Something like this, 13.8 V/DC?
I'm also thinking to order one of these Voltcraft's from Germany, but older models that have heat sink at the back. Those from the new series, available in Croatia, have fan at the back that I don't prefer.
OK, thanks, now I know what you based this on.
But now I wonder how Rhing based his statement on.
I just got it, and have been using it for a different application that uses around 2 amps at 12 VDC, and it just gets a little warm. I don't have a 1.5 ohm, 100 watt resistor to load my Astron with.
Randy
This amp needs some breaking in. Very nice improvement after 16 hours of Break-In CD under a load.
These boards aren't really made for modding, but if you are handy with the soldering iron, replace the three 220uF electrolytics per side with a pair of 330uF Oscons.... very much worth the cost and effort. (this applies to both the SURE 3116 and the new style 3110.
Attachments
I was hoping somebody would try a cap swap for these new Sure boards!
For the 3110 board which has four 220uF electroyitics per side, does it matter which position the 330uF Oscons occupy? Also, are the rest just left open? I actually have 4 of the Oscons already😀 so I am eager to try this! BTW/ the new 3110 really sounds pretty good without mods!
Page 10 of the datasheet has useful graphs for computing max power needed.
Using the upper-right graph, maximum output power at 4ohm load, 26dB gain, BTL mode for 14V power supply is about 25 watts (and that's at 10% THD, unlikely anyone would ever want to listen at that level). Multiply by two for two channels, so say 50 watts total output power.
Using the graph just below that, the efficiency should be around 85%, but let's call it 80% just to be conservative.
50/.8 = 62.5 Watts of input power. For a 14V power supply, that works out to about 4.5 Amps. (Cut that in half if using 8 ohm speakers.)
Stock, those Astron PSUs are 13.8V, though they are adjustable (forget the range offhand). But being able to supply five amps continuous should be more than enough. (But do look at the graphs: the amp can pull more current when using a higher voltage power supply. I calculate just over 8 amps for 26V PSU.)
They are all in parallel so it really doesn't matter which locations. If you use the 25V parts as I have, don't exceed the rated voltage (I'd keep it at 22-23) I use a nice adjustable regulated power supply that I built for myself and am running it at 23V.
Thanks for the quick reply... I wondered if keeping them closest to chip was important? I am using an Astron (13.8v) PS so the 25V caps should be safe, but thanks for the warning.
@Jadran
yes, exactly - I'll also get an older model with (advertised 10A) - should be here either tomorrow or the day after.
yes, exactly - I'll also get an older model with (advertised 10A) - should be here either tomorrow or the day after.
joeoz, I had that popping symptom when I accidentally soldered a short between + and - outputs. I belive it also can happen when the outputs are shorted to anything else too.. I just used the beeping function on the multimeter to find the short.. Should be easy enough to find the error so good luck🙂
Regarding the preferences in psu I've tried them all.. If you have a stock board it will pick up noise from the psu. If you keep everything small and close to the chip it will be quiter with clearer mids and treble. If you decide to go BIG I would not use a power brick. I would also use bootstrap snubbers to keep the RF noise from hitting the input side. Just my 2 cents..
Regarding the preferences in psu I've tried them all.. If you have a stock board it will pick up noise from the psu. If you keep everything small and close to the chip it will be quiter with clearer mids and treble. If you decide to go BIG I would not use a power brick. I would also use bootstrap snubbers to keep the RF noise from hitting the input side. Just my 2 cents..
Last edited:
That's what I did with the 3116... I replaced the ones closest to the chip. On the 3110, the odd pair towards the center may have the shortest path to the chip. I'll have to check.
It appears stupid simple. But what is unique about is that it has AC filtration post transformer. It's not an unfamiliar thing, an LC, but this one is more intelligent than typical. The CMC is dampened, and the capacitors are tuned specifically with it to a more agreeable frequency.
But I'm very set on parts selection. I can tell you that MSR860 diodes will make an improvement with these amps for sure. Again it's going to be setup for high end caps.
Regulation may or may not work with the AC filtration. My test rig, well I can confirm that the AC filtration has made perhaps the most significant impact in ability to listen with my personal 3116. The PVCC caps were a nice upgrade, and the linear was a step up, but not until I applied some AC filtration did it start to sing.
Hi Destroyer OS,
Can i clarify that you apply a common mode choke in the secondary of the transformer??
thanks
Can i clarify that you apply a common mode choke in the secondary of the transformer??
thanks
Besides MSR860 , is there other alternative ?
The MSR860 is not available from Mouser
I used a regulated linear power with LM338.
The MSR860 is not available from Mouser
I used a regulated linear power with LM338.
Yes I am using a CMC, common mode choke on the secondary. But it won't work well without some film caps(plural) and dampening. Unfortunately CMC's are too problematic by themselves in this use. I mean it does work without, but the results aren't anything to write home about.
There's over 300 at Mouser.
There's over 300 at Mouser.
Bit confused as to where the CMC is in the circuit. Are you able to show a circuit diagram please?
Well I got greedy after successfully replacing the power caps and gain resistors to 20db but then tried to replace the bootstrap caps on a YJ Blue Board and messed the whole board up for good, I am afraid. First off, those darn things did not come out easy. I tried all the tricks but the solder would not wick up, even with some lead solder added. I finally prevailed and added the new .22uf 250v X7R caps but then I realized I had ripped out one of the solder pads. No sound. Is it a lost cause at this point?
I was building a nice tube hybrid with the 6n3 tube preamp mentioned in this thread. I also picked up an Astron PS. The sound was awesome but I did notice some graininess in the vocals, so I thought the bootstraps were an essential mod. I shudder at the thought of trying this again. I have to stick with the Danzz board because I need to keep the gain down with the tube preamp. Any thoughts?
I was building a nice tube hybrid with the 6n3 tube preamp mentioned in this thread. I also picked up an Astron PS. The sound was awesome but I did notice some graininess in the vocals, so I thought the bootstraps were an essential mod. I shudder at the thought of trying this again. I have to stick with the Danzz board because I need to keep the gain down with the tube preamp. Any thoughts?
Perhaps you can scrape away a bit of the trace leading to the bootstrap cap and solder a small bit of wire to connect the bootstrap cap lead to the trace. With Chinese-manufactured boards, I don't even bother using a solder wick. I just use a solder sucking tool with my iron to clear out the thru-holes. These boards just aren't robust enough to handle much heat, and the lead-free solder that Yuan Jing uses doesn't reflow for anything. Sometimes, I've even had to use a steel pin held with my pliers and ream open the thru-holes while using the soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder.
Now that makes sense. Thanks! Glad to know I am not the only one who thinks this is a pain in the a%$. I will try to follow your suggestion or maybe even wire directly to the pin of the chip?
Sometimes I just don't remove solder period... I just add some leaded. Although if possible I may cut off the component and just remove the lead. Then the replacement if whick doesn't work at all, is just heat side to side until it's in. It's a very delicate process because you can do damage easily by prying or overheating.
Just saying there are ways....
Just saying there are ways....