TPA3116D2 Amp

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Rhing, xrk, others: what do you think about doing the inductor swap on the Sure board? The stock ones on the YJBlue board I believe were universally acknowledged as lousy. I don't know enough to judge Sure's, other than to say they are physically smaller. I would assume that there is some correlation between size and current capacity. I measured the Sure inductors to be 10mm square. Just from eye-balling it, it might be possible to put the big Coilcraft SER2900 inductors on the Sure board, though the caps would definitely have to be moved to the bottom, and the stock heatsink replaced as well. 100% match up between board solder pads and inductor leads certainly won't happen.

Another possibility might be these Sagami 7G14A inductors; they have favorable specs and less than 10mm width.

If the inductors don't get too warm or hot I would go with it stock. There is not much room there. The SEr's are *HUGE* maybe MSS series like unused on YJ is better fit - still those are 0.6in square. Other inductors to try are Bourns radial leads thru holes and bend pins to solder on SMT pads. They are very low profile as they stand up straight.
 
Panasonic EEU-FM1E471, 470uF/25V, 5mm LS, 10mm dia. x 16mm length. You can get these from Mouser or Digikey.

As for the minor turn-off pop, this diminished once I installed the 8x Panasonic FM caps and the Epcos X2 safety cap. I installed these at the same time, so I cannot tell you which contributed to reducing the pop.

Another thing to note is the solder on the SMSL amp board barely reflows with heating using my 40W Metcal soldering iron. Be careful not to rip out any thru-hole eyelets when removing the old caps and solder. I had to flow some Cardas quad-eutectic solder onto the existing solder just to get my solder sucking tool to pick up anything. Even then, it took some time and patience to get all the thru-holes cleared to install the Panasonic FM caps. I even had to resort to using a stainless steel needle to ream open some of the thru-holes while heating them.

Needless to say, I retouched almost every solder joint on that amp in case there were any cold solder joints.

I opened up my smsl amp for the first time. Quality is quite nice!

Does the volume knob simply pull off, and is that the easiest way to remove the board, by sliding it out from the rear after removing the volume knob? The knob seemed to be on there pretty tight and I didn't want to break anything.

I measure 27mm clearance between the board and the top cover. Should I therefore consider 680uF (20mm tall) or even 820uF (25mm tall) Pan FM caps for the 8x positions that are currently 470uF?

And where exactly did you mount the chunky Epcos X2 cap?

BK

2s8mnfc.jpg
 
I opened up my smsl amp for the first time. Quality is quite nice!

Does the volume knob simply pull off, and is that the easiest way to remove the board, by sliding it out from the rear after removing the volume knob? The knob seemed to be on there pretty tight and I didn't want to break anything.

I measure 27mm clearance between the board and the top cover. Should I therefore consider 680uF (20mm tall) or even 820uF (25mm tall) Pan FM caps for the 8x positions that are currently 470uF?

And where exactly did you mount the chunky Epcos X2 cap?

BK

The volume knob slides off the volume pot shaft. Most of the enclosure components are Aluminum, which can dent and scratch easily, so wrap the metal parts in paper towels or cloths to protect them as you disassemble the enclosure.

To access the top and bottom of the PCB, you must remove all eight (8)Torx-type screws to remove both the top and bottom enclosure halves and the faceplate. The PCB will remain fixed to the rear plate as you slide it out of the bottom enclosure card-mounting slots (front-to-rear).

The 680uF/25V Panasonic FM caps that are 10mm dia. x 20mm should fit in there if your height measurement is correct. You will need to double-check, but these particular caps have the best combination of ripple current rating and lowest ESR.

For the small Epcos X2 film cap, I trimmed the leads and bent them slightly to make physical contact with the power switch leads on the bottom of the PCB. The cap needs to lay flat on its side in order to fit it underneath between the bottom half of the enclosure and the PCB.

Those green film caps on the inputs look like ERO MKT1822 film caps. If they are, I would leave those in there as they are really good caps. However, they can have a lengthy burn-in. With time, they will open up nicely.
 
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OSCON's Rule!!!

I just swapped out my Ybdz Weiner's stock power rail caps with Panasonic 330uF 25V SEPF OSCON's. It makes a huge difference in the sound quality! Definitely one of the best bang for the buck mods. This amp was very good stock, but after the OSCON's it's almost like I got upgraded speakers. I am hearing "blacker blacks" and microdynamic detail that was lost before. The bass got more crisp and deep, the highs sound better and the vocals sound soooo smooooth and velvety, like buttah... :) The soundstage was improved as well as imaging. This was the only mod I did so I know that the OSCON's are responsible for it. I tried doing the bootstrap snubber mod but this board is so tight I will have to order SMT 330pF and 10R parts to accomplish it on the topside. You have to do it in the space between the chip and inductor (under the heatsink) so not much room.

