Great minds think alike. 😀
I'm thinking my psu will deliver +/-45VDC so that will be the absolute limit for the output.
Amplification is x4.5 so I'll need 10V input to really max it out.
I've ran some fast and dirty sims and a balanced Zen pre seems to deliver this even though it doesn't have particularly low output impedance.
Distortion might be an issue but I doubt it'll be noticable?
A DC-free input is a no-brainer. 🙂
I'm thinking my psu will deliver +/-45VDC so that will be the absolute limit for the output.
Amplification is x4.5 so I'll need 10V input to really max it out.
I've ran some fast and dirty sims and a balanced Zen pre seems to deliver this even though it doesn't have particularly low output impedance.
Distortion might be an issue but I doubt it'll be noticable?
A DC-free input is a no-brainer. 🙂
Hi,
Finished my Ucd180st amplifier but I have some hum/buzzing in one channel. Should I connect XLR pin 1 to chassis? Or is there something that seems wrong in my setup.
Finished my Ucd180st amplifier but I have some hum/buzzing in one channel. Should I connect XLR pin 1 to chassis? Or is there something that seems wrong in my setup.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hypex recommends balanced input wiring (XLR) and connecting the ground (pin1 ) to chassis:
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/wiring.pdf
However, I'm using unbalanced (RCA) and their recommendation is the same, connecting ground to chassis with the exception of disconnecting mains earth (and using double insulated wiring):
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/earth_appnote.pdf
Now this looks ok for monoblock kind of applications. However, I have four UcD amps in the same box with single PSU (using toroidal transformer) I can't get rid of all of the buzz. Bruno mentioned "pseudo-differential" RCA input wiring in the latter application note but doesn't go further. Has anybody used anything like that? I assume you need to separate the RCA ground from chassis in that kind of wiring. My first attempt on this box was something like it but it didn't work properly (amp was quiet only when nothing was connected).
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/wiring.pdf
However, I'm using unbalanced (RCA) and their recommendation is the same, connecting ground to chassis with the exception of disconnecting mains earth (and using double insulated wiring):
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/appnotes/earth_appnote.pdf
Now this looks ok for monoblock kind of applications. However, I have four UcD amps in the same box with single PSU (using toroidal transformer) I can't get rid of all of the buzz. Bruno mentioned "pseudo-differential" RCA input wiring in the latter application note but doesn't go further. Has anybody used anything like that? I assume you need to separate the RCA ground from chassis in that kind of wiring. My first attempt on this box was something like it but it didn't work properly (amp was quiet only when nothing was connected).
I have set up a stereo pair of UcDs in an unbalanced connection without any issues. The only difference or rather addition was a double-gang pot to act as a volume control between the RCA jacks on the chassis and the UcD inputs.
If you have XLR inputs on your amp enclosure, make up some RCA to XLR connections, linking pin 1 (ground) and pin 3 (cold leg) together at the RCA end. Ensure the XLR is wired with the three (2 + screen) wires at the XLR end.
It's also worth reading up the notes and papers about the infamous pin1 / ground loop issues on Rane's website: http://www.rane.com/pdf/ranenotes/Pin_1_Revisited.pdf
Also (taken from the NCore400 notes), here's how it looks:
Ok, thanks. Just found the semi-floating wiring also on NC400 datasheet, on page 14:
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/NC400_datasheet.pdf
There the RCA sockets are insulated from chassis, the connector ground is connected to chassis via 100 ohm || 100 nF circuit.
http://www.hypex.nl/docs/NC400_datasheet.pdf
There the RCA sockets are insulated from chassis, the connector ground is connected to chassis via 100 ohm || 100 nF circuit.
Hi guys,
Got a ucd180hg stereo amp from friend... Do some checking on the dc offset at speaker output; 2.8mV and 28mV.... I like to do some adjustment and like to confirm which blue burn pot must I adjust? The one on the small square board mounted to the main ucd180 module or the other blue pot on the module itself?
