Cool!
Good info, I will keep looking. When I said ampmeter, that is a meter keyed simply to the number of amps being used.
Thanks,
Good info, I will keep looking. When I said ampmeter, that is a meter keyed simply to the number of amps being used.
Thanks,
Re: Cool!
oh, I get it - something to warn you that you're about to suck more than the 15amps your circuit can handle?
Not really going to be an issue for me, since the UCD700s cut out at 6.5amps, and I'm installing 6 dedicated circuits in spring: 4 for the 4 UCD700s, one for analog sources, one for the CD transport or computer. DAC runs on batteries anyway 🙂
Now that you brought me back to those VU and power meter links, I am contemplating to put some of these on my UCDs...kinda vintage looking (don't like the LED kind)
Peter
audioferret said:
oh, I get it - something to warn you that you're about to suck more than the 15amps your circuit can handle?
Not really going to be an issue for me, since the UCD700s cut out at 6.5amps, and I'm installing 6 dedicated circuits in spring: 4 for the 4 UCD700s, one for analog sources, one for the CD transport or computer. DAC runs on batteries anyway 🙂
Now that you brought me back to those VU and power meter links, I am contemplating to put some of these on my UCDs...kinda vintage looking (don't like the LED kind)
Peter
VU's might be nice, but what I really would like to have for the UCD's is some kind of led "clip indicator". Maybe the existing DC protection on the PS can be used in some kind of way to do this?
Sound.westhost.com
Have you looked at the projects on the ESP site? He has a project for a simple clipping indicator circuit. I am not sure if it works with other amps, maybe only his P3 project...
Have you looked at the projects on the ESP site? He has a project for a simple clipping indicator circuit. I am not sure if it works with other amps, maybe only his P3 project...
Volume Control for UCD180 monoblocks
What would be the best way to volume-match this type of project with my current amp?
I currently have a 1978 Toshiba 45 watt-per channel amplifier. I want to bi-amp the Raw-Acoustics HT3 (3-Way) speakers that I am building. The Toshiba will amp the top two drivers and the monoblocks will power the extremis drivers. The Extremis will handle everything from 200hz down to about 25 hz. The top end will be a modified Aurum Cantus G2 Ribbon and a CSS WR125S wide range driver.
I want to volume-match the monoblocks to my current amp but don't want a full-blown volume control on the front. My thought is to simply add a resistor pot across the input feed from the Preamp. I have two pre-outs from the preamp so biamping is pretty easy. The crossovers are bing built external to the speaker and each crossover is independant from the other.
Will this be problematic? How can I best address this?
What would be the best way to volume-match this type of project with my current amp?
I currently have a 1978 Toshiba 45 watt-per channel amplifier. I want to bi-amp the Raw-Acoustics HT3 (3-Way) speakers that I am building. The Toshiba will amp the top two drivers and the monoblocks will power the extremis drivers. The Extremis will handle everything from 200hz down to about 25 hz. The top end will be a modified Aurum Cantus G2 Ribbon and a CSS WR125S wide range driver.
I want to volume-match the monoblocks to my current amp but don't want a full-blown volume control on the front. My thought is to simply add a resistor pot across the input feed from the Preamp. I have two pre-outs from the preamp so biamping is pretty easy. The crossovers are bing built external to the speaker and each crossover is independant from the other.
Will this be problematic? How can I best address this?
Re: Volume Control for UCD180 monoblocks
wouldnt the cheapest/estiest thing to do would be an L-pad? then you could just adjust it to taste. i had this problem when matching my rotels with my aleph3's. instead of an l-pad i went in and changed the gain to match that of the rotel, and it worked great. but you would have to know the gain and input impedence of the toshiba for that to work.
edit:
and when you get the L-pad setting you want, you could replace it with the respective resistor value for a permanent solution.
audioferret said:
wouldnt the cheapest/estiest thing to do would be an L-pad? then you could just adjust it to taste. i had this problem when matching my rotels with my aleph3's. instead of an l-pad i went in and changed the gain to match that of the rotel, and it worked great. but you would have to know the gain and input impedence of the toshiba for that to work.
edit:
and when you get the L-pad setting you want, you could replace it with the respective resistor value for a permanent solution.
Updated Parts List
Here are the parts that I have settled on for the Monoblocks:
Amp: UCD-180AD
Transformer: Avel 330VA, 30-0-30 Toroid (from JoshK, he says they worked well in his monos)
Power Caps: (2X) Nichicon Super-Thru 10,000uF, 63V
Power Cord: Volex 3-connector
Input IEC: Shurter 20A Double-pole Switch
Input Filter: Schurter 20A E-Type
Filter Caps: Film/Foil Polypro, .1uF, 400V
Rectifier Bridge: Fairchild, 27A 600V IXYS
Input RCA: Cardas Female Long/Thick
Filter Caps: Nichicon KZ: 100uF, 100V; 100nF, 400V
RC Filter: Caddock 1R, 20W; 680nF 400V
Output Binding Posts: Cardas Five-Way.
