Hi,
is your schematic of this amp done? would be very useful for me.
Thanks,
T
is your schematic of this amp done? would be very useful for me.
Thanks,
T
The cut-off is about 72Hz, it uses a Sallen Key filter with 2 x 22k resistors and 2 x 100n capacitors.
I am in the process of drawing up a schematic for the standard version of the amplifier. There is no high-pass filter in the L & R channels as their input is taken straight from the volume control. The sub channel is derived from the output the volume control via a summing amplifier.
The improved one looks to be basically he same circuit layout apart from the toroidal output inductors and larger decoupling capacitors. The input sockets have been mounted on the board together with a switch.
Each driver needs to be in an isolated chamber by itself.
In a 3-way speaker the woofer's sound pressure will be imparted on the midrange's cone distorting its sound. So the mid-range needs its own space. Most tweeters are self contained so they are not an issue.
Two woofers sharing the same space come into issues with the differences between the L-R channel program. Say a bass guitar is mostly recorded on the R channel while a piano is mostly recorded on the L channel. The difference between these signals will cause each woofer to impart its sound pressure on the other.
I don't think you want to angle the speakers out. I don't know of any speaker modeling s/w that supports that alignment. And, if there was a benefit, many commercial offerings would likely have done it.
That's why I said that each driver should have its own chamber, so the internal waves don't mix and interfere. Actually there's no need to build dedicated chamber for each loudspeaker, there are drivers that have a back enclosed. I don't know why you thought that thing about angling the directions of the loudspeakers, is not it like you have to modify anything, you simply are orienting their straight face to certain degree, so they are not "looking" straight at the front, but a little to the left and right, separating the stereo waves and so having a more remarkable stereo sound effect. This can be done thanks to the angle form of the board that has the mounting hole, you don't have to bend and or modify the speaker or something like that.
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Since the volume control is so close to the RCA inputs I had to extend the stem out the side of the case.
Using a right angle barrel plug adaptor instead of the straight one that came with the Volt+ I was able to fit everything inside the case I already had.
Using a right angle barrel plug adaptor instead of the straight one that came with the Volt+ I was able to fit everything inside the case I already had.

The Nobsound 12ax7 preamp I purchased on Amazon is an excellent match with the Volt+
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
12AX7 or ECC83 ?! Doesn't it have way too much gain ? You don't need any gain in this case. Many reduce gain to 20 dB (of the amp itself) when using TPA amps !
That's why I said that each driver should have its own chamber, so the internal waves don't mix and interfere. Actually there's no need to build dedicated chamber for each loudspeaker, there are drivers that have a back enclosed. I don't know why you thought that thing about angling the directions of the loudspeakers, is not it like you have to modify anything, you simply are orienting their straight face to certain degree, so they are not "looking" straight at the front, but a little to the left and right, separating the stereo waves and so having a more remarkable stereo sound effect. This can be done thanks to the angle form of the board that has the mounting hole, you don't have to bend and or modify the speaker or something like that.
Stereo topic:
Two speakers pointing in two different direction won't give you the stereo effect.
Stereo effect only appears with the sound coming from different directions towards the point where listener is.
2.1 topic:
In general bass needs much more power to reproduced than high notes.
One low-mid woofer has a hard time to play the levels that one high sensitivity tweeter or even a quite loud fr-speaker reprouces from only a few watts coming from the amplifier.
Then take into account that outdoors bass is much more complicated than it is indoors where one or two small subwoofers can shake a whole living room.
You will always have to make compromises with bass outdoors:
Be happy with 60Hz flat.
Carry around bigger enclosures and get 50Hz.
You want it louder: get bigger amps and carry much more batteries.
Fullrange speakers are a nice start for creating boomboxes.
Those Visaton FRS8 are good quality.
An additional subwoofer does not make any sense to me.
If there should be a big woofer, i'd change the whole concept.
But we cannot recommend PA-stuff to a guy asking for a compact boombox.
Outputimpedance of the 12ax7 cathodefollower in Nobsound probably is low enough to drive the 10k pot the ampboard has. For a cathodefollower it is considered poor choice though.
Hello. I am interested to create a log pot from a linear one by adding a resistor. Is there a simple tip how to achieve this? Thanks.
Hello. I am interested to create a log pot from a linear one by adding a resistor. Is there a simple tip how to achieve this? Thanks.
Hi, look at this:
ESP - A Better Volume Control
Outputimpedance of the 12ax7 cathodefollower in Nobsound probably is low enough to drive the 10k pot the ampboard has. For a cathodefollower it is considered poor choice though.
All I know is it works for me
😉
I put my board inside an old Sansui graphic equalaizer and is perfect combination.No hum no hiss even with bad wiring.Power supply is brick 22 v to 4Amp(need more amperage).
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Hi, a question about this chip. Given the fact that it seems there are not tpa3116 amplifier boards with bluetooth in a mono factor (only stereo), can i just use one channel, and leave the other channel without any load? Anyway it will demand to mix the two chnnels from the bluetooth module, so then a full signal is injected in a single channel, i found this more convenient than buyin mono amps and bluetooth module separately, i need this for small power sound, around 15w or 20w.
You can also try modding it into PBTL mode and make mono signal from stereo by using 2 resistors.
in my installation there are 4 meters of cable from the source to the board.
i can not changue, i put a ceiling speaker with the board amp and a wall source
i use shielded wire 3x0.35
connect the shield to negative pole of the audio input of the board? or vcc negative?
i can not changue, i put a ceiling speaker with the board amp and a wall source
i use shielded wire 3x0.35
connect the shield to negative pole of the audio input of the board? or vcc negative?
connect the shield to negative pole of the audio input of the board? or vcc negative?
Connect it to negative input, otherwise you will get noise.
A question about the capacitors of cheap boards. I read that most of them are defective, is that true? Or simply they use lowers value than showed on the capacitor labels?
nicasiox2;48784 A question about the capacitors of cheap boards. I read that most of them are defective said:A friend of mine bought a board like this:
TPA3116D2 2X50W DC 5-24V Digital Amplifier Board Class D Dual Channel Stereo AMP | eBay
With a simple cheap SMPS. The noise was awful when input is plugged but no music is playing. We changed the caps to Rubycon YXA and it went down significantly. So noise is one thing, and reliability/safety is another. I've read that some are swelling within 2 weeks of use, anyway I always change any caps that came with the board with a decent Panasonic or something.
Connect it to negative input, otherwise you will get noise.
A question about the capacitors of cheap boards. I read that most of them are defective, is that true? Or simply they use lowers value than showed on the capacitor labels?
Ok thansks in source board or amp board??
Ok thansks in source board or amp board??
On amp board, if you are using a shielded signal cable that has 3 wires, the naked wire should be ground, simply connect that wire on - of the input.
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