It will enlarge distance between front and back, but also introduces a compression that
- increases the driver's Q (--> the driver's roll off will be pushed down in frequcency)
- in the near field "shoots" the sound out of the baffle towards the listener (increased spl and impact)
It will also function as a low pass filter, i.e. the higher frequencies will be affected in a negative way.
- increases the driver's Q (--> the driver's roll off will be pushed down in frequcency)
- in the near field "shoots" the sound out of the baffle towards the listener (increased spl and impact)
It will also function as a low pass filter, i.e. the higher frequencies will be affected in a negative way.
Interesting!! I didn't know about the Low pass, do you have a formula on how that works? or a formula?
I still need to actively filter these so all help is welcome.
I belive it can be simulated with e.g. Hornresp.
As for explanation, try google "compression chamber, low pass filther"
Best regards
Gisle
As for explanation, try google "compression chamber, low pass filther"
Best regards
Gisle
I know, it's not a build forum.
But I'm seeking advice on whether to stick with figured veneer for the top and sides of these 17.5"× 47.5" baffles, or contrast them with a straight grained hardwood, like on sale maple or red oak.
Keeping the drivers simple looking, just an Alpair 12P per side, possibly with a Fountek silver ribbon atop them, if my aging ears need them.
But I'm seeking advice on whether to stick with figured veneer for the top and sides of these 17.5"× 47.5" baffles, or contrast them with a straight grained hardwood, like on sale maple or red oak.
Keeping the drivers simple looking, just an Alpair 12P per side, possibly with a Fountek silver ribbon atop them, if my aging ears need them.
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Gorgeous piece of veneer, but I tend to try for as much symmetry in figuring / patterns on larger cabinets - something that can be hard to achieve with the highly figured or burls, but much easier with quarter/rift cut, book-matched flat sliced, or even birdseye patterns. Some of the newer engineered (reconstituted) veneers are quite interesting for that - not inexpensive however .
hifiakademie Dipol 2x15-8
i dond make these, its a german open bafle brand ....::: HIFIAkademie.de :::....
however I build a clone
these use a comercial diy drivers
-1xTang band w8-1772
-2xGladen RS 15 Free-Air
so you can build a clone 100% with the same drivers
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hifiakademie Dipol 2x15-8
i dond make these, its a german open bafle brand ....::: HIFIAkademie.de :::....
however I build a clone
these use a comercial diy drivers
-1xTang band w8-1772
-2xGladen RS 15 Free-Air
so you can build a clone 100% with the same drivers
WOW!
Share some photos of your creation please.
I am seriously thinking of trying on aperture controlled (or SLOB whichever you are comfortable with) OB. I have made on Ripole sub and OB mid/high. Itching to make something a little bit different.
I shall try combining a FR with a tweeter as a co-axial mid/high, where the low frequencies shall be played through SLOB way.
I have been thinking of trying to coaxial too. the car-audio coaxial often work as infinite baffles so that could be used in open baffle, the trouble is that most car audio drivers are rubbish, but there are exceptions.
This coaxial attracts me, PC 165F - Focal I think i'll give it a chance
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
sorry for my bad English
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hope these are qualified as OB 🙂
Tannoy Brute Force OB ….. now Absolute WAF Tannoy OB | Zen Mod Blog
Tannoy Brute Force OB ….. now Absolute WAF Tannoy OB | Zen Mod Blog
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Less than ultimate open baffle
There are some beautifully executed projects in this thread.
This is not one of those!
Recently we were getting rid of a wooden file cabinet. Once it was disassembled I thought this is everything I need to make my next prototype.
The design concepts are based on the work of John K. The bass is a damped U-frame with 10 Inch peerless XLS woofer. The faux wood sides were the file drawer fronts, leaving the handles on makes them easy to move out from the wall.
The upper mid and tweeter are an 18sound 6nd430 and TG9 fullrange, 1KHz 4th order acoustic crossover via minisharc DSP
Sounds better than it looks.🙂
-Dave
There are some beautifully executed projects in this thread.
This is not one of those!
Recently we were getting rid of a wooden file cabinet. Once it was disassembled I thought this is everything I need to make my next prototype.
The design concepts are based on the work of John K. The bass is a damped U-frame with 10 Inch peerless XLS woofer. The faux wood sides were the file drawer fronts, leaving the handles on makes them easy to move out from the wall.
The upper mid and tweeter are an 18sound 6nd430 and TG9 fullrange, 1KHz 4th order acoustic crossover via minisharc DSP
Sounds better than it looks.🙂
-Dave
Attachments
I read that the alpha does not have a accurate sound. I thought about using loading aperture kilomax 15 with some vst EQ
I have not yet drawn the coaxial, it's going on top😀
I read that the alpha does not have a accurate sound. I thought about using loading aperture kilomax 15 with some vst EQ
I have not yet drawn the coaxial, it's going on top😀
Hi Orlando,
is there a ration between woofer surface and slot?
or a formula?
or graphs?
thanks
Gerrit
maybe better use a pair... beta is a nice alternative , take a look at slob by Nelson Pass