Absolutely. It works fine as a 2.0.
I put an 8 ohm load resistor on the sub output to be safe.
Probably a stupid question: so when you run it in 2.0 mode, what happens to the lows? I understand the XO is adjustable from 80-500hz. So if you adjust it to lowest XO of 80hz, does everything below that just get lost into the 8 ohm load resistor?
The stereo 2.0 is full range. The XO freq control only pertains to the sub out.
My 3110 from Sure has no ferrite bead that I can find. I am still having a hard time ordering from Aliexpress ( they have free shipping) so I may try again in a week. Is anyone else having any difficulty getting an order placed with them at all? I am thinking of going with the Breeze 2.1. The case and variable XO freq for the sub are key considerations.
I haven't ordered from Sure Electronics's store on AliExpress recently but I ordered some small voltage meters from another vendor today without probems. So far I have 42 orders on AliExpress including 3 Sure TPA3110 boards and never had a problem ordering. Everything has turned up in good condition too and the quality of the items I've ordered (ranging from small amplifier boards to clothing) has generally been fine. Just don't expect branded products to be genuine.
The only few problems so far have been one order cancelled by the vendor where I automatically got my money refunded and a polo shirt that turned up in the wrong size. However, the seller acknowledged the problem and sent a new one. I had a similar experience with a cheap propeller balancer I bought (for r/c planes). The first one I received was skewed and out of balance but once I politely complained and sent a small video clip showing the faulty product they immediately sent a new one that worked.
In total 39 completely smooth transactions and 3 orders that were satisfactory resolved but involveld some hassle. That's on par with my experiences with eBay.
Hey guys, happy new year!
Got a refund from the YJ seller on ali, so the green (not the pbtl) and blue boards from taobao are on the way.
Good news: the green board (pic below) is now avaiable on aliexpress. Just search for TPA3116 and order by price. Much safer than buying with middlemen.
Sorry, what does it mean: "Silent Sleep Design" ?
I'm guessing it means that when the module goes into sleep mode (no signal) it does so without a 'pop'. Same thing when it wakes up. I think this can be done by triggering the mute pin.
can someone please summarize the problems that may occur when running the amp (especially the red yj-board) with more than 26v.
what i get from reading through this thread again is:
- it sounds better around 21v
- the inductors get hot
- more than 26v will actually not harm the chip, because of the overvoltage protection (but it still works?)
did miss or misunderstand something?
what i get from reading through this thread again is:
- it sounds better around 21v
- the inductors get hot
- more than 26v will actually not harm the chip, because of the overvoltage protection (but it still works?)
did miss or misunderstand something?
The over voltage protection shuts the chip down until the condition is cleared, meaning voltage drops below the threshold. That means it does not work... at all.
i once almost grilled it when i grabbed the wrong psu.
it was 24v ac.
the sound that came out of the attached speaker was awful.
the heatsink of the chip went too hot to touch.
the other time i wrecked an input resistor and touched two of the output capacitors with the soldering iron while modding it to pbtl.
but it still works fine.
i'm thinking about one or two new boards.
when i have them i will try to get up to max of 32v of my adjustable lab psu.
but something tells me it will not die that way.
the thought about at least one new board has a more or less serious background:
one should be used for a subwoofer.
the other for fr-speakers.
my fr-horns use these speakers (visaton bg20 8ohm):
BG 20 - 8 Ohm
atm i drive two of them parallel in mono (pbtl).
my question is:
considering the given output filters on the red 2.0 board, does it make more sense to use pbtl and run the speakers parallel (4 ohm) or should i leave a board as it is and run both channels with the same mono-signal (8 ohm)?
it was 24v ac.
the sound that came out of the attached speaker was awful.
the heatsink of the chip went too hot to touch.
the other time i wrecked an input resistor and touched two of the output capacitors with the soldering iron while modding it to pbtl.
but it still works fine.
i'm thinking about one or two new boards.
when i have them i will try to get up to max of 32v of my adjustable lab psu.
but something tells me it will not die that way.
the thought about at least one new board has a more or less serious background:
one should be used for a subwoofer.
the other for fr-speakers.
my fr-horns use these speakers (visaton bg20 8ohm):
BG 20 - 8 Ohm
atm i drive two of them parallel in mono (pbtl).
my question is:
considering the given output filters on the red 2.0 board, does it make more sense to use pbtl and run the speakers parallel (4 ohm) or should i leave a board as it is and run both channels with the same mono-signal (8 ohm)?
Low output power
Hi guys, I create my own PCB for this AMP. It works, but very quietly. When i powering it by 10V, it played same, like when i powering it by 20V. When i want loudly music a must intensify volume on the maximum (portable MP3 player)
Is there anyone, who know why did that's happen?
Hi guys, I create my own PCB for this AMP. It works, but very quietly. When i powering it by 10V, it played same, like when i powering it by 20V. When i want loudly music a must intensify volume on the maximum (portable MP3 player)
Is there anyone, who know why did that's happen?
Attachments
Are FAULT and SD jumper pins normally connected? If not, then that will be an issue. In that case you have to pull the SD pin low while audio signal is connected and disconnected otherwise you will have a fault that will not clear again until SD is pulled low. Or alternatively you have to cut all power while you connect or disconnect an audio source.
Also on the board layout AM0 is not connected to ground. Please make sure you connect this to either ground or logic high, otherwise the chip does not function properly.
Lastly, I do not see a ground connection to the negative inputs. If your input is single ended the negative must be grounded.
Also on the board layout AM0 is not connected to ground. Please make sure you connect this to either ground or logic high, otherwise the chip does not function properly.
Lastly, I do not see a ground connection to the negative inputs. If your input is single ended the negative must be grounded.
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Thank you
Thank you very much, it work ... and maybe i have got wron a setting of input impedance, i have got set 60kOhm ...
Thank you very much, it work ... and maybe i have got wron a setting of input impedance, i have got set 60kOhm ...
You probably accidentally changed R28 and R29 around.
EDIT: You also have a ground loop on the board layout. I have illustrated it below (in blue) and where you should be able to cut the loop without affecting other functions (green arrow).
Attachments
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So, I finally got a YJ red board to try. Set up a simple system, using 6 Ohm HT fullranges, just for testing.
After playing around fifteen minutes, voltages between 19-24V, it stopped. No pop, no smoke, just stopped. Powering off and on again did not work. Finger tested temperatures: chip heatsink was "standard" warm, so next I tried the inductors... Now I have a 1cm² blister on my middle finger. It's was... burning hot.
It's not working, when powered up just make a continuous faint blip sound on both channels. Any guesses?
Saturnus, regarding the output L-C filter, I always viewed it as a 2nd order low-pass filter. Without inductor, can't it be calculated as a 1st order filter?
About the TPA3110, it's seems to be a filterless design, with EMI supression embedded in the chip itself.
After playing around fifteen minutes, voltages between 19-24V, it stopped. No pop, no smoke, just stopped. Powering off and on again did not work. Finger tested temperatures: chip heatsink was "standard" warm, so next I tried the inductors... Now I have a 1cm² blister on my middle finger. It's was... burning hot.
It's not working, when powered up just make a continuous faint blip sound on both channels. Any guesses?
Saturnus, regarding the output L-C filter, I always viewed it as a 2nd order low-pass filter. Without inductor, can't it be calculated as a 1st order filter?
About the TPA3110, it's seems to be a filterless design, with EMI supression embedded in the chip itself.