18Sound do some nice 6" drivers.
I've hit the 6ND430 with a few hundred watts and they've held up just fine.
Chris
I've hit the 6ND430 with a few hundred watts and they've held up just fine.
Chris
That 5MDN38 looks quite good actually. So I am not leaving anything on the table sound quality wise at lower volumes compared to for instance the SS 15M/4624G?
To properly answer that question you need to hear both the SS and B&C with well executed crossovers. Maybe they would sound different but maybe not better or worse just different. A good high efficiency driver have a more snappy feel even at low SPL ime (and the 5mdn38 is a good one), although the 15M is fairly high eff amongst the home drivers. And at high DPL, there would be no question imo.
Maybe someone have real experience to share here.
Maybe someone have real experience to share here.
Have you ever listened to music or film at 110 dB? perhaps you have, but that is higher than rock concert SPL. 15 seconds of 110 dB makes my ears ring for 10 minutes or more.
Before you decide that you really need 110 dB capability, you should try exposing yourself to 110 dB. Turn on a large power tool, move your mobile phone closer until the dB-meter-app says "110 dB", then remove your hearing protection and put your face in the same spot as the mobile phone.
Before you decide that you really need 110 dB capability, you should try exposing yourself to 110 dB. Turn on a large power tool, move your mobile phone closer until the dB-meter-app says "110 dB", then remove your hearing protection and put your face in the same spot as the mobile phone.
I think all along skogs has said 110dB is only for transient peaks...that he does not at all expect to listen that loud on average.
I'd say, that's a decent number to shoot for.
I use 18dB as the peak to average spec.
So 110dB now becomes 92dB.
And that's at 1m.
I typically listen, watch, at about 4m.
So knock another 12dB off, and now we're at 80dB, average to the ears.
No risk to hearing imo. And good strong sound.
I'd say, that's a decent number to shoot for.
I use 18dB as the peak to average spec.
So 110dB now becomes 92dB.
And that's at 1m.
I typically listen, watch, at about 4m.
So knock another 12dB off, and now we're at 80dB, average to the ears.
No risk to hearing imo. And good strong sound.
As previously mentioned, I just want to be sure that my system can handle thx reference level, Which specifies 105db peaks from each speaker at the listening position. I typically go for 5 dB below reference level, but it's nice to have the full experience every once in awhile. The midrange I'm looking for will in combination with a tweeter replace my current PH2380 horn.
I used to work at a testing facility for 10MW+ engines, so I am aware of the dangers of sustained high SPL's. I think I have been confusing people with the 110db/1m requirement. I don't listen at anywhere near those levels sustained at the listening position. 10 seconds of 110db is insane.
I used to work at a testing facility for 10MW+ engines, so I am aware of the dangers of sustained high SPL's. I think I have been confusing people with the 110db/1m requirement. I don't listen at anywhere near those levels sustained at the listening position. 10 seconds of 110db is insane.
I think all along skogs has said 110dB is only for transient peaks...that he does not at all expect to listen that loud on average.
I'd say, that's a decent number to shoot for.
I use 18dB as the peak to average spec.
So 110dB now becomes 92dB.
And that's at 1m.
I typically listen, watch, at about 4m.
So knock another 12dB off, and now we're at 80dB, average to the ears.
No risk to hearing imo. And good strong sound.
Thank you!
The driver might be a good choice as a horn driver.I think GM mentioned the stiff suspension as
I'd also add that I don't have a problem with pro drivers producing low level detail, used properly like any driver.
As previously mentioned, I just want to be sure that my system can handle thx reference level, Which specifies 105db peaks from each speaker at the listening position. I typically go for 5 dB below reference level, but it's nice to have the full experience every once in awhile. The midrange I'm looking for will in combination with a tweeter replace my current PH2380 horn.
I used to work at a testing facility for 10MW+ engines, so I am aware of the dangers of sustained high SPL's. I think I have been confusing people with the 110db/1m requirement. I don't listen at anywhere near those levels sustained at the listening position. 10 seconds of 110db is insane.
It sounds like you have a good understanding of what 110 dB really is. Your requirements (THX) seem reasonable.
Cone/dome drivers can typically absorb transient power well above their power rating, as long as you don't run out of voice coil travel.
In my opinion, you should consider one of the high efficiency drivers discussed in the above posts... if you want to stay with this 4 inch SB driver, you should use two of them as MTM.
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That one and the aforementioned waveguide will do just fine. You won’t need 110dB SPL at 3kHz but the 18sound is a very, very good driver and affordable too.18Sound do some nice 6" drivers.
I've hit the 6ND430 with a few hundred watts and they've held up just fine.
So you say "sound quality" is not good with pro sound drivers? I don't think that's true. Of course there are pro drivers that are not so good for home hifi, but there are home hifi drivers that are not so good for that task either.
But for very high SPL, there are only few home hifi drivers that are up to the task, and these are not the smaller ones that you are after, imo.
Not what I said, my remarks were strictly for the 5MDN38-8, though did [strongly] imply that any [super] stiff compliance normally only used for horn and OB apps without a correspondingly powerful motor to offset it combined with a lower Fs will be a poor choice for the OP's app in general, including accurately tracking the signal at low power relative to the driver's max 'music' power and especially during up to [Xmax +] peak power transient bursts.
Right, and why I showed earlier that a 6.5" should be at minimum, though historically I've used the pioneer's preferred 8".
GM
Okay, sorry GM! I don't think I understand properly what you want to say with the signal tracking and so, but... maybe.
The OP wants a midrange and using that with heavy filtering (high and low-pass too). So a stiff suspension driver (with filtering) is not good for that task because it not tracks the signal properly at lower level?
Maybe I don’t have the expertise as yours, but I don’t see the connection.
Yeah, I recommended a 6.5" or 8" driver earlier too.
What do you say GM, what would be the sound signature of the bad signal tracking?
The OP wants a midrange and using that with heavy filtering (high and low-pass too). So a stiff suspension driver (with filtering) is not good for that task because it not tracks the signal properly at lower level?
Maybe I don’t have the expertise as yours, but I don’t see the connection.
Yeah, I recommended a 6.5" or 8" driver earlier too.
What do you say GM, what would be the sound signature of the bad signal tracking?
This sounds like a phenomenon called stiction. It is theoretically possible, in for eg. the spider. It would produce more harmonic distortion at lower levels except that in most cases its effect is insignificant.not tracks the signal properly at lower level?
Thanks Allen! At least we have some theoretical clue for the stiff suspension.
Moreover I don't understand the formula that GM wrote earlier:
"~[300*2500]^0.5 = ~866 Hz mean = ~34400/pi/866 = ~12.65 cm dia. = ~ 6.5" frame"
What is this for?
Moreover I don't understand the formula that GM wrote earlier:
"~[300*2500]^0.5 = ~866 Hz mean = ~34400/pi/866 = ~12.65 cm dia. = ~ 6.5" frame"
What is this for?
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Understanding midrange driver output capability