Anyone can help?
Got a ucd180hg stereo amp from friend... Do some checking on the dc offset at speaker output; 2.8mV and 28mV.... I like to do some adjustment and like to confirm which blue burn pot must I adjust? The one on the small square board mounted to the main ucd180 module or the other blue pot on the module itself?
Anyone can help?
Hi-
After moving out of country some years ago I put my audio electronics in storage and I just took them out last week.
I have 4 UcD180 modules on bi-amped servo controlled speakers and I am looking to move the electronics from a single enclosure to separate mono enclosures at the speakers. I am using a linear PS in the combined chassis and would like to move to SMPS in the mono enclosures. But I need +/- 15vdc also for the servo circuit.
Does anyone know of an SMPS that will supply the +/- 50VDC for the UcD180's AND the +/- 15VDC for aux gear? After looking at Hypex's site I don't think their unit does so.
Thanks in advance,
After moving out of country some years ago I put my audio electronics in storage and I just took them out last week.
I have 4 UcD180 modules on bi-amped servo controlled speakers and I am looking to move the electronics from a single enclosure to separate mono enclosures at the speakers. I am using a linear PS in the combined chassis and would like to move to SMPS in the mono enclosures. But I need +/- 15vdc also for the servo circuit.
Does anyone know of an SMPS that will supply the +/- 50VDC for the UcD180's AND the +/- 15VDC for aux gear? After looking at Hypex's site I don't think their unit does so.
Thanks in advance,
Hi Troy,
Yes, the SMPS provides two sets of voltages: +/- 46, 73, 85V for the main UcD180/400/700 units AND a second +/- voltage rail.
It's either regulated at 12V or unregulated around 21~22V by a pair of jumper settings on the SMPS.
I'm using the unregulated version which I'm then pushing through a pair of L7815 and 7915 voltage regulators to give me +/- 15V rails 🙂
edit:
On the SMPS, J4 provides either unreg 21V or reg 12V rails on pins 1 and 2 depending on jumper settings.
However, J5 claims to provide unreg voltage on pins 3 and 7. I'd have to check, but I think this is regardless of J6 and J7 jumper settings.
Yes, the SMPS provides two sets of voltages: +/- 46, 73, 85V for the main UcD180/400/700 units AND a second +/- voltage rail.
It's either regulated at 12V or unregulated around 21~22V by a pair of jumper settings on the SMPS.
I'm using the unregulated version which I'm then pushing through a pair of L7815 and 7915 voltage regulators to give me +/- 15V rails 🙂
edit:
On the SMPS, J4 provides either unreg 21V or reg 12V rails on pins 1 and 2 depending on jumper settings.
However, J5 claims to provide unreg voltage on pins 3 and 7. I'd have to check, but I think this is regardless of J6 and J7 jumper settings.
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molex connector for input
Can anybody point me to what molex (preferrably wired) should I buy from TME? Thanks!
Can anybody point me to what molex (preferrably wired) should I buy from TME? Thanks!
I don't think you'll find one pre-wired with the right connections.
From TME, you need:
4-pin housing: 0022012045 6471-04(I) MOLEX - Plug | TME - Electronic components
crimp connector: 0008500032 4809C-(P918)L MOLEX - Contact | TME - Electronic components
Ideally, you need a Molex KK crimping pliers. You can do it without by crimping with small pliers and then maybe solder, but it's rather small and fiddly. Getting a crimper to do just one or two is expensive, but if you plan to rewire or crimp several connectors, it's well worth it! For a good quality/price, I'd recommend the Japanese "Engineer" set of crimpers: The PA-21 is excellent ENGINEER INC. - UNIVERSAL TYPE PRECISION CRIMPING PLIERS FOR OPEN-BARREL TERMINAL and at the small 1.6 end will crimp Molex KK, at the large 2.5mm end, you can just about crimp Faston tab connectors (used for the speaker and power connections on UcD180 / 400).
