[I've not seen anybody put a value on it's sound, or place it in any league with recognisable competition. Except besides the 3116. It that's the closest measure, perhaps we know enough.[/QUOTE]
I have many amplifiers, 30 or more, and the TPA3255 is in another league from the 3116. Most of the amplifiers I have built are class A SS and tubes. Firstwatt clones and tube amplifiers such as SE300B, SE45 and a couple of SE-El34. The 3255 is an amp I could live with and not miss anything. I do prefer some of my other amplifiers over it but only by a small measure.
I have many amplifiers, 30 or more, and the TPA3255 is in another league from the 3116. Most of the amplifiers I have built are class A SS and tubes. Firstwatt clones and tube amplifiers such as SE300B, SE45 and a couple of SE-El34. The 3255 is an amp I could live with and not miss anything. I do prefer some of my other amplifiers over it but only by a small measure.
Thank you for the reply. I can see you're trying to help. Unfortunately these are not mainstream electronics that I recognise, or can put a simple price on. I did find 300b reviews though. Which suggest a muddy sound that tails off towards bass and treble extremes. Though again I have no measure of the reviewers expectations. I do see a price, but valve amps are boutique kit with a price that reflects desirability in ways other than how they sound.
I would like to hear how they compare to an Arcam/Nad/Niam/Pioneer/Marantz... Something reviewed by 'What HiFi' perhaps. Who's reviewers are fairly consistent, and hear a lot of equipment we are all familiar with.
I would also need to know which board is being reviewed.
I'm waiting for something from China that compares to a nad 370 / pioneer A400 / Arcam 8. The lower end of mid-range equipment. The stuff that sells in large volumes.
Thank you for your advice. It portrays an image of an amp that is way beyond my needs. I know the Arcam Solo is often compared to the Arcam 7 separates. So chip amps can do as I wish. Lesser chips apparently. But not on $10 boards from eBay. It's these Chinese implementations that really interest a lot of us. As can be seen by the many visitors just asking which to buy. What should our expectations be. I just can't tell.
I would like to hear how they compare to an Arcam/Nad/Niam/Pioneer/Marantz... Something reviewed by 'What HiFi' perhaps. Who's reviewers are fairly consistent, and hear a lot of equipment we are all familiar with.
I would also need to know which board is being reviewed.
I'm waiting for something from China that compares to a nad 370 / pioneer A400 / Arcam 8. The lower end of mid-range equipment. The stuff that sells in large volumes.
Thank you for your advice. It portrays an image of an amp that is way beyond my needs. I know the Arcam Solo is often compared to the Arcam 7 separates. So chip amps can do as I wish. Lesser chips apparently. But not on $10 boards from eBay. It's these Chinese implementations that really interest a lot of us. As can be seen by the many visitors just asking which to buy. What should our expectations be. I just can't tell.
TPA3255EVM vs an older NAD C320BEE (both as power amp only, also as integrated) was unfair from the first note. There were many classes between them, no contest at all. The NAD was enormously colored and muddy in comparison.
I've not had as many amps as many others here, but my wild guess is that a TPA3255EVM with the 50% rebate can equal many commercial poweramps at 7-8 times the price. At least I would'nt be surprised.
I've not had as many amps as many others here, but my wild guess is that a TPA3255EVM with the 50% rebate can equal many commercial poweramps at 7-8 times the price. At least I would'nt be surprised.
I'm waiting for something from China that compares to a nad 370 / pioneer A400 / Arcam 8. The lower end of mid-range equipment. The stuff that sells in large volumes.
[/QUOTE]
Do not get your expectations too high with the Chinese A/B amplifier clones. I've also built some of the Chinese A/B boards offered on Ebay and if one is not too critical they will suffice but in general I was disappointed. For a good deal on an A/B amplifier build try a Gainclone 3875 and save your money on Chinese clones. I have the Gainclone 3875 and also the Gainclone 3886 and both are audiophile quality.
The TPA3255 is cutting edge development in D amplification that gives a run against any price amplifier. Of course all this subjective discussion depends on the rest of your system and your hearing ability. The biggest selling music device these days are buds which are perfect for the masses.
[/QUOTE]
Do not get your expectations too high with the Chinese A/B amplifier clones. I've also built some of the Chinese A/B boards offered on Ebay and if one is not too critical they will suffice but in general I was disappointed. For a good deal on an A/B amplifier build try a Gainclone 3875 and save your money on Chinese clones. I have the Gainclone 3875 and also the Gainclone 3886 and both are audiophile quality.
The TPA3255 is cutting edge development in D amplification that gives a run against any price amplifier. Of course all this subjective discussion depends on the rest of your system and your hearing ability. The biggest selling music device these days are buds which are perfect for the masses.
I have both TPA3255, TPA3116 and TPA3118 (same chip as TPA3116) boards. I have tried to make sure that generous energy is available in the supply line decoupling capacitors. The TPA3118 boards got a much better output filter. The result is pure HiFi for all three boards.
