I have been working on building my Turn Table for a while now, I have the material for the platter which will be 3 inch acrylic capped with .250 aluminum plate to shield the pickup from the linear drive. I plan on embedding rare earth magnets in the underside of the platter and placing a multiphase coil wound on a hoop in the base.
Think of it like a monorail that goes in circles, the platter will spin with no physical connection to the motor. I should be able to control the speed of the platter by varying the frequency of the linear drive while the amplitude will remain stable to provide platter suspension.
My biggest concern is whether I will be able to sufficiently dampen the bobbing action of the platter without resorting to runners under the platter.
Any thoughts?
Anthony
Think of it like a monorail that goes in circles, the platter will spin with no physical connection to the motor. I should be able to control the speed of the platter by varying the frequency of the linear drive while the amplitude will remain stable to provide platter suspension.
My biggest concern is whether I will be able to sufficiently dampen the bobbing action of the platter without resorting to runners under the platter.
Any thoughts?
Anthony
Anthony,
A linear drive motor, could you give us details of the frequency involved
and the current needed to move the platter. You keep the center axle ?
or the platter floats over the motor...
Regards.
Alain.
A linear drive motor, could you give us details of the frequency involved
and the current needed to move the platter. You keep the center axle ?
or the platter floats over the motor...
Regards.
Alain.
Hello Alain, I do not have any practical measurements at this time. The linear motor I built a while ago as AC powered from a 3 phase source. The linear motor for my Turn table design would be DC Powered as fixed magnets would be utilized. The current should not be any more than a few amps at 48VDC or there abouts. A centre shaft would still be required for stability as I believe a fully suspended platter would be very difficult to achieve.
I already tried a conpressed air powered drive and the big drawback in both motors is starting torque due to platter wieght. The air powered drive is noisy and the linear motor needs to be shielded. I have built similar units in the past as stirrers for lab use, this is where I got my inspiration from.
Anthony
I already tried a conpressed air powered drive and the big drawback in both motors is starting torque due to platter wieght. The air powered drive is noisy and the linear motor needs to be shielded. I have built similar units in the past as stirrers for lab use, this is where I got my inspiration from.
Anthony
Anthony,
Thanks for these details, I am interested in building a TT and I am looking to
all interesting details, plus a Schroder arm !
Don't you think the magnetic field of the motor could create problems with a Moving coil cartridge ???
PS:
On the other side, I have received the last cables for the preamplifier {with the Apox cards} and I hope to power up on saturday.
Regards.
Alain.
Thanks for these details, I am interested in building a TT and I am looking to
all interesting details, plus a Schroder arm !
Don't you think the magnetic field of the motor could create problems with a Moving coil cartridge ???
PS:
On the other side, I have received the last cables for the preamplifier {with the Apox cards} and I hope to power up on saturday.
Regards.
Alain.
The .250 Aluminum plate that tops the Acrylic Platter should make an effective EMF shield.
My SOBOZ/APOX is almost finished finally, I just have to wire it up as well. I will send you a few pics if you llike.
Anthony
My SOBOZ/APOX is almost finished finally, I just have to wire it up as well. I will send you a few pics if you llike.
Anthony
Sounds like you're making a giant version of a VCR take-up motor 🙂
I have always wondered with acrylic platters though, that material is super sensitive to heat. Now, 3" would be somewhat immune to warpage, but expansion can be nasty on a hot summer day 😕
I have always wondered with acrylic platters though, that material is super sensitive to heat. Now, 3" would be somewhat immune to warpage, but expansion can be nasty on a hot summer day 😕
I have always wondered with acrylic platters though, that material is super sensitive to heat. Now, 3" would be somewhat immune to warpage, but expansion can be nasty on a hot summer day
This can be a problem on a belt driven TT, but the direct driven as proposed above is imune to this.
Slightly OT: Can anyone make bearings?
Guys,
Whilst we're on the subject of DIY TT's and motors -
I'm also keen on making my own TT, but not just by scavanging parts from on old one.
If anyone can make bearings I have the means to cut 5mm thick acrylic for a tone arm. Something vaguely like http://www.scheu-analogue.com/eng/tonearms/Cantus/cantus.html
Any partners?
Guys,
Whilst we're on the subject of DIY TT's and motors -
I'm also keen on making my own TT, but not just by scavanging parts from on old one.
If anyone can make bearings I have the means to cut 5mm thick acrylic for a tone arm. Something vaguely like http://www.scheu-analogue.com/eng/tonearms/Cantus/cantus.html
Any partners?
DIY TT, bearing and other stuff
laserit,
I'm not sure I can help you with manufacturing, but I certainly can share my drawings, positive and negative experience gained while playing around with my TT:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35198
Would be easy, since we are living in the same small country.
Drop me email, if you are interested.
Shalom,
Michael
laserit,
I'm not sure I can help you with manufacturing, but I certainly can share my drawings, positive and negative experience gained while playing around with my TT:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35198
Would be easy, since we are living in the same small country.
Drop me email, if you are interested.
Shalom,
Michael
Hi Michael,
Thanks for the offer.
I'd be more than happy to see your drawings and hear your experiences (at least I could avoid the same errors!), but what I really need is a machinist to do the bearings while I could cut the arm, mounting plate etc.
Thanks for the offer.
