I explained earlier that the FET footprints are actually Screw Terminal footprints. What looks like the metal back is only the termnal drawing,I thought the same thing. But if you think about how you insert them before bending, the footprint is correct
The reason for these rather big footprints is I want an easy way to connect TO-3s to the screw terminals (if I want to).
Pick up a MOSFET. Locate pin 1. Align Pin 1 on MOSFET with PIN 1 on PCB. Where is the backside of the MOSFET?I think that right now the back of the mosfet is turned on inside the pcb. I can not figure out how to fasten then to the heatsink. If the back of the mosfet would be turned to the outside then I can bend it to fasten to the heatsink. Maybe someone else can confirm it?
Where the hole is? Stop spoon feeding idiots. If they cannot tell the back from the front they should not build it. The heat sink is clearly marked on the PCB. If the mosfet is totally plastic encase, think of it, the markings are on the top face. WOW!Pick up a MOSFET. Locate pin 1. Align Pin 1 on MOSFET with PIN 1 on PCB. Where is the backside of the MOSFET?
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Sorry RM. I just find it rather silly when people who want to build something cannot first observe very carefully if they can identify a component. It takes a few seconds to look up a component on the web and pictorially imagine how you would place it in a PCB. Granted, every one is not that familiar with a PCB layout, but imagine it is a window looking through it seeing the objects behind the window. That is exactly how we design PCBs, everything is looking from the top down (through it)
I think that the overlay is probably the confusing part because it shows the mosfet mounted on top so maybe Brian is right, remove the MOSFET and just mark G D S on the board, that would force a look-up for the component, I think.
Maybe the best option is showing the bottom of the board and mosfet fitted on the bottom, not the top. Or maybe a 3D plot from an angled side view showing some of the bottom of the board.
I'm a big fan of labeling the pins. Even experienced builders can make mistakes and turn a device around. Labeling helps to prevent this or at least assist in troubleshooting.
The downside to this is that it adds time to the PCB drafting process. And introduces more items to error check before sending off for production.
The downside to this is that it adds time to the PCB drafting process. And introduces more items to error check before sending off for production.
Hi @lydlaug , how does ALLPCB handle customs for shipments to Europe? JLCPCB has a distribution center in the EU and when using them, customs, VAT etc is included already.ALLPCB
Walking through the ordering process at ALLPCB, I suspect they send from China to final destination directly, right? That would mean I would need to pay customs and VAT to the postal service on top.
Sorry RM. I just find it rather silly when people who want to build something cannot first observe very carefully if they can identify a component. It takes a few seconds to look up a component on the web and pictorially imagine how you would place it in a PCB. Granted, every one is not that familiar with a PCB layout, but imagine it is a window looking through it seeing the objects behind the window. That is exactly how we design PCBs, everything is looking from the top down (through it)
People here have varying knowledge levels and still want to enjoy building stuff. Of course there is a relationship between knowledge level and what a person should choose. But having clear marks on the PCB will help avoid errors for everyone. One of the reasons I have the values printed on my PCBs, not some random R11 or C23 stuff, which would force me to look at the schematic all the time during building.
I bought filament regulator kits from Rod Coleman, and even though e.g. I know the color codes for resistors, the documentation accompanying his kit is great, listing all resistors with colors and lots of other info.
I can recommend https://www.multi-circuit-boards.eu/en/index.html, located inside EU and price competetive with Asia.... I have already switched all my PCB needs to them....
Thanks for the pointer, @soekris .located inside EU and price competetive with Asia.
For the layout I am having for this amp, 5 PCBs (the brain-damaged JLCPCB minimum) cost about 2.5 times as much as with JLCPCB. But given it is a European (German) manufacturer, and shipping is cheaper, I likely will give it a shot.
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HiHi @lydlaug , how does ALLPCB handle customs for shipments to Europe? JLCPCB has a distribution center in the EU and when using them, customs, VAT etc is included already.
Walking through the ordering process at ALLPCB, I suspect they send from China to final destination directly, right? That would mean I would need to pay customs and VAT to the postal service on top.
Sorry, but I don`t remember what happened to the customs.
I can try to check if I can find any old documents regarding that.
It might be that they are a COEC-registered company where they add the duty (VAT) to the total and thus you do not have to pay for customs declaration.
But there is no way to avoid paying VAT as I know
But the last time I paid the customs declaration fee it was only NOK 45 (approx. 4 USD).
So it's not really a big deal.
And let me add a ling that I forgot in my previous post:
https://pcbshopper.com/
RGDS
OK, that was it for Multi-CB: "Please note: We solely sell to business customers and public institutions."
I had an electronic kit like this as well when I was about 8. I did not slate anyone for knowledge, just for observing the silkscreen and applying some common logic, hence my request to show the board at a different angle.People here have varying knowledge levels and still want to enjoy building stuff. Of course there is a relationship between knowledge level and what a person should choose. But having clear marks on the PCB will help avoid errors for everyone. One of the reasons I have the values printed on my PCBs, not some random R11 or C23 stuff, which would force me to look at the schematic all the time during building.
I bought filament regulator kits from Rod Coleman, and even though e.g. I know the color codes for resistors, the documentation accompanying his kit is great, listing all resistors with colors and lots of other info.
Obviously having clear markings on the PCB did not help you much. Mortem, I insist that your silkscreen needs to have colour coding on the resistors. 🤣 🤔
MZ (+ numbers),
I am very eager to do brain surgery as a week-end hobby. I have followed some DIYBrainSurgeon threads with dedication and a genuine interest. I am now looking for someone willing to experiment on.
[OK, that was it for Multi-CB: "Please note: We solely sell to business customers and public institutions."]
So? what has it got to do with the project, who cares, why mention it. Does it mean that you have some importance here. Why did you not join the beginning of the thread and contribute like everyone else? Are you just interested in the freebee, making and selling other's efforts. 👍 👍 👍
I am very eager to do brain surgery as a week-end hobby. I have followed some DIYBrainSurgeon threads with dedication and a genuine interest. I am now looking for someone willing to experiment on.
[OK, that was it for Multi-CB: "Please note: We solely sell to business customers and public institutions."]
So? what has it got to do with the project, who cares, why mention it. Does it mean that you have some importance here. Why did you not join the beginning of the thread and contribute like everyone else? Are you just interested in the freebee, making and selling other's efforts. 👍 👍 👍
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