• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Tube heaters AC or DC?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
i do not explain opinions, nor will i demand you to explain your opinions....
technical discussions, those require more explanations...

but definitely using 16volt tantalums on circuits that have 40 volts is unsafe...
guaranteed to let the magic smoke out...i wouldn't even try...

So, you were deliberately misleading me here with your previous answer that "any cap will do". Is that what you are writing? I think I have a reason to report this behavior to the forum owner. In the meantime would you be so kind to not respond to my posts?
 
that is not what i said, read my post again.....

any cap other than tantalum will do....
the object of your circuit below is to bias the heaters up
so as not to exceed tube heater to cathode voltage specs...
you can change your resistors to 1.2M instead of 120k,
and 200k instead of 20k. wrt to the cap, i used 100 volt types
if the bias is 60volts or so.....this is a safe thing to do...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

So, you were deliberately misleading me here with your previous answer that "any cap will do". Is that what you are writing? I think I have a reason to report this behavior to the forum owner. In the meantime would you be so kind to not respond to my posts?

this is a public forum, you can not impose your will on another member...;)
 
Got it: I had connected one end of the 12V heater supply to the bias point, instead of the center tap. Pffft!

After so many years and dozens of builds one can still be surprised by the effects of a small (hihi) mistake. On the positive side is that this experience makes one think about the consequences of mixing AC into the power supply. Will that thingy Jones described come in handy after all..
 
AX tech editor
Joined 2002
Paid Member
It's from Vishay Stewart. Although it's written specific to Tantalum capacitors, I needed the technical support for reassurance that operating those 16V caps at 380V is safe.

Ahhh! The classical fallacy, Bruno would say. Voltage doesn't exist on its own, it's always voltage with respect to!
If the voltage across the cap is less than 16V, what could be the problem that you need tech support for??
If it is more than 16V, you're in trouble! Everything else is irrelevant (in this context).

Jan
 
Last edited:
Well... ;) there was 2,9V ripple over those 16V caps and I (still) have no clue if that amount of AC is healthy. It would probably shorten their lifespan, but at what rate? Further I could not see what happens at startup when that 10uF gets loaded. The Fluke 87 DMM peak monitor function is not that fast.

It was the other way around than I thought: the heater supply was disturbing the HV. Silly thing was although anyone would have noticed that high pitched percussion, I was unable to measure a change in level of more than 0,25%. If the measurement had exacerbated, things would have been clear from the beginning but I have been listening (in disgust) to 50Hz modulated audio for a week, not understanding what was causing this trouble. It's a great hobby :D
 
Just pure 30-50khz regulated sinewave AC heaters. No Hum. Fully floating and symmetric.

Just hypothetical as I'm no EE, how come the valve does not oscillate at the applied frequency? From what I understood there's capacitive coupling from heater to cathode. Although above AF, the valve is certainly operating at these high frequencies. Doesn't it give distortions at lower (audio) frequencies?
 
Just hypothetical as I'm no EE, how come the valve does not oscillate at the applied frequency? From what I understood there's capacitive coupling from heater to cathode. Although above AF, the valve is certainly operating at these high frequencies. Doesn't it give distortions at lower (audio) frequencies?

In some cases like, the cathode in DHT is directly coupled with heater itself. The HF can be filtered out easily. Also the interaction with audio frequency will result in modulation products outside of audible range. IMHO
 
O no..but I was curious. Last time I tried AC on my 300B it made a hell of a noise. It seemed as if the hum pot's did nothing...no matter how I turned them.

I had this on my 300B pp; when I changed around the heater connection to one of the tubes it was all silent: so little now that it can't be heard on a Lowther.

I use one AC winding (with a single 0,2ohm inrush stopper) for each channel.​
 
Mmmh !

Don't forget side effects:
The current peaks flowing in the transformator, bridge and in that huge 100000µF "smoothing" cap could generate more noise than DC supply is supposed to remove.

Yves.

Agree. I am struggling with this issue now: I see the rectified spikes from the filament DC in my output. Exactly in synch. So it is capacitative degrading the input cathode it seems. I use a toroid transformer. Such a transformer saturates easily .There might be 10A or higher transients easily.
- I get 6,1Volt with a high current (2A) DC through a LM350.

(But with AC to which I reverted this morning I see more junk ricght now). Yach.
 
i never had any humming issues with the 2 2A3 sets i built a couple of years ago,
one had a center tapped 2.5 volt filament winding i used as bias tapping point,
the other had a humdinger pot......
i set the humdinger pot to midspan and afterwards i found out that i did not
have to touch it at all....
 
...Were it not for that pesky 'filament damage', tubes may have never been invented, and this forum would serve the DIY steam-powered player piano community.

One can make a NAND logic gate with three steam controlled valves. With a NAND gate, any and all digital logic could be implemented. It is interesting to contemplate a steam powered internet consisting of a bunch of steam powered I5's, I7's and IPAD's chatting on the "steam-powered player piano community" forum. And everyone would use the term "valve". Might be a little hot though. :D And slow.
 
Heaters with a DC reference are guaranteed to work. No reference, then you have to be lucky. No electrode inside a valve should float.

True, I still wonder why it works, preamp tubes are without ref. Just why bother with 100R to ground if it works well floating them. I see all the books authors advocating a ref, why bother for small tubes?
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.