No doubt, the TPA3255 is the best. It is just not so that I can immediately hear if it is not the TPA3255 board but one of the other.
All three chips have large potentials and the implementation is important. Evidently, if you buy a nice BMW and run in on 87 octane petrol, you don't benefit from the potential of the car.
Comparing sound quality is always very subjective. It depends on the person, the type of music, the speakers and even the mood. I appreciate very much when people give me their subjective opinion and I hold it in my memory for when I have a chance to listen myself. I do not take it as a fact unless the criticism is particularly explicit and strong.
I have absolutely no complaints about my TPA3255 performance. Only the price is considerably higher for a suitable implementation. If you stick to that chip, you are on the safe side.
But, I also appreciate my TPA3116/3118 boards as real value for money.
It seems the TPA324x chips will provide sound close to the TPA3255, less power and perhaps replace the TPA3116/3118 in the future. Excellent, if the price is right.
DYI amplifiers can beat far more expensive commercial products if the DIY amplifiers are properly constructed. Among other, because the commercial products often provide you with many features you do not really need.
No doubt, the TPA3255 is the best. It is just not so that I can immediately hear if it is not the TPA3255 board but one of the other.
All three chips have large potentials and the implementation is important. Evidently, if you buy a nice BMW and run in on 87 octane petrol, you don't benefit from the potential of the car.
Comparing sound quality is always very subjective. It depends on the person, the type of music, the speakers and even the mood. I appreciate very much when people give me their subjective opinion and I hold it in my memory for when I have a chance to listen myself. I do not take it as a fact unless the criticism is particularly explicit and strong.
I have absolutely no complaints about my TPA3255 performance. Only the price is considerably higher for a suitable implementation. If you stick to that chip, you are on the safe side.
But, I also appreciate my TPA3116/3118 boards as real value for money.
It seems the TPA324x chips will provide sound close to the TPA3255, less power and perhaps replace the TPA3116/3118 in the future. Excellent, if the price is right.
DYI amplifiers can beat far more expensive commercial products if the DIY amplifiers are properly constructed. Among other, because the commercial products often provide you with many features you do not really need.
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I found the 3118 boards that I bought did sound better than all the 3116's I have bought and tried. But with horns both the 3118 and 3116's sound somewhat thin, as if something was missing. As you said, subjective, but I agree both the 3118 and 3116 are a tremendous value for money spent. Right now I am using the 3118 boards driving my conventional kitchen speakers.
Why? Are you refering to the datasheets THD plot on the first side? These are measured on the EVM. So if they show somewhat better performance, this is due to a better/different EVM layout and/or a different test setup.
All the Akita Chips (325x/324x) are made from the same silicon design but distinguish in their output FET geometry size due to different maximum voltage levels. That's why the 3255 is having about 85mR RDSon while the i.E. 3245 features 65mR.
Look at their respective gains and when you back out an input-referred gain you get... (pretty much identical noise)
Have anyone measured the noise level on the 3e audio 3255 board?
I feel that this board has the ability to drive difficult speakers, and is doing a better job than other class AB amps that cost way more. My XTZ99.26 can become distorted at high levels with some amps, but not with this board.
I feel that this board has the ability to drive difficult speakers, and is doing a better job than other class AB amps that cost way more. My XTZ99.26 can become distorted at high levels with some amps, but not with this board.
I have one of those tpa3255 boards from Aiexpress (see pic), the sound is very good, but there are problems: the LEDs are always on, and there is a very loud pop sound at connecting and disconnecting the power.
What exactly can I do to fix the pop?
I have seen the png fix from doctormord, but I'm not an electro pro, I don't understand exactly what I must do.
Thanks
What exactly can I do to fix the pop?
I have seen the png fix from doctormord, but I'm not an electro pro, I don't understand exactly what I must do.
Thanks
What voltage does your supply provide?
You may use the SHUTDOWN function of the amp to mute while power-up/down.
I once made a fix for the blue PCB version like shown in the picture.
It's located on the right side next to the heatsink. If yours look different, send a picture of that region.
Wire a switch between these two points for manual muting the amp.
You may use the SHUTDOWN function of the amp to mute while power-up/down.
I once made a fix for the blue PCB version like shown in the picture.
It's located on the right side next to the heatsink. If yours look different, send a picture of that region.
Wire a switch between these two points for manual muting the amp.
Attachments
Thanks!!
My board is black but those components look the same.
I should connect them one moment with a wire and that will put the board in reset state, so I can connect and disconnect without pop?
Or do I keep those points temporally connected while connecting and disconnecting the PS?
My PS is 24V
My board is black but those components look the same.
I should connect them one moment with a wire and that will put the board in reset state, so I can connect and disconnect without pop?
Or do I keep those points temporally connected while connecting and disconnecting the PS?
My PS is 24V