Five days from China,that is very good time.Well got it set up I am going to be pushing it at 24 volts@4amps to burn it in,it has been playing for a couple hours now and no heat detected at all.this is the 2.1 version but i am just using 2.0 at the moment.going to do the sub later.this little amp is amazing I have it at 7 o'clock 9 o'clock is loud,i cant imagine going all the way to 4 o'clock.I was not expecting it to have so much power.It sounds crystal clear.I am going to run it bare while it burns in and I finish the case.boy I have to say I underestimated this amp,it is that and more.
yes, minimum impedance 1.6 ohm for PBTL, power is ~120 watt at 2 ohm with 24v (1% thd+noise) figure 22 TI datasheet
LifePO4 are nice batteries, but some people still say the right capacitors are prefered, as all batteries make some noise and it gets lowered with capacitors.
Ah, yes that could be it. I will try replacing the 1uf input caps with 10uf.
X, my sub works fine with my TA2020 amp, and even setting the sub's volume to 1/3 is plenty. But with my TPA6112 connected, 100% volume on the sub doesn't produce much bass at all.
BTW, what are the 'modders' recommended caps to use here? Datasheet mentions electrolytic, tantalum or ceramic, although I've read some using poly. Also, I assume that only the two positive (L+ and R+) input caps needs to be replaced and not the two negative (L- and R-) input caps?
Thanks,
Joe
for flat bass down to 20Hz, you are supposed to set cut off filter at @2Hz.
to attain those settings, datasheet recommends following input cap values for the 4 selectable gain settings:
gain cap cutoff
20db - 1.5 uF - 1.8
26db - 3.3 uF - 1.6
32db - 5.6 uF - 2.3
36db - 10 uF - 1.8
It also mentions that if a 3db cut at 20Hz is acceptable you can use slightly lower cap values (specifically says 1uF at 20db gain setting.)
page 15 here: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
I have the Dannz blue YJ board set at 26db gain. it has a WIMA MKP10 cap 1uF for inputs as per Rhing's list of mods and BOM.
Sounds fine, but my speakers are not getting 20Hz I am sure (Dayton b652s)
to attain those settings, datasheet recommends following input cap values for the 4 selectable gain settings:
gain cap cutoff
20db - 1.5 uF - 1.8
26db - 3.3 uF - 1.6
32db - 5.6 uF - 2.3
36db - 10 uF - 1.8
It also mentions that if a 3db cut at 20Hz is acceptable you can use slightly lower cap values (specifically says 1uF at 20db gain setting.)
page 15 here: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
I have the Dannz blue YJ board set at 26db gain. it has a WIMA MKP10 cap 1uF for inputs as per Rhing's list of mods and BOM.
Sounds fine, but my speakers are not getting 20Hz I am sure (Dayton b652s)
No, you should replace all 4 caps for ones with the same value. Too bad the small ones are 5 mm pitch. If you want to stick to film caps and you want 10 µF then Wima MKS2-XL in 10 µF 16V are a possibility. You could use MKS2 10 µF in 22,5 mm pitch for the large ones. I have started a new project with the blue board and used 2.2 µF Wima MKS2 caps on both positions.
I'm torn between modding the YJ TPA3116 board or leaving it stock. I'd love to see what it can really do, but I enjoy it as-is and don't want to risk ruining it. I'm sure I'll eventually cave to the impulse to mod, so I have a few questions for those of you've who've successfully modded the board.
- After you've removed a through-hole component from the PCB, how do you get the residual solder out of the hole?
- Which single mod made the most improvement?
- Any mods you attempted that, in hind sight, you wouldn't do again?
Don't be torn when simple choices have to be made. At this low price and with some experience there is not much risk. And if you would ruin it you can buy a new one. In fact for this price is might be clever to buy 2 if you want to compare to a stock board and to have a spare when you would ruin it. I use a desoldering tool for removing the parts. Yesterday I removed the filter caps and the input caps and then cleaned the board thoroughly as this one was delivered covered with debri. Removing the filter caps was easy but not as easy as removing caps that are soldered with tin/lead solder. A desoldering tool with vacuum pump simply sucks the tin out of the hole.
