• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Tube phono stage w/no RIAA components

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I've built 3 or 4 different tube based phono amps, The previous one and this CCDA work almost equally well IMHO. It's effectively the same thing, but half of the triodes are replaced with resistors... Active loading requires double the tubes, but the heat output is outside of the chassis instead of under it from the resistors. It's also more linear according to John Broskie, the author of tubecad.com CCDA is also from there. I didn't invent it, I just think it's a great topology. :D

EDIT: Also, the 3k18 resistor in the filter can be made from 3k3 and 100k in parallel.
 

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I've built 3 or 4 different tube based phono amps, The previous one and this CCDA work almost equally well IMHO. It's effectively the same thing, but half of the triodes are replaced with resistors... Active loading requires double the tubes, but the heat output is outside of the chassis instead of under it from the resistors. It's also more linear according to John Broskie, the author of tubecad.com CCDA is also from there. I didn't invent it, I just think it's a great topology. :D

EDIT: Also, the 3k18 resistor in the filter can be made from 3k3 and 100k in parallel.

Thx a lot m8. Btw is there a cheap service that is preferred by diyaudier's for PCB prototyping? I feel that a tube PCB should have a very high quality.
 
I know a couple of people use this service because it's cheap: PCB Prototype & PCB Fabrication Manufacturer - JLCPCB

Personally, I build everything point to point.

This is very cheap indeed and ty. You feel there is better sound quality when you use point to point? Have you ever compared side by side the same circuit with pcb and hardwired or there are other reasons for doing it (eg your pleasure of making it all on your own?)
 
I can recommend valvewizard's phono. It's well documented, offers multiple tube choice and I'm very happy with it's sound.

Just beware, that you really need good regulated power supply (at least for the heaters).

In the past my brother has built a power amp regulated PSU with-120db rejection. Even in the 50hz (Europe) point there was a 7-10 db peak with no other peaks or harmonics (if i say it correctly). For this low power situation i'm sure he can built it to bw quiet.

As i do not have the knowledge may i ask the following: is it possible for the low voltages to use battery power? For example 5 rechargeable batteries would give me 6v.

And if yes, is is advisable? People do it or for convenience purpose (or any other case) they just avoid it?

During my audiophile life I always preferred the difficult solution to get the last degree of better sound, so it wouldn't be an issue for me.

Tyvm
 
That's great, if he is skilled in power supply design it's definitely an advantage. I'm not a guru I have finished few amps so far and this was my first project.
And while firstwatt F4 paired with Ale's 01A DHT pre was big leap forward from my previous setup, I'm still very happy with this phono (compared to my decent DAC for example). Which is the reason I recommend it.

As for the batteries: I'm lazy person and I want my stuff to be as maintain free as possible:) Besides I don't think you will hear the difference if you use some high quality stuff like Salas's or Rod Coleman's regulators. Just don't underestimate importance of this part.
 
That's great, if he is skilled in power supply design it's definitely an advantage. I'm not a guru I have finished few amps so far and this was my first project.
And while firstwatt F4 paired with Ale's 01A DHT pre was big leap forward from my previous setup, I'm still very happy with this phono (compared to my decent DAC for example). Which is the reason I recommend it.

As for the batteries: I'm lazy person and I want my stuff to be as maintain free as possible:) Besides I don't think you will hear the difference if you use some high quality stuff like Salas's or Rod Coleman's regulators. Just don't underestimate importance of this part.

thank you very much. I don't know sala's or coleman's regulators.
In these low asking currents they might indeed bring an almost or equal performance as a (properly setup=ultra low resistance) battery. I would use the battery for the last degree of quality when i would digitize my vinyl (i admit it: for the last 20 years i use batteries somewhere in my system lol) and the regulator for comfort of listening.

Are there any boards within the community for these regulators to make them and compare?
 
As you said, you will probably ends up with reasonable currents which is good.
I would start by choosing the project, than you will know exactly what voltages and currents you need.
For Salas's stuff Teabag is running group-buys in group-buy sub-forum.
In your case ultrabib (for heaters) and sshv (for b+) might be useful.
Rod Coleman's regulators are probably overkill for non DHT project, you can buy it directly from him.

For vinyl digitalization there will be more important chalenges to focus on imho. Such as quality of ADC, turntable, cartridge used and amplifiers in chain.
But of course -you can try it with batteries and see if you can hear the difference;)
 
As you said, you will probably ends up with reasonable currents which is good.
I would start by choosing the project, than you will know exactly what voltages and currents you need.
For Salas's stuff Teabag is running group-buys in group-buy sub-forum.
In your case ultrabib (for heaters) and sshv (for b+) might be useful.
Rod Coleman's regulators are probably overkill for non DHT project, you can buy it directly from him.

For vinyl digitalization there will be more important chalenges to focus on imho. Such as quality of ADC, turntable, cartridge used and amplifiers in chain.
But of course -you can try it with batteries and see if you can hear the difference;)

woohooo... 176 pages thread (uBiB)..lol
i will check them out and thx for pointing to them.
for turntable i have a garrard lab 80mk2 which will be modified.
for tonearm i am leaning to buy a "cheap" tangential. for cartridge i was thinking nagaoka mp300. for adc i found a ready made board with top of the line chip cant remember which company, i have to find where i have put the links. then these boards should follow. all in all i guess this is a years work:eek::eek::eek:
 
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Yes it's one of the shorter topics in here:D
I can't comment on the Garrard, but you are about to pair it with pretty decent cartridge. I'm just listening to Nagaoka mp-110, which temporarily replaced my Denon DL-110 for my DJing attempts and it's not bad at all, for the entry level price tag.

Anyway I would focus more on ADC. In my experience DAC quality is making huge difference in overal sound quality, so I believe, that with ADC's it will be similar and chip in use is just the part of the story.
 
Yes it's one of the shorter topics in here:D
I can't comment on the Garrard, but you are about to pair it with pretty decent cartridge. I'm just listening to Nagaoka mp-110, which temporarily replaced my Denon DL-110 for my DJing attempts and it's not bad at all, for the entry level price tag.

Anyway I would focus more on ADC. In my experience DAC quality is making huge difference in overal sound quality, so I believe, that with ADC's it will be similar and chip in use is just the part of the story.

AD24QS - Audio Analog to Digital Converter 24 Bit / 192 kHz
i found it. i was thinking aes/ebu-->aes/ebu interface to usb-->pc
in time perhaps we make a better one but for beginning i dont want to flood with projects as they are too many. i prefer to go one step each time
and "record" our results
 
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