Price will be EUR 50.00 ex. VAT, and transport.
Softstart module to keep transformer inrush currents at low levels , saving fuses and increases component lifespan. Features are:
► switches at mains zero crossing.
► max. current 16A RMS.
► supports 115/230Vac.
► Temperature protection by PTC (not included).
► Dual LED to indicate standby/on (not included).
► Possibility to use a low voltage switch/pushbutton.
Next week we will open the webshop.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Softstart module to keep transformer inrush currents at low levels , saving fuses and increases component lifespan. Features are:
► switches at mains zero crossing.
► max. current 16A RMS.
► supports 115/230Vac.
► Temperature protection by PTC (not included).
► Dual LED to indicate standby/on (not included).
► Possibility to use a low voltage switch/pushbutton.
Next week we will open the webshop.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Hi Guys,
Can't seem to find the info anywhere so here it is:
When using a mono UCD400AD configuration with a 500VA 2x40v transformer + 2 x 63V 10.000 uF Slit Foils, what's the best rectifier that I must get?
Just a KBPC3502 35A/200V one?
Secondly, I can't find any info on what type of resistor/diode/cap I need to place over the rectifier....I'm a bit of a newby on this but I hope that you guys are willing to point me in the right direction.
Cheers,
Richard
Few questions for Bruno or Jan-Peter,
Can I use one softstart for 2 500VA transformers or do I need one softstart for each?
Does the new softstart that Hypex offers accept a trigger input from my preamp?
Do you have dimensions or a datasheet for the softstart? I am planning my cabinet layout...
Cheers guys !
Can't seem to find the info anywhere so here it is:
When using a mono UCD400AD configuration with a 500VA 2x40v transformer + 2 x 63V 10.000 uF Slit Foils, what's the best rectifier that I must get?
Just a KBPC3502 35A/200V one?
Secondly, I can't find any info on what type of resistor/diode/cap I need to place over the rectifier....I'm a bit of a newby on this but I hope that you guys are willing to point me in the right direction.
Cheers,
Richard
Few questions for Bruno or Jan-Peter,
Can I use one softstart for 2 500VA transformers or do I need one softstart for each?
Does the new softstart that Hypex offers accept a trigger input from my preamp?
Do you have dimensions or a datasheet for the softstart? I am planning my cabinet layout...
Cheers guys !
Richard,
I'm using a KBPC3502 block on a +/-300VA classic transformer (no toroid) with 2x22.000uF and finally 2xUcD400 behind it. I didn't put caps over the bridge, just straight rectifying into the 2 big caps. No "bleeders" either, the UcD's keep asking for current, even in standby. the 22.000uF's are below 8v after about 2 minutes into standby with the mains off.
Those puppies handle 35A.
Doesn't even break a sweat, cool to the touch. Once I saw a blue spark come out of one of the pins when switching my amp on, but that was probably my fault... The switch used before the transformer is old(?), don't know why it happend...
Still works fine today!
I'm going to ask the dumbest question of the day though: with faston clamps, should one solder the cable to the faston or not?
I'm using a KBPC3502 block on a +/-300VA classic transformer (no toroid) with 2x22.000uF and finally 2xUcD400 behind it. I didn't put caps over the bridge, just straight rectifying into the 2 big caps. No "bleeders" either, the UcD's keep asking for current, even in standby. the 22.000uF's are below 8v after about 2 minutes into standby with the mains off.
Those puppies handle 35A.
Doesn't even break a sweat, cool to the touch. Once I saw a blue spark come out of one of the pins when switching my amp on, but that was probably my fault... The switch used before the transformer is old(?), don't know why it happend...
Still works fine today!
I'm going to ask the dumbest question of the day though: with faston clamps, should one solder the cable to the faston or not?
Hi Yves,
Thanks for your reply!
So your advice is to use a regular bridge without any caps or resistors?
Any other views on this or am I touching upon the snubberizing theme here where views seem to be contradicting?
Shouldn't I drain the caps in some fashion during standby?
Secondly, what's the view on suffcient caps for the UCD400.
I had planned to use 2x10.000 Slit foils per mono channel coupled to a 500VA 2x40 torroid. You seem to use 22000 per channel - some people even 40000 per channel. What's best?
