Hallo to all
Here is a new client build I will (hopefully) soon work on- Ellipticor-84 of Troels Gravesen.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellipticor-84.htm
Those scan speak drivers are really High tech dream stuff, yet ultra expensive.... that being said I am dying to know what magic they can produce.
So, no judging! just enjoy the high end porn.
So, lets hope this thing get wings, I´ll keep updating
Here is the original build of Troels
and our different take, using brass and Acryl Glass.
Here is a new client build I will (hopefully) soon work on- Ellipticor-84 of Troels Gravesen.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Ellipticor-84.htm
Those scan speak drivers are really High tech dream stuff, yet ultra expensive.... that being said I am dying to know what magic they can produce.
So, no judging! just enjoy the high end porn.
So, lets hope this thing get wings, I´ll keep updating
Here is the original build of Troels
and our different take, using brass and Acryl Glass.
Drivers of that calibre should easily be capable of linearizing and dialing in using a passive crossover. I'd at least biwire the low end and MF+HF separately. While I don't fully appreciate this driver line-up due to the fussy VC alignment, they do intrigue me and should be looked at from a more objective POV despite my prejudices. I'm sure they'll sound great when its all put together.
The Acrylic panel thing must be catching on. Have you listened to Qualio IQ?
I doubt it. The sound emanates from the front surface and ten bounces off the front wall. Whether the box is present behind the baffle is somewhat immaterial.
Caveats: the glass should be Lexan polycarbonate so it is easier to machine and won't crack. It should also be well supported by rear L brackets to make sure it doesn't ring like a tuning fork.
Make sure you give the woofers the full required volume.
Caveats: the glass should be Lexan polycarbonate so it is easier to machine and won't crack. It should also be well supported by rear L brackets to make sure it doesn't ring like a tuning fork.
Make sure you give the woofers the full required volume.
No, really wanted to last Munich but was overwhelmed by other stuff. I really like the look though
Poly carbonat is more flexibal and is more prone to scratches the acrylglass- use for police shields and eye protection gogels
Acrylglass is I think the way to go. only problem is price. 30mm 400euro for sqm!
You are absolutely right about the ringing like a fork- will have to think about a better solution... maybe something like this? Althou intrusive
I would only use acrylic for the tweeter, the mid is likely very heavy and even your latest design risks ringing because the panels are not constrained on all edges, neither are they braced.
Make sure you buy polycarbonate sheet with good UV protection. It yellows very quickly if its not treated and becomes brittle. Acrylic isn't so bad that way but it also yellows.
That would probably break the visual effect too much, I agree about the vibration, needs to be better braced.
Here is the last incarnation
Good to see that the OB flexing and squirming,
Fixing the edges with a heavy mass in the holes in the middle just makes the problems different.
I would suggest a single brace just off-centre that also supports and bracesm the magnets, particularily that of the midrange.
You moght also consider isolating it from the woofer enclosure (which could also be better braced.
dave
Fixing the edges with a heavy mass in the holes in the middle just makes the problems different.
I would suggest a single brace just off-centre that also supports and bracesm the magnets, particularily that of the midrange.
You moght also consider isolating it from the woofer enclosure (which could also be better braced.
dave
I didn't know Acrylglass was not ordinary acrylic, which cracks easily.
I would brace as high as you can to the front panel.
I would brace as high as you can to the front panel.
Would be difficult bracing this strange driver, but I totally get your point... needs more thinking
A very elegant and easy solution would be to make the acryl baffle wider, bend the edges back (heat). You could do that on all 4 edges. Such a rounded edge would also create less edge diffraction.