TPA3116D2 Amp

I refer to the bucket concept. Small enclosures needs big air displacement drivers, which usually results in poor efficiency.

To shake the rooms here, I have a 12" 120l BR enclosure, powered by 80W Servo-controlled Yamaha, or a front loaded (actually cut down) horn. 30-50W are sufficient. (12" are 8R noname)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443357041.298461.jpg
 
According to my personal experience the YJ black&blue board is a waste of time and money. The "official version" is even worst especially the board quality. From all the TPA3116D2 boards that I've tried this is the last one in the list. Any other board is a better choice. (and there are many)

Hi,
I am quite surprised about your feedback about the YJ black&blue board, I have read couple of treads about people which seams to be quite happy about the this board. I thought that with just few mods, should be enough to get a good amp.

Can you recommend something else ?, that is on top in your list.?

What about adding 2 pot at the line input to get the option to adjust the right and left speaker separetely, do you see any problems doing that.?
 
Hi,
I am quite surprised about your feedback about the YJ black&blue board, I have read couple of treads about people which seams to be quite happy about the this board. I thought that with just few mods, should be enough to get a good amp.

Can you recommend something else ?, that is on top in your list.?

What about adding 2 pot at the line input to get the option to adjust the right and left speaker separetely, do you see any problems doing that.?

First in my list is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/257996-gb-tpa3116-8-pbtl-bare-pcb.html
I don't know if there are still available at least bare boards, you can ask.
My experience with them and what other boards(Sure, YBDZ, Audiobah...) I liked is here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-812.html#post4463785
 
Hi,
I am quite surprised about your feedback about the YJ black&blue board, I have read couple of treads about people which seams to be quite happy about the this board. I thought that with just few mods, should be enough to get a good amp.

Can you recommend something else ?, that is on top in your list.?

What about adding 2 pot at the line input to get the option to adjust the right and left speaker separetely, do you see any problems doing that.?

Main attraction of the "blue" board seems to be its well documented upgrade path.

I have the dual chip and the WLX and they're both fine. if buying now, I'd buy the dual chip as the backplane is "free". i.e., roll your own case using your own power/RCA/speaker terminals. As a boxed option though, the "Breeze Audio" (WLX) 2.0 is good value at around £22.
 
YJ Blue/Black

I am surprised every time somebody buys the YJblueblack, I feel it has been mentioned over and over again that all parts are poor, layout is poor, result is very poor.



If anyone wants mine they can have it for the postage! The YJ 2.0 Red board trounces it in every way. And I mean the stock YJ Red.

The Blue Black was a waste of $14 or so. It's lifeless and just not good. And I would rather not spend time or money trying to turn this pig into a princess.

MW
 
Sure3116 still has c7 and c22, you can remove those two, just 1nF parts so no major change, but audible probably because between positive and negative outputs.

This is the first mod that i read about.
What else can i do to re-treat that board?

I do not like three things about this board:

1. The turn on popp too much.
2. It runs hot. (Maybe the small inductors are to blame. I have exactly the same issue with the blue TDA7492, which has very similar inductors.)
3. It allows for the lowest volume levels from all 3116 boards i know.
 
1. agree for turn off pop only
2. tpachip runs cooler than other chinese ampboards, just remove heatcollector called heatsink🙂 I have Wurths inductors on this ampboard.
3. don't know what you mean

2. I ran my yj boards without heatsinks without any problem.
But this one is really hot.
I don't like how the heatsink covers the inductors enough to not allow for an replacement, but enough to have any cooling effects on them (and it looks like s**t).
Inductor replacement was my initial idea.
What is the technical term for the size of the inductors/solder pad spacing they use?
I would like to match the filters with my speakers.
Do you know about the capacitor values in the output filters?

3. I first recognized that when i replaced a 'fully modded' black yj with the Sure board in the same setup.
Maximum volume became much lower.

🙂(...maybe something is wrong with my board..?)
 
better check r16/r17, 100k/20k, and check with dmm. maybe another part is placed wrong, I had wrong part in one bootstrapsnubber
c11=470nF c12=1nF c4=100nF (one output example)

wurths are little higher so need to sand off an edge if you remount heatsink, I don't get into conditions the chip needs heatsink