Cheers
Thanks for your reply!
So your advice is to use a regular bridge without any caps or resistors?
Any other views on this or am I touching upon the snubberizing theme here where views seem to be contradicting?
Shouldn't I drain the caps in some fashion during standby?
Secondly, what's the view on suffcient caps for the UCD400.
I had planned to use 2x10.000 Slit foils per mono channel coupled to a 500VA 2x40 torroid. You seem to use 22000 per channel - some people even 40000 per channel. What's best?
Cheers
Richard,
No, I don't advice the regular bridge - but this is my test setup, it's running like this for months now. Audio quality is just fine! I'll replace my full PS with the Hypex HG PS.
snubberizing is adding small caps to the large cans for ESR issues; afaik this is not needed on UcD's, as there are small caps on the UcD board to handle this.
Draining the caps: Probably yes, but in my experience, in a few minutes, the caps are drained by the UcD's (even in standby)
My cap size is 44.000uF for BOTH channels together, 2 x 22.000uF caps for both modules.
Cap size was commented by Bruno: UCD400: 8250uF per rail per channel for 8 ohm use, double that for 4 ohms. He did mention that this is the most extreme case setup - he uses a lot less on his own test setups. I believe it's in this very thread!
Hypex seems to go for 10.000uf per rail per channel - hence the 20.000uF on the standard supply (single UcD) and the 40.000uF on the HG (double UcD) - it's my belief that you easily could add a third channel to that and have plenty left in somewhat normal circumstances.
For example, my 5 channel Yamaha receiver has to do with less than 40.000uF for 5 channels, and that's class AB power......
As for transformers, well... Hypex/Bruno states you can go to party levels all night on 500VA into 2 modules, no problem... 800 and something VA would cover the maximum possible power draw from the modules, something that never ever could happen, unless you enjoy full power 20.000uF sine waves or something... I calculated this once but misplaced it, sorry.
No, I don't advice the regular bridge - but this is my test setup, it's running like this for months now. Audio quality is just fine! I'll replace my full PS with the Hypex HG PS.
snubberizing is adding small caps to the large cans for ESR issues; afaik this is not needed on UcD's, as there are small caps on the UcD board to handle this.
Draining the caps: Probably yes, but in my experience, in a few minutes, the caps are drained by the UcD's (even in standby)
My cap size is 44.000uF for BOTH channels together, 2 x 22.000uF caps for both modules.
Cap size was commented by Bruno: UCD400: 8250uF per rail per channel for 8 ohm use, double that for 4 ohms. He did mention that this is the most extreme case setup - he uses a lot less on his own test setups. I believe it's in this very thread!
Hypex seems to go for 10.000uf per rail per channel - hence the 20.000uF on the standard supply (single UcD) and the 40.000uF on the HG (double UcD) - it's my belief that you easily could add a third channel to that and have plenty left in somewhat normal circumstances.
For example, my 5 channel Yamaha receiver has to do with less than 40.000uF for 5 channels, and that's class AB power......
As for transformers, well... Hypex/Bruno states you can go to party levels all night on 500VA into 2 modules, no problem... 800 and something VA would cover the maximum possible power draw from the modules, something that never ever could happen, unless you enjoy full power 20.000uF sine waves or something... I calculated this once but misplaced it, sorry.
Richard,
Sorry I wasn't being clear:
I don't say that the bridge is the end-all-best-mother-of-all quality solution, it is not - however, it works as it should - a lot of people use these blocks (1 or 2 of them) in their solutions, some use caps over it, some don't.
The Bridge will work fine. If you look for the last 5% of quality, look into other solutions.
If you ask me what is "the best" solution, then I say: I don't know - I haven't tested all the solutions.
I suggest you download the entire thread - everything has been talked about over and over again!
Sorry I wasn't being clear:
I don't say that the bridge is the end-all-best-mother-of-all quality solution, it is not - however, it works as it should - a lot of people use these blocks (1 or 2 of them) in their solutions, some use caps over it, some don't.
The Bridge will work fine. If you look for the last 5% of quality, look into other solutions.
If you ask me what is "the best" solution, then I say: I don't know - I haven't tested all the solutions.
I suggest you download the entire thread - everything has been talked about over and over again!
