turntable interconnect diy - gauge too small?

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MaccAu--may I call you MaccAg for the purposes of this discussion. 😉

If I were to hand wring on this issue--I'd be asking the material science guy who responded third in this thread about his recommendations for this application. 😉 I think they go something along the lines of "thick enough to be durable" "flexible" and something along the lines of "not PVC insulation". (IIRC, due to gas permeability) Hopefully he'll read this and close the loop. 😀
 
Hi DF96
I am not sure, fine silver is good for finer details but maybe brighter

Hi Bill
On the charts silver is the highest conductivitiy

Hi Avwerk, That is new to me another metal to try

Hi Derfnofred, lolz i like the nick MaccAg, or maybe MaccSPC

That said, i found small length of 6.5N copper orotfon speaker cable in a box fo spares, the strands are indiviually insulated in something, that i get off with light sanding and a hot soldering iron

Would this be suitable for tonearm arm, as an interconnect? I might try an all copper set up?😀
 
Yes, i think Bill the Technics wires look silvery the coating maybe its tinned wire? copper coast is less also over silver, and maybe the benefits is only very small if any and nto worth the extra costs

Anyway, can i use this speaker cable? the Ortofon is very high quality ? i was thiinking of using the strands?
 
Are you suggesting silver somehow attenuates low frequencies more than copper?

Hi Nezbleu,

I would not know this. I like the silver plated copper as i fear about the copper going oxidising over time, the above Orotfon copper is coated so it would never oxidise. So could i use it in the tonearm and as a interconnect? I would use a few strands for the interconnect and maybe a singe strand or 2 for the tonearm, its strong and durable each strand


SILVER AUDIO
 
To prevent oxidising of the copper cores you have two common choices: tin plating, or tinned with solder.
Silver plating does not prevent oxidation. The silver probably corrodes faster than the copper.

All of these common options, tin, silver and tinned are easy to solder.
Corroded copper can be very difficult to solder.
 
I wonder how much effect the gauge would be having if we have regular removable headshell. The headshell terminal's contact points which go in to tonearm socket are almost 0.5 mm in size. probably even less. How much of that would be in firm contact with pins inside the tonearm socket will be interesting to know. a tonearm wire with lugs connected from cartridge and at the other end soldered to preamp would be nice. Right ?
Regards.
 
My experience is that silver wire is somewhat 'shouty' and that silver plated wire of any sort is horrendous!! Keep to copper Litz.

Regarding gauge, the most important factor is to allow the tone arm to function as well as possible. So great care and 'touch' is required to ensure that this function is unimpaired. Other considerations regarding gauge are secondary.

AndrewT's post recommending a 7 strand twist is also very worthwhile: 7 strands form a really neat twist. Don't make too tight as that will stiffen the bundle, but don't make so loose that there are strands showing proud of others. Keep it just tight enough to form a wire with decent integrity. Also pay attention to the earthing system as advised by AndrewT.
 
7 was chosen because that is the common stranding available after single core.
The six fit around the central core.
The next is 19strands. It fits 12 around the 6 that are around the one.

1, 7 and 19 are the standards for smallest cable size with most copper in the bundle.

7*40awg or 7*38awg would both be fairly flexible if a thin flexible insulator is chosen.
19*40awg would be quite big and flexibility/stiffness may affect the arm movement even with a very compliant insulator.
 
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Thanks for the reply and advice Hiten, Brianco and Andrew

Can I use the 6.5N ortofon speaker cable, it must be litz as each strand is insulated?

I could use it on the headshell leads, tonearm and interconnect? I recon that would be pretty interesting?😀
 
I’m running an enameled 42awg copper wire, cartridge leads straight to preamp jacks. I’m running them outside the arm tube. I have no hum issues, and arm is very free. They were a little tricky to solder, and are delicate to handle. I’ll venture to say that they are bright, and maybe pickup too much detail? - Having tried all this, I may try the single run thing again with something more common like a 34x4. Maybe more sturdy, maybe hide some detail I don’t want... fun to try!
 
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