TPA3116D2 Amp

Check your car doesn't connect the -ve of the speakers together somewhere, use a multimeter to confirm that each speaker lead is independent. I had a car (old E30 BMW) where there was a common ground for all the speakers....

Thank you for responding.
Acoustics new, I checked the usual amplifier car everything works well. Once the house heard how these chips, I wanted to just throw the car amplifier. when the vehicle runs are distortions.
And more small power without a power supply. Please tell me a good power supply for these circuits.
I wanted to ask more can buy just such a fee (TPA3116D2 high power car trolley power amplifier 50W power amplifier Board with boost ACC control) I read that the guys buy it, but the reviews did not find any sound she makes is good or bad, and whether there is a distortion and crosstalk.
 
Thank you for responding.
Acoustics new, I checked the usual amplifier car everything works well. Once the house heard how these chips, I wanted to just throw the car amplifier. when the vehicle runs are distortions.
And more small power without a power supply. Please tell me a good power supply for these circuits.
I wanted to ask more can buy just such a fee (TPA3116D2 high power car trolley power amplifier 50W power amplifier Board with boost ACC control) I read that the guys buy it, but the reviews did not find any sound she makes is good or bad, and whether there is a distortion and crosstalk.

Interesting board can step up the input 12V to 22~24V, to achieve greater power to speaker.
 
Hum issues, part 2; power-off pop

A while back in this massive thread I was fighting some hum (presumably ground loop) issues with my dual-mono DUG-1 build with Jensen JT-11P-1 input transformers. At the time I definitely had some upstream component issues, but I think those have been resolved.

Current state is that the amp has only the faintest hum, as in: ears need to be right up to the speaker to hear it. I can live with it, but it could be part of a bigger problem. However, when connected to my DAC, a Soekris dam1021 implementation, the hum gets noticeably worse when the DAC is powered on.

You might say, "sounds like a problem with the DAC". Well, I tested the same DAC with two other amps, no hum.

The other thing this amp does which is weird: when I power off (i.e. remove AC power) there is a scary-sounding "pop". It's actually more of a "crackling" sound. These tpa311x amps in general seem to have on/off pops when used with input coupling capacitors. That's one of the benefits of using input transformers instead (which is what I'm doing). So I'm familiar with the typical power on/off "thump"; what I'm hearing is a very different sound. Sounds like electricity arcing.

The hum-with-the-DAC plus the power-off crackle makes me think there is still something amiss with my wiring. Any thoughts? Where to look first?
 
I am not sure about the DUG board and it will probably be different in your scenario with a input transformer. To avoid turn on/off pop with the chinese board with I am using, I always make sure the source is powered on (my pre-amp) before I turn the amp on or off. No pop or hiss when my setup is operated like this however the speakers I am using are 83dB sensitivity and the board is using low capacitance input coupling.

Good luck, hope you can solve this problem soon!
 
A while back in this massive thread I was fighting some hum (presumably ground loop) issues with my dual-mono DUG-1 build with Jensen JT-11P-1 input transformers. At the time I definitely had some upstream component issues, but I think those have been resolved.

Current state is that the amp has only the faintest hum, as in: ears need to be right up to the speaker to hear it. I can live with it, but it could be part of a bigger problem. However, when connected to my DAC, a Soekris dam1021 implementation, the hum gets noticeably worse when the DAC is powered on.

You might say, "sounds like a problem with the DAC". Well, I tested the same DAC with two other amps, no hum.

The other thing this amp does which is weird: when I power off (i.e. remove AC power) there is a scary-sounding "pop". It's actually more of a "crackling" sound. These tpa311x amps in general seem to have on/off pops when used with input coupling capacitors. That's one of the benefits of using input transformers instead (which is what I'm doing). So I'm familiar with the typical power on/off "thump"; what I'm hearing is a very different sound. Sounds like electricity arcing.

The hum-with-the-DAC plus the power-off crackle makes me think there is still something amiss with my wiring. Any thoughts? Where to look first?

I have a 2.1TPA3116 based amp. During modification and testing, I had removed the PS bypass caps. No turn on/off pop. Once I replaced the caps, then there was turn-off pop. Now I use the built in standby switch before powering off.
 