If you have a Ybdz Weiner - do this mod if it is the only one you do!!!

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The volume knob slides off the volume pot shaft. Most of the enclosure components are Aluminum, which can dent and scratch easily, so wrap the metal parts in paper towels or cloths to protect them as you disassemble the enclosure.

To access the top and bottom of the PCB, you must remove all eight (8)Torx-type screws to remove both the top and bottom enclosure halves and the faceplate. The PCB will remain fixed to the rear plate as you slide it out of the bottom enclosure card-mounting slots (front-to-rear).

The 680uF/25V Panasonic FM caps that are 10mm dia. x 20mm should fit in there if your height measurement is correct. You will need to double-check, but these particular caps have the best combination of ripple current rating and lowest ESR.

For the small Epcos X2 film cap, I trimmed the leads and bent them slightly to make physical contact with the power switch leads on the bottom of the PCB. The cap needs to lay flat on its side in order to fit it underneath between the bottom half of the enclosure and the PCB.

Those green film caps on the inputs look like ERO MKT1822 film caps. If they are, I would leave those in there as they are really good caps. However, they can have a lengthy burn-in. With time, they will open up nicely.

Thanks for the detailed info!

Both the 680uF and 820uF have very similar specs to each other, and both are a decent step up from the 470uF version (all pana FM type).

The Epcos X2 cap you linked to earlier is 11x13mm and 5mm thick when placed flat. Good to know there's enough room under the board to accommodate it. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure it's necessary in my case because I keep the amp "on" at it's button and cycle power with the PS switch wired to the primary side of the transformer.

I didn't pay too much attention to the green film caps, other than to notice they are labeled Vishay on the other side. Will grab the details next time I have the amp apart.

BK
 
My Mouser order came in and I replaced the stock electrolytic caps on my Sure TPA3116 amp with the 330uF/25V Panasonic SEPF OSCON organic semiconductor caps. These caps have made significant improvements with the Sure amp in many areas: tonality, scale of the soundstage, a more focused image, timbral detail, and articulation.

View attachment 434102

One of my reference recordings is Yo-Yo Ma and Bobby McFerrin's "Hush." You can usually find a copy in the $1 bargain CD section at used music stores, but it is a gem that captures the acoustics of their recording venue. It is a very well mastered recording.

View attachment 434104

This along with other CDs and LPs are great for auditioning the effects of mods. Another favorite is Muddy Waters' "Folk Singer." With the OSCONs in place, the amp sounds more relaxed and musical. I don't hear that Class D etch to the sound anymore. It's smoother and more natural.

I won't say that this is now my favorite TPA3116 amp, because I haven't heard my modded YJ blue amp since the Sure amp showed up. The CineMag CMLI-15/15B input transformers came in yesterday. I'm debating whether to do the bootstrap snubber mod first or try the CineMag input transformers with the YJ blue amp. Either way, it takes some time to determine the effects of these mods, and I am by no means finished with listening to the Sure amp with the OSCONs.

I just swapped out my Ybdz Weiner's stock power rail caps with Panasonic 330uF 25V SEPF OSCON's. It makes a huge difference in the sound quality! Definitely one of the best bang for the buck mods. This amp was very good stock, but after the OSCON's it's almost like I got upgraded speakers. I am hearing "blacker blacks" and microdynamic detail that was lost before. The bass got more crisp and deep, the highs sound better and the vocals sound soooo smooooth and velvety, like buttah... :) The soundstage was improved as well as imaging. This was the only mod I did so I know that the OSCON's are responsible for it. I tried doing the bootstrap snubber mod but this board is so tight I will have to order SMT 330pF and 10R parts to accomplish it on the topside. You have to do it in the space between the chip and inductor (under the heatsink) so not much room.

If you have a Ybdz Weiner - do this mod if it is the only one you do!!!

That's why the OSCON is $1.8/piece !
 
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I just swapped out my Ybdz Weiner's stock power rail caps with Panasonic 330uF 25V SEPF OSCON's.

