I'd imagine that's 46Vdc under load, at 10% mains overvoltage unloaded it might trip protection. Have to try it and see. I have 31Vac secondaries and my rails are 47Vdc unloaded.
If it does trip it won't be by much. I can throw some bleeder resistors accross the caps to maintain a slight load.
But is 500VA enough for 2 channels?
But is 500VA enough for 2 channels?
It's what I'm using, stays nice and clean right up to clipping, haven't been able to warm up the transformer yet.
Hello everybody, I'm new to this board and have a UcD180 question:
What is the power consumption of the UcD180 module with zero signal. with 1 Watt output and with 10 Watt output? Has anybody ever measured this? I know that the efficiency is really good at full load, but how about at these lower signal levels?
If I use no heatsink (i.e. just the blue heatspreader) in a breadboard setup, prior to building it into a case, can I safely operate the module at low output levels up to about 1 Watt?
I did a search on these questions and so far found nothing. Sorry if I missed something and these questions have been answerde before.
What is the power consumption of the UcD180 module with zero signal. with 1 Watt output and with 10 Watt output? Has anybody ever measured this? I know that the efficiency is really good at full load, but how about at these lower signal levels?
If I use no heatsink (i.e. just the blue heatspreader) in a breadboard setup, prior to building it into a case, can I safely operate the module at low output levels up to about 1 Watt?
I did a search on these questions and so far found nothing. Sorry if I missed something and these questions have been answerde before.
I had the modules on for about a minute without a sink (yes, yes, I know, JP told me not to 😛) running very low levels (surely less than a watt) and things heated up so fast I turned it off very quickly.
Just grab some piece of alu, doesn't matter what it is and screw the UCD's to it - don't take the risk - don't forget that a few centigrades of temperature more have very negative effects on the lifetime of your electronics.
Just grab some piece of alu, doesn't matter what it is and screw the UCD's to it - don't take the risk - don't forget that a few centigrades of temperature more have very negative effects on the lifetime of your electronics.
Think you should be alright to do a quick test with the 180 (not 400) in this way, but it just takes a small piece of aluminum to be safe.
Thanks to everyone for your advice. As you suggest, I will attach a piece of aluminum during tryout, just to be on the safe side.
In my UcD180, the PCB is not flush with the blue T-heatspreader; it extends just a little bit, maybe 0.5 mm. Is this common? Can the PCB just be sanded off a little bit to allow a flush mount to the side panel of the case? Or is there a risk to damage something?
I could use a thin 0.5mm thick aluminum "in-between-plate", but this would create an additional thermal junction. What do you think?
In my UcD180, the PCB is not flush with the blue T-heatspreader; it extends just a little bit, maybe 0.5 mm. Is this common? Can the PCB just be sanded off a little bit to allow a flush mount to the side panel of the case? Or is there a risk to damage something?
I could use a thin 0.5mm thick aluminum "in-between-plate", but this would create an additional thermal junction. What do you think?
Hi!
I`m planning to build a UCD 180 amp and I`m wondering if someone could help me with pictures of wirering of the power supply. I probably would be able to figure out this from Hypex but I think it would be faster with a little help.
Cheers
I`m planning to build a UCD 180 amp and I`m wondering if someone could help me with pictures of wirering of the power supply. I probably would be able to figure out this from Hypex but I think it would be faster with a little help.
Cheers
Are you buying the supply from Hypex or building your own? The diagrams included with their supply will be what you should be going by if that's the route you're taking.
Hi classd4sure,
I`m going for an all Hypex solution for sure, due to that I`m a beginner in this area. Just that I`m a little skittish of my abilities of reading diagrams. Just need a little reassurement of getting it right.🙂
I`m going for an all Hypex solution for sure, due to that I`m a beginner in this area. Just that I`m a little skittish of my abilities of reading diagrams. Just need a little reassurement of getting it right.🙂
Follow their diagrams to the letter, ask questions on anything you're unsure of, test the supply without the modules first in case you messed up somewhere it won't fry them, double and triple check the modules are connected to the rails with correct polarity before you test it with them installed because reverse polarity will smoke them and you'll be out of luck for them.