I am not really into pop on power on or off, but crack is only normal on Sure3116. So with dugs I would indeed be looking at anything happening befor the dug poweramp, the poweramp will amplify anything it receives. So if damdac stays powered you also hear crack when dugs power off ?
 
I am not sure about the DUG board and it will probably be different in your scenario with a input transformer. To avoid turn on/off pop with the chinese board with I am using, I always make sure the source is powered on (my pre-amp) before I turn the amp on or off. No pop or hiss when my setup is operated like this however the speakers I am using are 83dB sensitivity and the board is using low capacitance input coupling.

Indeed, the source/amp power-up/down sequence is what I typically use. Now that you mention it, I'm doubting whether or not the source component (DAC in my case) was powered on or off when I turned off the amp. I'll double-check and report back.

The main thing is, though, this pop is unlike any I've ever heard (from an amp anyway). Like I said, it's more of a "crackle" sound. Think of lightning that is nearby, that distinctive sound of electricity arcing.

(On a completely unrelated note, have you read Stephen King's The Stand? Every time I see your username, it makes me think of the character Trash Can Man.)

I have a 2.1TPA3116 based amp. During modification and testing, I had removed the PS bypass caps. No turn on/off pop. Once I replaced the caps, then there was turn-off pop. Now I use the built in standby switch before powering off.

So you're suggesting the power supply caps are responsible for power-on/off pop? I haven't changed anything on that front, and this phenomenon is rather recent. But I can't seem to tie it to any particular change...
 
Experiences with a few TPA31xx boards

This week I have installed and listened to four different TPA31xx boards.
The boards were all unmodded, fed 19V DC from a laptop power supply, hooked up to small B&W speakers (and a separate woofer for the 2.1 versions), and listened at near field (1-2m max) to jazz music via internet radio, foobar2000, Sabre DAC through my laptop.


My experiences:

So far my experiences with TPA31xx straight out of the box are rather disappointing and my old simple TA2024 blows away each of these TPA31xx. It has been said in this thread before, if one looks at the low prices of these assembled boards made in China, it is almost impossible to build a quality board for this money including free shipment all over the world. The huge number of sellers and hence the murderous competition lower the prices and quality even further. I also made the “mistake” to go for cheap boards.

I know from this thread that with proper modding the sound quality may be greatly improved, but modding is simply not my thing. I just want a board that is working properly right out of the box. Any recommendations (see also below)?

In order to guide newbee's like me who want a good start with TPA3116 without the direct hassle of going into modding, I would welcome in the Wiki page on the TPA3116 by “blossom”, addition of a separate heading of complete boards of proven quality. Is member “blossom” still reading this thread? Ok, I'll adress this question also on the Wiki site.


Is this the end of my TPA31xx story? ....not yet. I still want to build a proper 2.1 system for my radio.
In a final attempt I have ordered, based on the favourable comments about these boards right out of the box,
TPA3116 dual channel board:
2*100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino
a TPA3116 mono board:
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono 100W Digital Power Amplifier Board for Motorcycle Car
and a low pass 2.1 pre-amp board :
New DC 12V-24V Low-pass Filter NE5532 Subwoofer 2.1CH Pre-Amplifier Preamp Board


I'll keep you informed.
 
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If you want quality, look to Doctormord and Gmarsh IMO. Both respected members producing small quantities of boards/amps.

Other than that....
I've had good experiences with the dual chip and the "Breeze" AKA "HIFI new 2.0 blah blah blah". Though apparently, the dual chip is limited by small solder traces in the power outputs and some have had issues with noise when using later copies (?!?) of the Breeze.

I currently have 4xTPA3118 "Sanwu" mono boards lying around begging me daily to build an enclosure for them and some speakers to drive. 🙂

J.
 
So a capacitor exploded on a $3.20 ampboard and you decided to replace it by the $4.70 version of same producer that has two additional capacitors of the exploding type and an additional heatsink and "tpa3116" chip. Yes that will give you an impression of "tpa3116", made by them.
 
This week I have installed and listened to four different TPA31xx boards.
The boards were all unmodded, fed 19V DC from a laptop power supply, hooked up to small B&W speakers (and a separate woofer for the 2.1 versions), and listened at near field (1-2m max) to jazz music via internet radio, foobar2000, Sabre DAC through my laptop.