You want certainty based on opinions of others. It might be refreshing to be the one that tries out stuff and be the first to improve a device. Even if you ruin it you will have learnt things.
Anyway: replacing the 1000/25 caps for 1000/25 Panasonic FC/FM is a worthwile investment just like replacing the input caps for known good film caps of a slightly larger value. I used Pana FM 2200/25 for the second board I have but it is not finished yet so no report on improvement (or the contrary!).
You want certainty based on opinions of others. It might be refreshing to be the one that tries out stuff and be the first to improve a device. Even if you ruin it you will have learnt things.
Anyway: replacing the 1000/25 caps for 1000/25 Panasonic FC/FM is a worthwile investment just like replacing the input caps for known good film caps of a slightly larger value. I used Pana FM 2200/25 for the second board I have but it is not finished yet so no report on improvement (or the contrary!).
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To my ear, replacing the inductors brought the most benefit. Followed by the input caps. I swapped the inputs for a similar value.
Changing gain changes input impedance. You may end up wanting a buffer if you use the higher gain.
All good advice that I know to be true. Not that I'm an electronics whiz, but I can fail with the best of them!
Thanks for this tip. (I was kind of afraid someone would suggest this. The stock inductors look tricky to remove. On my board, one of the solder pads is totally obscured by an inductor).
Had I only be thinking when I placed my original order! Oh well, patience is a virtue and shippings free.
Speaker protection
Lower the capacity of the input filter of the protection board . If you have a schematic , post it , and I'll show you . From your picture it shows 100 uF 25 volts , so try halve or 47 uF . Read Rodd Elliots pages about speaker protection and you'll know what I mean .
Cheers ,
Rens
Lower the capacity of the input filter of the protection board . If you have a schematic , post it , and I'll show you . From your picture it shows 100 uF 25 volts , so try halve or 47 uF . Read Rodd Elliots pages about speaker protection and you'll know what I mean .
Cheers ,
Rens
Wow, This thread its going big!!!... it seems that the TPA3116 its the new lepai T2020!!!... a pity that no chinese doesnt make a TPA3116 amp in a case like the lepai at the same price!!!!...
I seen a lot have already bought the amp that looks like a design of mine, Im really glad that people like it!!!... I think Im going to buy a couple for myself too, I was thinking of matching one with a 6N3 and 6Z4 tube preamp for a present for a friend... What do you think of this!?.
By the way, In my little spare time, I been working in a pcb design to use with the Minidsp, it will be a 75mmx75mm board, to be able to attache it to the MiniDsp board, its a simple board that can be used in BTL and PBTL mode all components are SMT due for space and simplicity maybe in the future I finish the ealier version I started with through holes filter and input, this board it can be use for biamping with the minidsp or having a nice 2 channels amps in PBTL mode for the minidsp.
Here its a PDF of it.... all comments on it to improve it or correct mistakes are wellcome!!!!....
I seen a lot have already bought the amp that looks like a design of mine, Im really glad that people like it!!!... I think Im going to buy a couple for myself too, I was thinking of matching one with a 6N3 and 6Z4 tube preamp for a present for a friend... What do you think of this!?.
By the way, In my little spare time, I been working in a pcb design to use with the Minidsp, it will be a 75mmx75mm board, to be able to attache it to the MiniDsp board, its a simple board that can be used in BTL and PBTL mode all components are SMT due for space and simplicity maybe in the future I finish the ealier version I started with through holes filter and input, this board it can be use for biamping with the minidsp or having a nice 2 channels amps in PBTL mode for the minidsp.
Here its a PDF of it.... all comments on it to improve it or correct mistakes are wellcome!!!!....
Same here, replaced the inductors with some big ones I had in the drawer; I took them from a Tripath TA3020 amp, which died under my hands. They are oversized and it was a P.I.T.A to desolder the small ones and fit the biggies, but this is clearly the biggest upgrade so far. Much better bass, more detail, more dynamics and space.
It looses some of the politeness though, but seems to be more transparent and neutral.
Reminded me of my first small motorcycle where I replaced the carburator.
Loved the sound and felt like loosening the brake finally