I currently have a set of Zappulse monoblocks that are giving me problems with my Audio Aero Cap MKI CD-player. When the Zaps are connected with source signal either directly to the AE or trough a preamp, the AE will not track any CDs. This is because of some kind of backfeeding noise from the Zaps. So far I have had no luck in solving the problem.
So I thought that maybe I should try the UcD400 modules instead if they work.
Can anyone tell me, if the UcD have similar problems?
Also for the Zaps I'm using 800VA 2x42V transformers, is this to much for the UcD400?
So I thought that maybe I should try the UcD400 modules instead if they work.
Can anyone tell me, if the UcD have similar problems?
Also for the Zaps I'm using 800VA 2x42V transformers, is this to much for the UcD400?
I have the zaps as well, and have various problems with whines and hums. Also they are getting very hot, and the suspect is some kind of ultrasonic interference (still happens with the inputs shorted though).
Your 42V transformer will just be ok for the UCD. Depends what it rectifies to though. In theory it will be about 57V in most of europe, but here in London the voltage is much higher, and it seems to be about 63V rectified (which is the absolute top limit for the UCD400)
Just measure what the current PS is kicking out. You can use your zaps PS just as it is you want to.
Good luck
Ed W
Your 42V transformer will just be ok for the UCD. Depends what it rectifies to though. In theory it will be about 57V in most of europe, but here in London the voltage is much higher, and it seems to be about 63V rectified (which is the absolute top limit for the UCD400)
Just measure what the current PS is kicking out. You can use your zaps PS just as it is you want to.
Good luck
Ed W
ZPascalZ said:
I have UCD180 amps and don`t have the problem that you have with the ZAPs. However, I have used a couple of ZAPs sometime ago and did not have any problem with my CD player either. The UCD modules seem to emit very low amounts of EMI/RFI, probably much less than the ZAPs, so less problems expected.
Best regards
Gertjan
Hansen,
The overvoltage protection is still at 63V.
We did not have heard any of this problems, did you wire everything correct as recommended by the manufacture?
When the DC voltage is around 60VDC (unloaded) you can use the 800VA 2x42V transformer. I would first try it, when it not work you can always buy later new transformers. The amps will go in overvoltage protection when the votlage is to high.
Ewildgoose,
What is your problem with the wiring of the powersupply?
Regards,
Jan-Peter
The overvoltage protection is still at 63V.
We did not have heard any of this problems, did you wire everything correct as recommended by the manufacture?
When the DC voltage is around 60VDC (unloaded) you can use the 800VA 2x42V transformer. I would first try it, when it not work you can always buy later new transformers. The amps will go in overvoltage protection when the votlage is to high.
Ewildgoose,
What is your problem with the wiring of the powersupply?
Regards,
Jan-Peter
ZPascalZ said:
Hi Pascal,
I have not done a lot of listening tests with the ZAPs. For my application in an active 3-way system, they have too much noise for my taste to directly drive tweeters and midrange drivers. The UcD180 modules that I now use for mid and high are very/very silent. My noise level is now limited by the preamp, not by the poweramp. With the ZAPpulse, the noise level was poweramp limited.
Others have likely done far more extensive listening tests comparing ZAPpulse and UcD.
Best regards
Gertjan
Jan-Peter said:
Hi, depends exactly what you mean, I posted a question in a different thread about wiring up one of LCAudios Zappulse PS boards, but I seem to have blown the board... Not sure why though - it is wired to accept two secondaries for normal supply, but I wired one secondary in parallel and I can't see why this would be a problem...
As for the Hypex stuff (ie relevant to THIS thread), I just wanted to check that:
a) the rectifier "+" marking with the pin at an angle is the main +ve DC output.
b) the bypass caps go from each ac input to the DC output.
c) Do you recommend wiring in all 4 bypass caps? Earlier in this thread (or perhaps the UCD180 thread?) it was suggested that only putting bypass to the -ve DC terminal gave least switching noise...? d) In any case, assuming no oscilloscope here, is there a systematic method I could try to discover which was the best arrangement? What am I looking for anyway? Least hiss from the tweeter on idle?
