80% of the
participants listed on the wiki, translating to
~110 NS10 and ~970 Toole regulator boards.
Let's give it a few more days since people may
be away on vacation.
If you have not contacted me and would like to
participate in this GB, please contact me per
the instruction in this post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1695547#post1695547
Please try to contact me by next Tuesday (Jan 6, 2009).
If you are no longer interested in participating, please
remove your name from the wiki list.
Thanks,
Dennis
There are still 36 "NO/no" in the reply column. Yes, even Dennis.
I wonder if some have forgotten to go back and edit the "Info Email Sent" column?
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Toole+Regulator+PCB+GB+
Scroll to bottom of Wiki page and "click here now to edit this Wikipage".
Logon on as instructed. Just add your Logon name, don't change any other fields.
Scroll through the editing window (dialogue box) and point across to the correct column. change the "no" to "yes" after you have Emailed Dennis.
"save" and then check your update has been effected correctly. You can preview your change before saving it, but still check after saving.
I wonder if some have forgotten to go back and edit the "Info Email Sent" column?
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Toole+Regulator+PCB+GB+
Scroll to bottom of Wiki page and "click here now to edit this Wikipage".
Logon on as instructed. Just add your Logon name, don't change any other fields.
Scroll through the editing window (dialogue box) and point across to the correct column. change the "no" to "yes" after you have Emailed Dennis.
"save" and then check your update has been effected correctly. You can preview your change before saving it, but still check after saving.
Would this be a good regulator for a B1 buffer implementation? I'm searching for a 20V psu to use with my B1.
marc brown said:Would this be a good regulator for a B1 buffer implementation? I'm searching for a 20V psu to use with my B1.
Shure enough, this is the best reg for B1 or any other lineamp, you can set the voltage easy.
Suggest you read the Hints file...
Cheers,
marc brown said:Thanks for the tip. I just added my name to the GB for the toolereg. 😎
BTW, with short leads between supply and amp you can do without decoupling lytic caps and enjoy the sound.
apassgear said:
Shure enough, this is the best reg for B1 or any other lineamp, you can set the voltage easy.
Suggest you read the Hints file...
Cheers,
Where is the hints file? For the B1 should I use 18V or 9V + 9V?

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