Re: What's a suitable break-in period for the TA-10 ?
To answer my own question I found the below on
http://www.audio-magus.com/help_answer.asp?ID=133#133 .
Guess, I'll burn it in for a week and then look at modding.
IAP
ianp said:
To answer my own question I found the below on
http://www.audio-magus.com/help_answer.asp?ID=133#133 .
Guess, I'll burn it in for a week and then look at modding.
IAP
Hi,
need your help for a little mod, i am undecided which way to go.
I own a pair of Klipsch RF-7 with a efficiency of 102db/W and have some problems with the poti. I have mindnumbing volume if I turn the knob to 1/4, if I want to listen at normal volumes the knob is at 1/10 rotation. The pot however seems lousy, as one channel is constantly louder than the other, if I turn the knob really low I even have the effect of one channel not even starting to play whilst the other is already playing just fine. This seems to be caused by a lousy tolerance in the pot.
Is it easier with the TA10.1 to put in a Alps pot or to reduce input gain by some dB so I don't have to use the pot at its lowest rotation settings?
Marco
need your help for a little mod, i am undecided which way to go.
I own a pair of Klipsch RF-7 with a efficiency of 102db/W and have some problems with the poti. I have mindnumbing volume if I turn the knob to 1/4, if I want to listen at normal volumes the knob is at 1/10 rotation. The pot however seems lousy, as one channel is constantly louder than the other, if I turn the knob really low I even have the effect of one channel not even starting to play whilst the other is already playing just fine. This seems to be caused by a lousy tolerance in the pot.
Is it easier with the TA10.1 to put in a Alps pot or to reduce input gain by some dB so I don't have to use the pot at its lowest rotation settings?
Marco
Hi I had an issue with short in my preamp which was connected to the trends amp at the time.
It is currently in power amp configuration, it is still working but the gain has increased greatly on both channels. I get a constant hiss through both channels when there is no signal, it used to be silent.
I have tried some different sources to check the amp and they give the same problem. Is it possible I have burnt out the input resistors ? would it be the bank of 4 behind the volume pot ?
If anyone could give me some pointers that would be great.
thankyou.
It is currently in power amp configuration, it is still working but the gain has increased greatly on both channels. I get a constant hiss through both channels when there is no signal, it used to be silent.
I have tried some different sources to check the amp and they give the same problem. Is it possible I have burnt out the input resistors ? would it be the bank of 4 behind the volume pot ?
If anyone could give me some pointers that would be great.
thankyou.
nightyy said:
Just what i had searched for, I have already requested shipment to germany, as the online shop doesn't offer that.
And I am still confused I couldn't find a similar product offered in germany...
Marco
Those attenuators are just a voltage divider in the rca plug... You could just buy 4 resistors and do the same thing for a lot less $$$. Another way to do this is to put a resistor before the volume pot, which will increase it's attenuation. Also, the input resistors set gain on the Trends, so you might be able to get enough attenuation by replacing those resistors. If you increase their value you can also decrease the value of the coupling caps without rolling off the lows.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider
To figure out the attenuation in decibels, use the last formula before the examples.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel
nightyy said:
Just what i had searched for, I have already requested shipment to germany, as the online shop doesn't offer that.
And I am still confused I couldn't find a similar product offered in germany...
Marco
I don't know if these ship to Germany, cheap tho'
Attenuators
ok....
Just had one of these amps arrive yesterday, and I cannot believe the quality of sound I am getting, even out of the box! perhaps it is just a chance good match for my FE206EN in Sachiko cabinets, but I am sure I do not care why!! My valve amp will soon be going up for sale!
I can't wait to get the soldering iron out! oh, btw, the input caps must have been changed, they are not the same as the ones I have seen on various sites.
Steve.
Edited to add...
Almost forgot to mention, I have 4 X 17Ah SLA batteries waiting to be charged....just going to order a good quality charger / conditioner...oh the suspense!
Just had one of these amps arrive yesterday, and I cannot believe the quality of sound I am getting, even out of the box! perhaps it is just a chance good match for my FE206EN in Sachiko cabinets, but I am sure I do not care why!! My valve amp will soon be going up for sale!
I can't wait to get the soldering iron out! oh, btw, the input caps must have been changed, they are not the same as the ones I have seen on various sites.
Steve.
Edited to add...
Almost forgot to mention, I have 4 X 17Ah SLA batteries waiting to be charged....just going to order a good quality charger / conditioner...oh the suspense!
Max Power supply voltage?
According to the 6moons review on the TA 10.1 the maximum power supply voltage is 14 volts. I have a Pyramid PS9KX Power Supply which is 13.8 VDC (5A) sitting around that I'd like to try.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=120-534
Trouble is that it measures about 14.2 volts according to my crappy RS multimeter. FWIW the stock 12V PS measures 13 volts on the meter.
Is this asking for trouble or should I be OK?
BTW I'm using the amp as a power amp on a pair of Altec 288K compression drivers / Mantaray horns from 500hz on up (105db/w/m). Sound is wonderful now that I corrected the polarity reversal which was causing a dip at the xover frequency.
According to the 6moons review on the TA 10.1 the maximum power supply voltage is 14 volts. I have a Pyramid PS9KX Power Supply which is 13.8 VDC (5A) sitting around that I'd like to try.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=120-534
Trouble is that it measures about 14.2 volts according to my crappy RS multimeter. FWIW the stock 12V PS measures 13 volts on the meter.
