hi
Recently an alternator failure overcharging blown my dynaquest underseat subwoofer render it out of service ... now i am looking for a replacement ... i have 2 choice now ... a replacement unit for the underseat unit or a rear trunk mount conventional subwoofer unit? if i am going for the rear trunk unit i will remove the 2 units of 6x9's to let the bass enter the cabin easily ... and if is trunk mounted unit i will go for double 10's ... but a question here if i am going to remove the 6x9's (shown in picture and FYI those speakers were not working/BLOWN and no point keeping it on the rear tray) to let the bass in what else alternative can be done for the rear channel speakers? my previous car projects doesnt deliver promising bass with any speaker on the rear tray blocking the bass waves into the cabin. The rear trunk of this old car is isnt very big
or another option here is after i removed the 6x9's ... i will PORT the box into the cabin which is the listening area while another port fires into the trunk ... will that work too?
if i am going for the underseat replacement same unit and model it will be just a plug and play job but the bass level doesnt meet my satisfaction.
Selected candidate for the 2 10's subwoofer (170mm magnet) will be as shown in picture ... and can i just use prefab box or i need to calculate and build own box? (too lazy to build my own box and currently working😀) i dont mind sacrificing trunk space at the moment because i dont carry many stuffs behind the rear trunk. Box will be slot ported box regardless of prefab or custom home made box
current setup = 6inch component door mounted speaker tweeter dashboard mounted and underseat subwoofer + Android multimedia player
any opinions ? thanks
Recently an alternator failure overcharging blown my dynaquest underseat subwoofer render it out of service ... now i am looking for a replacement ... i have 2 choice now ... a replacement unit for the underseat unit or a rear trunk mount conventional subwoofer unit? if i am going for the rear trunk unit i will remove the 2 units of 6x9's to let the bass enter the cabin easily ... and if is trunk mounted unit i will go for double 10's ... but a question here if i am going to remove the 6x9's (shown in picture and FYI those speakers were not working/BLOWN and no point keeping it on the rear tray) to let the bass in what else alternative can be done for the rear channel speakers? my previous car projects doesnt deliver promising bass with any speaker on the rear tray blocking the bass waves into the cabin. The rear trunk of this old car is isnt very big
or another option here is after i removed the 6x9's ... i will PORT the box into the cabin which is the listening area while another port fires into the trunk ... will that work too?
if i am going for the underseat replacement same unit and model it will be just a plug and play job but the bass level doesnt meet my satisfaction.
Selected candidate for the 2 10's subwoofer (170mm magnet) will be as shown in picture ... and can i just use prefab box or i need to calculate and build own box? (too lazy to build my own box and currently working😀) i dont mind sacrificing trunk space at the moment because i dont carry many stuffs behind the rear trunk. Box will be slot ported box regardless of prefab or custom home made box
current setup = 6inch component door mounted speaker tweeter dashboard mounted and underseat subwoofer + Android multimedia player
any opinions ? thanks
Attachments
I removed the factory 6x9's and let the bass vent thru the openings.
Porting the enclosure thru the 6x9 openings will work too.
Porting the enclosure thru the 6x9 openings will work too.
You need to calculate the box size / tuning, based on the Thiele Small parameters of the woofer. Counterfeit woofers usually do not come with a data sheet with those parameters. You could measure them yourself, it is part of the loudspeaker building experience. 😀
No. I'm letting the bass vent through the rear deck so I don't have to fold the seats down.
Attachments
I had a similar Tercel here in the US, had 6-1/2” up front, and two 6 X 9s in the rear deck.
It would dim the headlights with the volume turned up, Nakamichi PA300 in front, Soundstream D200 in the rear.
Might want to consider some electrical upgrades as well for those ten inch woofers…
It would dim the headlights with the volume turned up, Nakamichi PA300 in front, Soundstream D200 in the rear.
Might want to consider some electrical upgrades as well for those ten inch woofers…
Agreed, I'm running a 200 amp alternator. My 2 amps only total 70 amps of fusing. The car idles around 600 rpms.
how do i include the cabin gain calculation? so far i dont see any cabin gain simulation options using WINISD ... my target frequency is 40hz -3db
Cabin gain is dependent on the individual vehicle's cabin volume and shape, whether windows are open, how solid the construction, and speaker position. Without measuring the actual vehicle's transfer function, predictions are estimates, but this video should give you a rough idea on what you can do with WINISD :
Subwoofer Room/Cabin Gain: What it is and how to model it with WinISD | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Subwoofer Room/Cabin Gain: What it is and how to model it with WinISD | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
it states that cabin gain can be approximate measured by optaining the car dimension sizes ... it is true?
It is true that approximations are not measurements.
The link to measurements of transfer functions for various vehicles GM posted in #14 give an idea of how general any approximations will be.
The link to measurements of transfer functions for various vehicles GM posted in #14 give an idea of how general any approximations will be.
Measure a sealed subwoofer outside with REW.
Measure the same enclosure inside the vehicle with REW.
Overlay the 2 graphs to see the cabin gain.
Measure the same enclosure inside the vehicle with REW.
Overlay the 2 graphs to see the cabin gain.