Most parts will be sourced from Percy Audio.
The TNT-Audio Power Supply is the design I am using.
Thoughts? I am about to order.
-AF
Here are the parts that I have settled on for the Monoblocks:
Amp: UCD-180AD
Transformer: Avel 330VA, 30-0-30 Toroid (from JoshK, he says they worked well in his monos)
Power Caps: (2X) Nichicon Super-Thru 10,000uF, 63V
Power Cord: Volex 3-connector
Input IEC: Shurter 20A Double-pole Switch
Input Filter: Schurter 20A E-Type
Filter Caps: Film/Foil Polypro, .1uF, 400V
Rectifier Bridge: Fairchild, 27A 600V IXYS
Input RCA: Cardas Female Long/Thick
Filter Caps: Nichicon KZ: 100uF, 100V; 100nF, 400V
RC Filter: Caddock 1R, 20W; 680nF 400V
Output Binding Posts: Cardas Five-Way.
Most parts will be sourced from Percy Audio.
The TNT-Audio Power Supply is the design I am using.
Thoughts? I am about to order.
-AF
Re: Updated Parts List
hum, i might email you... i might go in on your order, maybe we can get a discount. im thinking about some of those same parts for mine. ill look it over and see if im going to do any of the same pieces.
audioferret said:
hum, i might email you... i might go in on your order, maybe we can get a discount. im thinking about some of those same parts for mine. ill look it over and see if im going to do any of the same pieces.
Hi, who makes your bridge rectifiers? Fairchild or IXYS?
Just one comment. Don't expect to throw all this together and have it be perfect, you might end up changing half of it.
What's with all the filter caps? 100uF?? 680nF?? RC filter for what?
Thanks,
Chris
Just one comment. Don't expect to throw all this together and have it be perfect, you might end up changing half of it.
What's with all the filter caps? 100uF?? 680nF?? RC filter for what?
Thanks,
Chris
classd4sure said:
now that im looking at it, there are a LOT of filter caps...
1) Film/Foil Polypro, .1uF, 400V
2) Filter Caps: Nichicon KZ: 100uF 100V
3) 100nF, 400V
4) 680nF 400V
and then the main psu caps...
im wondering whats going on here too. maybe its explained on the tnt-audio site?
cowanrg said:
Hi,
I think most could be, but values may not be optimal as given on the TNT site.
Then again I can't imagine what the 100uF would be for, I sure hope not the module itself?
Regards,
Chris
TNT- PS Reference
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ssps3_e.html
If you know of a better power supply, please let me know.
-Will
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ssps3_e.html
If you know of a better power supply, please let me know.
-Will
Start here:
http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi.htm
and end up here:
http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi_05.htm
You end up with much the same supply, the text is far better and explains things more.
Note the inclusion of bypass caps on the rectifiers, note the values of bypass caps are more on par with what gets recommended around here...
You don't need the 100uF caps that's for sure.
Regards,
Chris
http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi.htm
and end up here:
http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi_05.htm
You end up with much the same supply, the text is far better and explains things more.
Note the inclusion of bypass caps on the rectifiers, note the values of bypass caps are more on par with what gets recommended around here...
You don't need the 100uF caps that's for sure.
Regards,
Chris
dont these people know how to make images a link, so you can click on them to make them bigger!?!?
I selected the TNT design
I have reviewed both sites and have decided to go witht he design in TNT-audio. Both sites appear to be using the similar if not the same source material. The graphics of their designs are the same!
I have further revised my parts list- the only difference is that I am only using two 10,000uf power capacitors per power supply. As I will have two of these monoblocks, that gives me a total of 40,000uF in power capacity. That should be enough for me.
Volex 3-Connector (Mouser)
20A Power Entry (Mouser)
20A Power Switch (Mouser)
22nF, 600V MultiCap (PercyAudio)
10A Slow-Blow Fuse (hardware)
220nF, 630V Solen Cap (PercyAudio)
3ohm, 20W caddock MP-820 resistor
20W resistor Heat Sink(PercyAudio)
Avel 330VA 30-0-30 Toroid (personal sale)
100nF, 400V Multicap PPMFX (PercyAudio)
(2) 10A Slow Blow Fuses (hardware)
(2) 27A, 600V IXYS Bridge (Not Fairchild, (PercyAudio))
(2) Nichicon, 10,000uF Super-Thru (PercyAudio)
(2) 50mm Clamps (PercyAudio)
(2) 100uF 100V Nichicon KZ (PercyAudio)
(2) 100nF, 400V PPMFX (PercyAudio)
(2) Caddock 1R, 20W Resistors (PercyAudio)
(2) 20W resistor Heat Sinks (PercyAudio)
Cardas Female Long/Thick RCA (PercyAudio)
Hypex UCD 180AD (personal sale)
Cardas 5-way Binding posts (PercyAudio)
I like the TNT layout better and I will be able to experiment with it a little by leaving out ome filters to test the difference. If the parts don't help, I have other projects that they can be used for. If the 10,000uF caps are not enough, I have the other two to experiment with and see if I need 4 more.