Is this asking for trouble or should I be OK?
BTW I'm using the amp as a power amp on a pair of Altec 288K compression drivers / Mantaray horns from 500hz on up (105db/w/m). Sound is wonderful now that I corrected the polarity reversal which was causing a dip at the xover frequency.
You might be asking for trouble, but the chips are overvoltage and thermally protected, I believe. Try it and if it seems to be shutting down, it's probably the supply. Your supply just might be showing a higher voltage because (I'm assuming) there's no load on it.
Do be sure to put a heat sink on the Tripath chip. The little ones meant for computer memory seem to work fine.
--Buckapound
Do be sure to put a heat sink on the Tripath chip. The little ones meant for computer memory seem to work fine.
--Buckapound
Buckapound said:
Thanks for the quick response Buckapound. I gave it a go and so far no overheating, but I'll keep and eye on it and install a heat sink sooner rather than later.
And yes the voltage measurements were taken sans load.
There's seems to be a difference in sound - highs are clearer and more pronounced and sound stage apears to be larger, but I'm wondering if the amps output is higher when driven with a higher voltage PS?
Power supply
Hello, new to this forum and DIY. There has been a lot of good information on the Trends 10.1. So I have done a search but I could never find an answer to the question about how to bypass the power jack and switch. I would like to connect a SNP 8080 that I have directly to the board of the 10.1 in a new enclosure. A first grade version of the answer would be appreciated as I have very little skills in electronics or of reading schematics. Thanks in advance for any help.
Hello, new to this forum and DIY. There has been a lot of good information on the Trends 10.1. So I have done a search but I could never find an answer to the question about how to bypass the power jack and switch. I would like to connect a SNP 8080 that I have directly to the board of the 10.1 in a new enclosure. A first grade version of the answer would be appreciated as I have very little skills in electronics or of reading schematics. Thanks in advance for any help.
Re: Mono?
I have a question about bridging mono:
By jumping l/r together, thereby making the amp a mono block, would you have to jump the + from one channel to the other at the speaker connections to get the full wattage benefit, jump - on one channel to the + of the other channel, os some other method?
sure, by jumping the amp mono, you can get the benefit of a bi-amp system, but what about a true single out put mono amp?
jonclancy said:Hi Guys,
What a great idea - and well in keeping with the flexible design philosophy of this amp!!
I've had a quick look at this using the J2 diagram on Pano's excellent site on the TA-10 input mods page. Whichever way you wish to configure your jumpers (with or without volume pot), a staple across J2 #position 2L/R (signal in pins) should do the job.
What do you reckon? No soldering required in the amp either if you mod a couple of jumpers with a staple across them before fitting.
Cheers
Jon
I have a question about bridging mono:
By jumping l/r together, thereby making the amp a mono block, would you have to jump the + from one channel to the other at the speaker connections to get the full wattage benefit, jump - on one channel to the + of the other channel, os some other method?
sure, by jumping the amp mono, you can get the benefit of a bi-amp system, but what about a true single out put mono amp?
Re-routing Signal Path
This is a question on input signal routing as a mod (Tweak Kit II by Audiomagus.)
Wouldn't it be easier to run the shielded cable straight from the RCA bind post straight to J2 on pins 1? That would eliminate the need to drill (block) the original signal trace on the PCB or run the wires underneath the board. Of course, the small RF caps can be replaced with axial type at the RCA socket and the connection to J2 using standard (PC board-type) 2-pin connector. That way, if there is a need to bypass the pot, then the signal wires can be connected directly to J2 pins 3.
The new jumper config would then be: Using pot; signal wires to pins 1 and short pins 3 & 4 and as power amp; signal wires to pins 3, rest all open.
This is a question on input signal routing as a mod (Tweak Kit II by Audiomagus.)
Wouldn't it be easier to run the shielded cable straight from the RCA bind post straight to J2 on pins 1? That would eliminate the need to drill (block) the original signal trace on the PCB or run the wires underneath the board. Of course, the small RF caps can be replaced with axial type at the RCA socket and the connection to J2 using standard (PC board-type) 2-pin connector. That way, if there is a need to bypass the pot, then the signal wires can be connected directly to J2 pins 3.
The new jumper config would then be: Using pot; signal wires to pins 1 and short pins 3 & 4 and as power amp; signal wires to pins 3, rest all open.
Attachments
bremen said:
It is hard to be sure depending on your tastes and the level of your source/preamp. I had no problems with 83db speakers in a small room, which seemed to be louder than some 86db speakers I have. I can only assume the sensitivity ratings are not entirely accurate within the same frequencies.
Davec113 said:
Omegas? Full Range? I'm having problem with the Trends driving a Fostex FE103E in a TQWT enclosure. It sounds very hollow and thin. A cheap push pull tube amp sounded more normal.
Then again, the tube amp could not drive a normal multiway speakers (PSB) but the Trends could.
The Fostex are driven straight through, no crossover or BSC network. I read on TNT that tube amps prefer to drive speakers without the additional passive components. Is this also true about FR drivers? (Err do they prefer to be driven by amps without Zobel network built-in.) If this is so, do I take out the Zobel circuitry on the Trends to drive the Fostex?
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