My experiences:

YJ TPA3116 2.1 2*50W+100W Class D amplifier completed board
As long as you don't turn up either of the volume pots the sound is muffled. When you do turn up, a “sizzle” sound starts in the stereo and subwoofer channels that is very annoying.
A GLI (Ground Loop Isolator) put in the signal line did not much to improve things.

I have this board. And it has performed very well for me. Having said that, my hearing in the upper freq.'s is not great so maybe I don't hear the sizzle.

You might try the Sure Electronics boards. Just slightly more expensive but a more reputable mfg.
 
This week I have installed and listened to four different TPA31xx boards.
The boards were all unmodded, fed 19V DC from a laptop power supply, hooked up to small B&W speakers (and a separate woofer for the 2.1 versions), and listened at near field (1-2m max) to jazz music via internet radio, foobar2000, Sabre DAC through my laptop.


My experiences:

So far my experiences with TPA31xx straight out of the box are rather disappointing and my old simple TA2024 blows away each of these TPA31xx. It has been said in this thread before, if one looks at the low prices of these assembled boards made in China, it is almost impossible to build a quality board for this money including free shipment all over the world. The huge number of sellers and hence the murderous competition lower the prices and quality even further. I also made the “mistake” to go for cheap boards.

I know from this thread that with proper modding the sound quality may be greatly improved, but modding is simply not my thing. I just want a board that is working properly right out of the box. Any recommendations (see also below)?

In order to guide newbee's like me who want a good start with TPA3116 without the direct hassle of going into modding, I would welcome in the Wiki page on the TPA3116 by “blossom”, addition of a separate heading of complete boards of proven quality. Is member “blossom” still reading this thread? Ok, I'll adress this question also on the Wiki site.


Is this the end of my TPA31xx story? ....not yet. I still want to build a proper 2.1 system for my radio.
In a final attempt I have ordered, based on the favourable comments about these boards right out of the box,
TPA3116 dual channel board:
2*100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V for Arduino
a TPA3116 mono board:
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono 100W Digital Power Amplifier Board for Motorcycle Car
and a low pass 2.1 pre-amp board :
New DC 12V-24V Low-pass Filter NE5532 Subwoofer 2.1CH Pre-Amplifier Preamp Board


I'll keep you informed.

The SMAKN brand boards are good. The best low cost boards however are Sanwu 3118 PBTL monoblock. Sure brand is good.

Of course the DrMord, Gmarsh, or DUG amps are all excellent but won't be as inexpensive.
 
Hi all. I have a few questions regarding the 15 watt Sure TPA 3110 board. I read this entire thread as it then stood over a two week period last summer, and have read the last 200 or so posts just recently, but there are a few things I'm still not sure of. FYI, I have basic electronics knowledge and I can use a soldering iron, but I'm about 30 years out of practice, so SMDs and the like are probably not an option.


  1. What is the gain on this board, and can I reduce it? If so, how? I'm using JRiver to control the volume through software, which I know is not ideal. I never go above -20db, so I could afford to lose a considerable amount of gain and still have headroom. I don't really want to add a pot or a preamp, but that may be the best solution.
  2. Is this board optimized for 8ohm speakers, and if not what should I change so that it will be?
  3. What are the recommended mods on this board, and do they make a substantial improvement? I have some 2200uF and 470uF Panasonic caps I had bought based on recommendations on this thread for this amp's predecessor, an 8w 3110 that died soon after it arrived. I can't determine if these are still the recommended caps for the second gen board or if I should be using the Oscons recommended for the 3116, or something else entirely. I've also got some ferrites, but I don't believe these are necessary since I'm no longer using the original 8W 3110 board. What about the bootstrap snubber mod that gets recommended for pretty much every 3316 and 3118 board?
  4. Recommended power supplies? I know this is a contentious question, and considering how good it sounds with my crappy little 12v 2A wall wart that I had sitting around, I don't think I can justify spending $50+ on a power supply, but I could be convinced otherwise. I suspect a good power brick is going to be fine for my ears and budget, however.
  5. Thanks to anyone who takes the time and effort to answer any of my questions. This is an amazing little amp. In very unscientific A/B testing, it sounded very nearly as good with these speakers as their former owner's expensive 2A3 SET amp did, and much better than a modded LePai Tripath.