I'd be more than happy to see your drawings and hear your experiences (at least I could avoid the same errors!), but what I really need is a machinist to do the bearings while I could cut the arm, mounting plate etc.
Machining
laserit,
I may check at any mashininsts, I'm familiar with. Again, just double click on my username, and send me email, if u r interested. I do not feel comfortable using the forum's site for personal affairs.
Cheers,
Michael
laserit,
I may check at any mashininsts, I'm familiar with. Again, just double click on my username, and send me email, if u r interested. I do not feel comfortable using the forum's site for personal affairs.
Cheers,
Michael
Papst motors?
I've got experience with their fans, these last forever(dual ball bearing) and have a really good reputation.
Papst fans also have a bad reputation of crreating a lot of vibrations, not good for a turntable if the motors are the same as the fan ones.
They are pretty silent, but the object they're attached to absorbs all the vibrations and this makes them really noisy.
I've got two versions of the well known 8312 fan, the 8312 and the 8312/12HL. The 12HL : twice the speed, cfm, power and ... noise
These are 120cfm(!) gyroscopes that, as long as I know, can only be found at my local shop. People looking for the 8312 fans generally hate me : I can buy them for 4$CAD instead of 16$USD 😀
I've got experience with their fans, these last forever(dual ball bearing) and have a really good reputation.
Papst fans also have a bad reputation of crreating a lot of vibrations, not good for a turntable if the motors are the same as the fan ones.
They are pretty silent, but the object they're attached to absorbs all the vibrations and this makes them really noisy.
I've got two versions of the well known 8312 fan, the 8312 and the 8312/12HL. The 12HL : twice the speed, cfm, power and ... noise

I know this is probably nuts, but I have to ask anyway. I have a one horse variable speed switch reluctance motor that runs fairly quietly. Now I know that I will need to isolate it. But assuming I can takle the noise issue....
I was thinking that if I ran it at around 7000 rpm. (10000 max opperating) that there would be enough stability to overcome the cogging issues. I will need an idler I'm sure to be able to drop the rpm's enough. Any reason not to try?
DaveM
I was thinking that if I ran it at around 7000 rpm. (10000 max opperating) that there would be enough stability to overcome the cogging issues. I will need an idler I'm sure to be able to drop the rpm's enough. Any reason not to try?
DaveM
The turntable will still turn even if there's a TV on it 😀 (A 2HP can run a golf cart)
It's quiet, but are there a lot of vibrations coming from it?
You can try, I'd tell you to start by just making the platter to try the motor, and then work with the audio parts. So that if something flies to the other end of the room, it will not destroy the tonearm.
But at that RPM, be sure your flywheel is not too fragile, what else, it will turn in a flying flywheel. Some CDs break@ 5000rpm.
My 40$ grinder is even more dangerous; it runs @ 11000rpm
Question for the forum:
If you were going to buy a motor just for this task, what type would you choose? DC brushed, DC brushless, triphase, asynch. triphase, single phase, stepped?
It's quiet, but are there a lot of vibrations coming from it?
You can try, I'd tell you to start by just making the platter to try the motor, and then work with the audio parts. So that if something flies to the other end of the room, it will not destroy the tonearm.
But at that RPM, be sure your flywheel is not too fragile, what else, it will turn in a flying flywheel. Some CDs break@ 5000rpm.
My 40$ grinder is even more dangerous; it runs @ 11000rpm
Question for the forum:
If you were going to buy a motor just for this task, what type would you choose? DC brushed, DC brushless, triphase, asynch. triphase, single phase, stepped?
Fortunately the motor is capable of running at anywhere from 120-10000 rpm. I was simply thinking that the faster the motor spins the more stable it would be. Instead of having a small relatively weak motor using the momentum of the platter to maintain speed I was thinking that it would be possible to use a high power motor spinning fast to create stability. I am guessing that it won't work, but I am still thinking of how to make it work.
I have a mill and lathe so anything will be made of aluminum or brass. Stability will not be an issue as everything can be bolted down in a serious industrial fashion.
About the vibrations, I was thinking of using rubber isolators and spikes on a seperat rack located next to the turntable. Then have the motor turn an idler pulley on a seperate mount then use the idler to drive the platter. I'm sure that would help with vibrations, but would it elimenate it? Hmmmm..
DaveM
I have a mill and lathe so anything will be made of aluminum or brass. Stability will not be an issue as everything can be bolted down in a serious industrial fashion.
About the vibrations, I was thinking of using rubber isolators and spikes on a seperat rack located next to the turntable. Then have the motor turn an idler pulley on a seperate mount then use the idler to drive the platter. I'm sure that would help with vibrations, but would it elimenate it? Hmmmm..
DaveM
It might work at a speed like this, because it's so fast everything stabilizes, but make sure that all the mechanics can support it.
To stop vibrations, an heavy platter should work. Also, you'll need to drive it from belts.
One of the problems you might encounter is how you'll stop it.
To stop vibrations, an heavy platter should work. Also, you'll need to drive it from belts.
One of the problems you might encounter is how you'll stop it.
I've also heard that old (not the ones used lately) motors from hard drives and some floppy drives are good to use. I can't personally vouch for that, but sounds reasonable.
Personally I've been thinking about using a motor from an old SCSI drive used in a Sparc20 or scavenging a VCR motor.
Personally I've been thinking about using a motor from an old SCSI drive used in a Sparc20 or scavenging a VCR motor.
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