I'm also curious as to how people wire up the PS to get min length of cables. For example if I place the rectifier between the modules and the caps then I can have power leads of only 1 cm or so! However, would I be better to have the rectifier much further away from the module than this? For example, placed in a series, perhaps rectifier, then caps, then module...?
My apologies for the basic questions. I'm sure there are other inexperienced builders like me interested in these answers as well though?
Thanks
Ed,
Both the Zappulse and the UcD are half-bridge Class-D amplifiers and need a positive, ground and negative powersupply. The Zappulse powersupply uses two rectifiers, whereby the zero voltage is created after the recitifier and between the two capacitors. You cannot create from one secondairy a symmetrical powersupply! You need always TWO secondairies, this is the fault in your setup.
I woudn't make it so complicated with the length of the wires. Place the powersupply borad nea to the transformer and wires the high voltage rails from the powersupply board to the UcD or Zappulse amplifiers.
In the attachment a setup for the UcD180.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Both the Zappulse and the UcD are half-bridge Class-D amplifiers and need a positive, ground and negative powersupply. The Zappulse powersupply uses two rectifiers, whereby the zero voltage is created after the recitifier and between the two capacitors. You cannot create from one secondairy a symmetrical powersupply! You need always TWO secondairies, this is the fault in your setup.
I woudn't make it so complicated with the length of the wires. Place the powersupply borad nea to the transformer and wires the high voltage rails from the powersupply board to the UcD or Zappulse amplifiers.
In the attachment a setup for the UcD180.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
OK, thanks. Yes, I understand the picture fine thanks. Thanks also for your comment on the Zappulse PS!
So basically it's better to keep the high voltage stuff like the rectifier well away from the board, rather than worrying about ultrashort cables! Good to know. Thanks
You didn't comment on the small bypass caps, so I'm going to assume to start by wiring all 4 up from each AC input lines to the DC output lines (ie across each diode effectively). I will use this as the base position and see how I get on. Please someone point out if this is a mistake!
So basically it's better to keep the high voltage stuff like the rectifier well away from the board, rather than worrying about ultrashort cables! Good to know. Thanks
You didn't comment on the small bypass caps, so I'm going to assume to start by wiring all 4 up from each AC input lines to the DC output lines (ie across each diode effectively). I will use this as the base position and see how I get on. Please someone point out if this is a mistake!
Jan-Peter said:
OK, I just studied your diagram some more and realised that I don't in fact understand it properly... I see now that you use two secondaries going into the one rectifier - correct?
The secondaries appear to be connected in series, but I don't understand that part of the diagram in the middle? How does one practically use the two secondaries here?
OK, so coming back to the real problem. I was going to try to build dual mono supplies for my UCD, but I only have a single torroid with dual secondaries. So, assuming that I have 2 rectifiers and 4 10,000 caps that I bought from you, how would you suggest that I best wire these?
a) Keep a single PS
b) Keep a single rectifier, take two lines from the DC out to each pair of caps, and from each pair of caps on to the modules
c) Some design involving paralleling the outputs from the transformer to two rectifiers....?
Thoughts on design appreciated, but mainly I realise that I have no idea how to wire the two secondaries to a single power supply now..
Thanks for answers to this most basic question!
Read 'em many times! Don't know how to use them though...
My issue was a failure to interpret whether a dual mono supply is possible, or desirable with only a single torroid that has only dual secondaries...
I had assumed that it would be, but I'm now a) not sure how to wire up the two secondaries (will have to reread the article now to see if it's covered there), b) whether rectifiying the same windings more than once brings any practical benefits...