I bought mine in the UK via Ebay, but they are around €40. Not cheap, but a lot cheaper than the officiel Molex ones which are several 100 euros!
From TME, you need:
4-pin housing: 0022012045 6471-04(I) MOLEX - Plug | TME - Electronic components
crimp connector: 0008500032 4809C-(P918)L MOLEX - Contact | TME - Electronic components
Ideally, you need a Molex KK crimping pliers. You can do it without by crimping with small pliers and then maybe solder, but it's rather small and fiddly. Getting a crimper to do just one or two is expensive, but if you plan to rewire or crimp several connectors, it's well worth it! For a good quality/price, I'd recommend the Japanese "Engineer" set of crimpers: The PA-21 is excellent ENGINEER INC. - UNIVERSAL TYPE PRECISION CRIMPING PLIERS FOR OPEN-BARREL TERMINAL and at the small 1.6 end will crimp Molex KK, at the large 2.5mm end, you can just about crimp Faston tab connectors (used for the speaker and power connections on UcD180 / 400).
I bought mine in the UK via Ebay, but they are around €40. Not cheap, but a lot cheaper than the officiel Molex ones which are several 100 euros!
The PA-21 is a good investment, it will work with most of the Molex/JST connectors and it's well-made. However, if it's a one-off build you should be able to solder the connectors as well (thin tip and thin solder definitely recommended 🙂 )
/U.
/U.
They are well made. I also bought the larger 14C one with the No. 13 interchangeable die for crimping larger connectors. It does the next range up from the PA-21: 2.5, 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 and 3.7mm crimps and the latter are ideal for the larger JST VLP range of crimps (used on Hypex SMPS1200 and the larger UcD units).
Photo from crimping a 6.35mm Faston connector with PA-21
Photo from crimping a 6.35mm Faston connector with PA-21
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Yep, they make great tools.
BTW, if you happen to visit Japan you can buy the whole range at a substantial discount from the EU prices (or get more stuff for the same money as I usually do) 😀
/U.
BTW, if you happen to visit Japan you can buy the whole range at a substantial discount from the EU prices (or get more stuff for the same money as I usually do) 😀
/U.
Suppose you are using SMPS400A180 supply with a typical output voltage around 46Vdc.
Voltage drop is relatively high for the HXR regs to output +-12Vdc but still well within the specs since the max voltage input for HXR is 60Vdc.
Should be fine.
Ucd180HG integrated problems
Hi,
I recently rebuild my Hypex Ucd180HG amplifier and added a input selector switch and also a vol pot. Previously it was being used as power amp.
After my modifications some problems occurred (all inputs, same problem);
1. Signal can be heard even when the pot is turned down
2. Volume gets too loud very quickly
3. Pretty much no bass.
Wiring should be all fine and correct. Vol pot is Alps Blue 10K.
I tried with an attenuator plug/interconnect cable and this seemed to give me more adjusting room bit the pot and treble/bass were much better in balance. Though the max vol pot position is not even too loud. (The latter is probably caused by my attenuator being maybe tad too much. I have to check the resistor values I used on it.)
Problems were not present when amplifier was used as power amp.
Nice, if someone has some hint for troubleshooting the problem.
Best,
M
Hi,
I recently rebuild my Hypex Ucd180HG amplifier and added a input selector switch and also a vol pot. Previously it was being used as power amp.
After my modifications some problems occurred (all inputs, same problem);
1. Signal can be heard even when the pot is turned down
2. Volume gets too loud very quickly
3. Pretty much no bass.
Wiring should be all fine and correct. Vol pot is Alps Blue 10K.
I tried with an attenuator plug/interconnect cable and this seemed to give me more adjusting room bit the pot and treble/bass were much better in balance. Though the max vol pot position is not even too loud. (The latter is probably caused by my attenuator being maybe tad too much. I have to check the resistor values I used on it.)
Problems were not present when amplifier was used as power amp.
Nice, if someone has some hint for troubleshooting the problem.
Best,
M