The total cost including amp modules and toroids will run me about $676.66 for the pair.
I have reviewed both sites and have decided to go witht he design in TNT-audio. Both sites appear to be using the similar if not the same source material. The graphics of their designs are the same!
I have further revised my parts list- the only difference is that I am only using two 10,000uf power capacitors per power supply. As I will have two of these monoblocks, that gives me a total of 40,000uF in power capacity. That should be enough for me.
Volex 3-Connector (Mouser)
20A Power Entry (Mouser)
20A Power Switch (Mouser)
22nF, 600V MultiCap (PercyAudio)
10A Slow-Blow Fuse (hardware)
220nF, 630V Solen Cap (PercyAudio)
3ohm, 20W caddock MP-820 resistor
20W resistor Heat Sink(PercyAudio)
Avel 330VA 30-0-30 Toroid (personal sale)
100nF, 400V Multicap PPMFX (PercyAudio)
(2) 10A Slow Blow Fuses (hardware)
(2) 27A, 600V IXYS Bridge (Not Fairchild, (PercyAudio))
(2) Nichicon, 10,000uF Super-Thru (PercyAudio)
(2) 50mm Clamps (PercyAudio)
(2) 100uF 100V Nichicon KZ (PercyAudio)
(2) 100nF, 400V PPMFX (PercyAudio)
(2) Caddock 1R, 20W Resistors (PercyAudio)
(2) 20W resistor Heat Sinks (PercyAudio)
Cardas Female Long/Thick RCA (PercyAudio)
Hypex UCD 180AD (personal sale)
Cardas 5-way Binding posts (PercyAudio)
I like the TNT layout better and I will be able to experiment with it a little by leaving out ome filters to test the difference. If the parts don't help, I have other projects that they can be used for. If the 10,000uF caps are not enough, I have the other two to experiment with and see if I need 4 more.
The total cost including amp modules and toroids will run me about $676.66 for the pair.
Started Production!
Well, all parts are in. Time to finalize layout design and start assembly. I am really nervous at this point. If I blow a component....
Anyway, my layout will look alot like the CIaudio D100s. The difference will be the caps are 2x 10,000uF! (insert evil laugh here.) I am going to build wooden enclosures with metal plates on the front and back. Design is still in progress, bu I don't think i will be able to pull of the dimensions that CIaudio uses...wood is big...
Hopefully, this will be enough to properly drive the HT3s that I built. The 26 dB of gain will be nice.
-AF
Well, all parts are in. Time to finalize layout design and start assembly. I am really nervous at this point. If I blow a component....
Anyway, my layout will look alot like the CIaudio D100s. The difference will be the caps are 2x 10,000uF! (insert evil laugh here.) I am going to build wooden enclosures with metal plates on the front and back. Design is still in progress, bu I don't think i will be able to pull of the dimensions that CIaudio uses...wood is big...
Hopefully, this will be enough to properly drive the HT3s that I built. The 26 dB of gain will be nice.
-AF
I am about to construct a dual mono UCD 180 and have a choice on the power caps... the Hypex Instructions recommends a 4700uF cap..
Anyway, I have a set of Mallory 4800uF 75V (CGS series) and I also have a set of Nichicon 10000uF 63V...
The Mallory's are huge compared to the Nichicons...
I am running dual 28.6 VAC secondaries on the trannies giving around 40VDC/side, so 63V or 75V is just fine...
Anyone out there have any opinion?
Anyway, I have a set of Mallory 4800uF 75V (CGS series) and I also have a set of Nichicon 10000uF 63V...
The Mallory's are huge compared to the Nichicons...
I am running dual 28.6 VAC secondaries on the trannies giving around 40VDC/side, so 63V or 75V is just fine...
Anyone out there have any opinion?
i wish i had all my parts in...
im still waiting on the caps, and a few other things. oh well. between the UCD's, the cnc machine, school, and work, i have very little free time.
if you need any help, feel free to call me or email me. also, if you need that back plate, let me know.
edit:
oh, i picked up some surplus aluminum the other day from a guy who was selling it cheap. i picked up a 6' (yes, foot) long piece of 3/8" thick x 5" wide 6061 aluminum. i didnt have a use for it, but its good for machining and other stuff. it was only like $5 or so. if you can deal with the 5" dimension, it would make a great back panel.
im still waiting on the caps, and a few other things. oh well. between the UCD's, the cnc machine, school, and work, i have very little free time.
if you need any help, feel free to call me or email me. also, if you need that back plate, let me know.
edit:
oh, i picked up some surplus aluminum the other day from a guy who was selling it cheap. i picked up a 6' (yes, foot) long piece of 3/8" thick x 5" wide 6061 aluminum. i didnt have a use for it, but its good for machining and other stuff. it was only like $5 or so. if you can deal with the 5" dimension, it would make a great back panel.
Sounds Cool
I will be back in town on Tuesday, so I think I will try to get with you next weekend.
-AF
I will be back in town on Tuesday, so I think I will try to get with you next weekend.
-AF
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