Thanks
Edit: Also, whilst I get what that link tries to tell us about power supply improvements, the vibes I am getting from Bruno suggest that this is of minimal benefit for the UCD modules? Bruno, could you comment on where the bang for buck is on these designs, with respect to the UCD?
My issue was a failure to interpret whether a dual mono supply is possible, or desirable with only a single torroid that has only dual secondaries...
I had assumed that it would be, but I'm now a) not sure how to wire up the two secondaries (will have to reread the article now to see if it's covered there), b) whether rectifiying the same windings more than once brings any practical benefits...
Thanks
Edit: Also, whilst I get what that link tries to tell us about power supply improvements, the vibes I am getting from Bruno suggest that this is of minimal benefit for the UCD modules? Bruno, could you comment on where the bang for buck is on these designs, with respect to the UCD?
I briefly tried the UcD400's with a very quick (dodgy) wiring on a piece of wood. I went from dvd player to the P3A dac via spdif. From the DAC I wired some linear 10 turn pots to the UcD400's (I had these pots lying around for the last 15 years with no use, I will buy appropiate pot). My speakers are Sonus Faber Concerto.
Due to circumstances I only listened to one track. It was pretty impressive. I only wired one 6800uF capacitor per rail for the test, and in my hurry I wired one the wrong way
I cooked it alittle but it still works (will replace, it doesn't hold it's charge very well now). The last time I listed to my speakers was nearly two months back when I borrowed a i5 integrated moon (simaudio), it retails for around $6000 Australian, and from memory, I don't think the i5 did anything different to the UcD's. Yes the UcD's sound great.
I got to go away for work for a couple of weeks, but when I get back I will wire properly in enclosure and take them to the hifi shop I borrowed the i5 from. The guy there is interested in listening to my finished product. I will probably compare to the simaudio mono's w5 maybe (from memory he had those on the floor)
Due to circumstances I only listened to one track. It was pretty impressive. I only wired one 6800uF capacitor per rail for the test, and in my hurry I wired one the wrong way
I cooked it alittle but it still works (will replace, it doesn't hold it's charge very well now). The last time I listed to my speakers was nearly two months back when I borrowed a i5 integrated moon (simaudio), it retails for around $6000 Australian, and from memory, I don't think the i5 did anything different to the UcD's. Yes the UcD's sound great.I got to go away for work for a couple of weeks, but when I get back I will wire properly in enclosure and take them to the hifi shop I borrowed the i5 from. The guy there is interested in listening to my finished product. I will probably compare to the simaudio mono's w5 maybe (from memory he had those on the floor)
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi,
I have a very basic question. In the PSU-schematic I got from Jan Peter there is (of course) a Ground. It is needed to produce a positive and negative V. And it is needed to connect to /ON to let the module work.
Where do I put this Ground. Do I connect it to the encasement? Or direct to the ground of the 230V input? I do not have a grounded wall socket. Is that a problem?
Frans
I have a very basic question. In the PSU-schematic I got from Jan Peter there is (of course) a Ground. It is needed to produce a positive and negative V. And it is needed to connect to /ON to let the module work.
Where do I put this Ground. Do I connect it to the encasement? Or direct to the ground of the 230V input? I do not have a grounded wall socket. Is that a problem?
Frans
The ground is the point between the two caps. It is a virtual ground (I can't talk authoritively since I just made this same mistake myself...)
You should I guess (please someone correct me), consider grounding this to chassis ground at a single spot. And some people then also tie this to the mains earth point (you have an electrical hazard otherwise I think?).
I think that if know what you are doing, then you can setup a new earth between all the chassis of your other electrical bits and then ground this via your own earth point dug into the ground - I think this needs to be done carefully though?
You should I guess (please someone correct me), consider grounding this to chassis ground at a single spot. And some people then also tie this to the mains earth point (you have an electrical hazard otherwise I think?).
I think that if know what you are doing, then you can setup a new earth between all the chassis of your other electrical bits and then ground this via your own earth point dug into the ground - I think this needs to be done carefully though?