I must admit that this never occurred to me.
I understand what you mean, but, I wonder how I might actually do this? Besides the software implementation that is. My good DAP and my PC both can do basic equalization, but many things that I like to plug in from time to time such as my PSP do not (not only do you not get a custom equalizer setting, but it actually tends to raise rather than lower frequencies.)
I do agree with you that this makes more sense, but I'm not really sure how to do it with hardware solutions. Right now my filtering knowledge pretty much just goes as far as using capacitors and inductors for simple passive filters. As far as actually modifying an existing amplifier setup goes I'm not sure if I could do anything really -- as much as I'd like to. Like you say, I'd rather that the lower frequencies were dropped before they even reached the amp in the first place if that were possible.
Well, the capacitor and soldering iron should arrive in the next few days (maybe even tomorrow if I'm really lucky) so at least I'll be able to slightly reduce the total load on the amp if nothing else.
Not yet. I've been trying to figure out the best way to do this. It seems like it might be best to go ahead with a larger driver so the system would handle better before I did this. Though I do mean to port this one eventually since if I do replace this driver for my home system I'll eventually use the Dayton in my car (otherwise I'll just have to make do with the generic driver from the original Klipsch setup.) Also, I'm still not clear on the whole tuning frequency thing. Regardless, if I'm going to do a different driver, I will be putting this off until later. (I still don't even have an amp for putting a subwoofer in the car, so it might be a while -- the absolutely terrible stock system seemed to drive my speakers almost well enough, and a relatively cheap head unit I got later that produces at least twice as much power if not even more definitely has enough, so I can stick to a relatively cheap mono amp, but that's still enough that I'd rather focus on my home system first and that later.)
Well, to start with, let me ask you this: just exactly how does one design such a frame? From the stuff I could find so far (which isn't much) it seems like they're talking about designs that would end up being pretty long. I definitely can't have some long tube-like thing for a subwoofer -- I'd end up tripping over it whenever I walked by that area if nothing else. I don't mind the concept of an open baffle design since on-axis sound is what matters most to me, but I'm not sure about designing one really. Also, one side does sit near to a surface (my TV stand) so that might interfere as well.
Well, not huge. I couldn't give you any exact numbers. Just from trying to play around with some measuring tape to estimate the amount of room it would take up, I'd have to say that the numbers I came up with worked out to maybe 2.5 ft^3 tops, though there is a little leeway on that (of course, smaller being more ideal than larger.) Many of these, when I plug the numbers into the calculator, seem to imply that they'd want ridiculously large amounts though, like 10 ft^3 or something. That's just a bit too excessive. (Or do I just misunderstand its output?)
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Ah, I decided to try venting it after all. If that calculator on bcae1 is correct, then the ideal vented enclosure is actually closer to the size of my old enclosure for the Dayton driver. Also, I realized that I didn't necessarily have to order those pipes made specifically for the task and wait for them to arrive just to even try it. My local hardware store of course has PVC pipes among which is a 2x24 pipe for dirt cheap. This way I had plenty of room for trial and error and since it uses the smaller enclosure I'm not as worried about having a large hole in it. With a little help from a hacksaw and a rotary tool (to smooth the edges as much as possible -- I've read about port noise if the edges are too harsh) I cut a bit out and after quite a bit more work making a hole large enough to fit it and getting it in there, I moved the driver back to that enclosure with the new pipe. I threw in the capacitor as well while I was at it. It's still definitely struggling a little with my toughest stuff, but overall it seems to be doing quite well now. At least this means I have it working satisfactory until I can come up with anything better. I guess that driver just REALLY needed a ported enclosure. (Of course, there was no excuse for the original one given that it came in a ported enclosure to begin with...)
Too bad this forum won't let you edit a post after a while. This doesn't really belong in a new post, but it's the only way I can say it.
Too bad this forum won't let you edit a post after a while. This doesn't really belong in a new post, but it's the only way I can say it.
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