It pays to take a break from for at least 20 minutes or more, if you're tired, sleep on it, then double check all the wiring again before you test anything. It's hard to do that when all you want to do is test it out but it can help catch oversites you'd normally miss.
It pays to take a break from for at least 20 minutes or more, if you're tired, sleep on it, then double check all the wiring again before you test anything. It's hard to do that when all you want to do is test it out but it can help catch oversites you'd normally miss.
I would like to put together a 7 channel amp using UCD180 modules but haven't had time to look through all information available in this thread yet. Is there a webpage anywhere outlining this? I'm interested in finding a suitable power supply diagram, soft start circuit, etc.
Also, instead of a soft start, could a separate relay be used to power up each amp in sequence so that no huge amount of power is needed at once....or is it the power supply itself that is causing the potentially damaging surge?
I'm looking to build something that will out-perform commercial 7-channel amps in the $1000 range. Will I be able to put this together for under $1000?
thanks for any info,
Greg
Also, instead of a soft start, could a separate relay be used to power up each amp in sequence so that no huge amount of power is needed at once....or is it the power supply itself that is causing the potentially damaging surge?
I'm looking to build something that will out-perform commercial 7-channel amps in the $1000 range. Will I be able to put this together for under $1000?
thanks for any info,
Greg
UcD question
Greg,
It is not reasonable to expect someone else to do your home work. From your questions you are showing that you need the information/education provided in reading the whole link. All these questions are answered and some many times.
This gives you the opportunity to learn from others mistakes and will save you time in the long run. It also means you will have a better amp when you are done.
Roger
Greg,
It is not reasonable to expect someone else to do your home work. From your questions you are showing that you need the information/education provided in reading the whole link. All these questions are answered and some many times.
This gives you the opportunity to learn from others mistakes and will save you time in the long run. It also means you will have a better amp when you are done.
Roger
I was hoping someone had already condensed the necessary info and made it a bit more accessible. I know I'm looking for the easy way out.
7 modules, 2 800VA transformers, and a chassis come to around $800 (plus shipping). A little over $1000 isn't too far out of the ballpark is it?
7 modules, 2 800VA transformers, and a chassis come to around $800 (plus shipping). A little over $1000 isn't too far out of the ballpark is it?
Probably with shipping /customs you're already over $1000, oops. Are you really going to squeeze it all into a single case? How about capacitors, rectifiers, soft starts, switches, connectors, wires.. Even with the worst possible parts you've shot your budjet in a big way. You'll have to do your own cost analysis, this isnt' really even a question you should have to ask.
The better parts which are worth buying cost a significant deal more as well. Anyway there's just no substitute for doing your homework, especially if you want a half decent outcome, unless you just buy it off one of the commercial guys but .... you're taking your chances there too I'm afraid.. and it'll cost you more than a grand by far.
If your budget is a grand, why not start with one good stereo amp, learn as you go, build it up from there later on?
BTW, without having a buyers guide handy, I'd make the bold statement that $1K is about the cheapest of off the shelf 7 channel amps? Cheap sound anyway, but I'm sorry to say you'll still really have to do some homework if you want to better them, even with these modules.
The better parts which are worth buying cost a significant deal more as well. Anyway there's just no substitute for doing your homework, especially if you want a half decent outcome, unless you just buy it off one of the commercial guys but .... you're taking your chances there too I'm afraid.. and it'll cost you more than a grand by far.
If your budget is a grand, why not start with one good stereo amp, learn as you go, build it up from there later on?
BTW, without having a buyers guide handy, I'd make the bold statement that $1K is about the cheapest of off the shelf 7 channel amps? Cheap sound anyway, but I'm sorry to say you'll still really have to do some homework if you want to better them, even with these modules.