Can somebody shed some light on the necessity of DC-protection? What's the likelyhood that there's DC on the speaker output?
I am really keen to build a power supply but there are a few things that put me off.
1) What's the proper way to implement the rectifier with coupling caps?
1) How do I implement DC protection?
Should this have been mentioned before then forgive me. Quite a lot of answers are difficult to understand because the writer expects a high level of in depth knowledge..
"Worst" case scenario is to buy a Hypex HG power supply...anyway your advice is very much appreciated.
Cheers
Richard
P.S: Jan-Peter, do you have a datasheet on the softstart unit yet (or at least the size of the board..)
I am really keen to build a power supply but there are a few things that put me off.
1) What's the proper way to implement the rectifier with coupling caps?
1) How do I implement DC protection?
Should this have been mentioned before then forgive me. Quite a lot of answers are difficult to understand because the writer expects a high level of in depth knowledge..
"Worst" case scenario is to buy a Hypex HG power supply...anyway your advice is very much appreciated.
Cheers
Richard
P.S: Jan-Peter, do you have a datasheet on the softstart unit yet (or at least the size of the board..)
Richard,
About the need of DC protection, it's essentially a safety feature to protect the speaker. It should be triggered whenever the output of the amplifier presents a DC signal, and so it will avoid damaging the drivers on your speaker. I would not say it is necessary, but most people with expensive speakers or drivers will consider it worth the trouble. I am doing it for my orions, since the drivers cost about 150 bucks each... much more expensive than adding the DC protection...
1) It depends on the rectifier, i guess. If you use standard diodes or rectfying bridges, the recomendation is to have capacitors at the secondaries as well as over each diode of the bridge, to reduce switching noise. If you use a bridge with soft-recovery, you may be able to drop the capacitors over each diode, but the one at each secondary still seems to be recomended. I must say I have no idea about the real audio impact of such filtering, since my orions aren't built yet, and my previous speaker would be perfectly fine with a minisystem...
2)Theres the Velleman kit, there is the ESP PCB that requires further engineering to make the relays compatible, and there is the wnaudio module, which I was not able to buy.... I am trying the ESP module, but to tell you the truth, it's almost making me give up and buy a Velleman module... Which i don't like because of the relays used...
Allan
About the need of DC protection, it's essentially a safety feature to protect the speaker. It should be triggered whenever the output of the amplifier presents a DC signal, and so it will avoid damaging the drivers on your speaker. I would not say it is necessary, but most people with expensive speakers or drivers will consider it worth the trouble. I am doing it for my orions, since the drivers cost about 150 bucks each... much more expensive than adding the DC protection...
1) It depends on the rectifier, i guess. If you use standard diodes or rectfying bridges, the recomendation is to have capacitors at the secondaries as well as over each diode of the bridge, to reduce switching noise. If you use a bridge with soft-recovery, you may be able to drop the capacitors over each diode, but the one at each secondary still seems to be recomended. I must say I have no idea about the real audio impact of such filtering, since my orions aren't built yet, and my previous speaker would be perfectly fine with a minisystem...
2)Theres the Velleman kit, there is the ESP PCB that requires further engineering to make the relays compatible, and there is the wnaudio module, which I was not able to buy.... I am trying the ESP module, but to tell you the truth, it's almost making me give up and buy a Velleman module... Which i don't like because of the relays used...
Allan
Hi,
To add to that reply which was a good one, the odds are the same as the odds of having a blown output stage, as that's the kind of DC you need to worry about, providing you do everything else right.
Fuses are cheap and easy, maybe not ideal but they work.
If you're that unsure of yourself and just want an amp buying the supply is a good option but if you want to get your hands dirty and learn a few things you can experiment building your own and try all the little variations you've read about, personally I think that way is alot more fun.
Regards,
Chris
To add to that reply which was a good one, the odds are the same as the odds of having a blown output stage, as that's the kind of DC you need to worry about, providing you do everything else right.
Fuses are cheap and easy, maybe not ideal but they work.
If you're that unsure of yourself and just want an amp buying the supply is a good option but if you want to get your hands dirty and learn a few things you can experiment building your own and try all the little variations you've read about, personally I think that way is alot more fun.
Regards,
Chris