I was just ready to do this for one of the two Ybdz boards I received recently. I fired one up a few weeks ago and it was fine, except for three to four loud pops on start up. Well, when I hooked it up again last night I got major popping in one second intervals that did not go away: pop, pop, pop, pop, pop... I tried the other board and same thing. I contacted the seller and got no response yet. Any thoughts as where to begin?
 
You guys don't need the X2 cap to an X2 cap. The voltages are low, so instead of using something that is either rated at like 250v or 330v, you can use any MKP cap, any profile, and something like 160v or whatever. I don't remember where it's connected but two or four caps may perform better.

That's something to consider for bootstraps. The capacitors you guys are adding are fine, but you'll increase performance by using two instead of one at those locations. If you do that, you'll actually get twice the filtration! The reasons not to are if your physical space requires you to increase the lead length. In the case of SMD they fit right next to each other very easily. Well, it's easy enough to try :)

The Sure looks nice, but the inductors quality vs. Coilcraft and the input capacitors worry me. Perhaps it's the best stock board.
 
Application note says reducing the size of the inductors generally increases the total harmonic distortion (THD) of audio outputs. In place of 10 uh/0,68 uF better go, for example 22 uH/0,47 uF, anyone experimented with this?

With the SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118 amp, the stock TDK inductors are fine. The cap upgrades as I've previously mentioned will give you great results, especially replacing those generic-looking hybrid caps with the Panasonic SEPF OSCONs. Destroyer OS is probably correct in saying that a 305V X2-rated film cap on the power switch is overkill, but for cents more, I don't mind the overkill.
 
With the SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118 amp, the stock TDK inductors are fine. The cap upgrades as I've previously mentioned will give you great results, especially replacing those generic-looking hybrid caps with the Panasonic SEPF OSCONs. Destroyer OS is probably correct in saying that a 305V X2-rated film cap on the power switch is overkill, but for cents more, I don't mind the overkill.

EPCOS makes a naked smaller cap that's a better performance capacitor.

X2 just means it's safe for Line to Neutral on AC applications. In the case of a failure (lightening etc) it's quarantined to fail in a specific way. That's what your extra cents pay for in this application. Otherwise I'm with you and often spend more for higher quality.
 
My Mouser order came in and I replaced the stock electrolytic caps on my Sure TPA3116 amp with the 330uF/25V Panasonic SEPF OSCON organic semiconductor caps. These caps have made significant improvements with the Sure amp in many areas: tonality, scale of the soundstage, a more focused image, timbral detail, and articulation.

View attachment 434102

Are those OSCONs on the Sure TPA3116 board surface mount flavor?

BK
 
No. If I remember correctly, those cap positions are thru-hole mount only. Same with the output filter inductors and the 8x electrolytic caps.

Really? The 6 cap locations you upgraded today on your Sure amp are through-hole only? Looks like silkscreen and pads for surface mount. I asked because I'm thinking about trying a Sure TPA3116 amp and might add some parts to my order. Question is unrelated to my smsl board.

BK
 
Really? The 6 cap locations you upgraded today on your Sure amp are through-hole only? Looks like silkscreen and pads for surface mount. I asked because I'm thinking about trying a Sure TPA3116 amp and might add some parts to my order. Question is unrelated to my smsl board.

BK

There are indeed pads. It's a feature that I like on these Sure boards.
 

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I was just ready to do this for one of the two Ybdz boards I received recently. I fired one up a few weeks ago and it was fine, except for three to four loud pops on start up. Well, when I hooked it up again last night I got major popping in one second intervals that did not go away: pop, pop, pop, pop, pop... I tried the other board and same thing. I contacted the seller and got no response yet. Any thoughts as where to begin?

You might have a bad bootstrap or input cap. Maybe a bad power rail cap. Replace the big power ones first. The chip is bullet proof, problems like this are bad parts outside.
 
No. If I remember correctly, those cap positions are thru-hole mount only. Same with the output filter inductors and the 8x electrolytic caps.

My bad. I thought I was answering questions about the SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118, and got the amps mixed up. This is a classic symptom of an amplifier addict.:eek: KJA 2013 has it right--the Sure TPA3116 has SMD pads on the six power supply cap positions.
 
My bad. I thought I was answering questions about the SMSL SA-36A Pro TPA3118, and got the amps mixed up. This is a classic symptom of an amplifier addict.:eek: KJA 2013 has it right--the Sure TPA3116 has SMD pads on the six power supply cap positions.

But according to JKA's picture, seems like you also have the option to do through hole, right ? (I'm considering the Sure board as well)