Why looking at such advanced pcb stuff in order to try to win a couple of mm? It isn't worth the effort. This is a very simple print. Use the 13mm to put some text and info on your pcb! You should put at least 1 GND wire next to your spdif signal in the cable to the other board. Just make it a 2 row pinheader and make 1 side all pins GND and use a flatcable. Easy to find cable, easy to make cable, with the right connectors only pluggable in 1 direction and GND next to each signal between the board.
From my point of view: mostly interest and education, and on my level it is advanced.
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added nattawa's suggestion from post #56, maybe not necessary, improves robustness, i like it
added 2 GND pins besides the spdif line and some text 😉
I want to go with this version. Thanks for your support, i will give update.
The boards have arrived, from my opinion everthing looks good. There are some outstanding components to order, before i am able to glue it together. Meanwhile i will collect first experience with smd soldering with one or two of the boards.
Hopefully next week, i will have a working one.
Hopefully next week, i will have a working one.
Hi,
know i have a working one. It switches and plays music. Thanks to you. Coax input is also working.
A little bit offtic: Amazon has delivered some fake LM2596s buck converters. They are switching with aprox. 60kHz instead of 150kHz and audible. Does anyone has expierence with the Recom or Tracom DC/DC-Converters? Or schould i use AC/DC Converters directly, instead of my torodial based supply, for powering the digital part? I need to have 7V plus.
know i have a working one. It switches and plays music. Thanks to you. Coax input is also working.
A little bit offtic: Amazon has delivered some fake LM2596s buck converters. They are switching with aprox. 60kHz instead of 150kHz and audible. Does anyone has expierence with the Recom or Tracom DC/DC-Converters? Or schould i use AC/DC Converters directly, instead of my torodial based supply, for powering the digital part? I need to have 7V plus.
AFAIK you need 5V.
Send fake stuff back, it is not worth the trouble to use it.
If you like switchers, a company at eBay.de sells Meanwell IRM-15-5 modules for 3,99. These go very well with the AmyAlice filter by Mark Johnson. I made PCBs for that too. With mains fuse etc
Send fake stuff back, it is not worth the trouble to use it.
If you like switchers, a company at eBay.de sells Meanwell IRM-15-5 modules for 3,99. These go very well with the AmyAlice filter by Mark Johnson. I made PCBs for that too. With mains fuse etc
In need 5V and 12V, switching supplies or buck converters doesnt matter, noise and ripple is more important. At moment I am using an -+15V power supply as +30V/+15V/Gnd.
30V --> fake converter --> 7V --> LDO -->5V
15V --> LDO --> 12V
An this fake converter radiates a lot😵,
The Idea is using a better buck converter or replace all with switching supplies. I am also like the idea to use something like the meanwell with 7V output to go the LDO for 5V.
I will try to found the AmyAlice filter and have look.
I had also the idea for some additional shielding. My question is to contact the shield to GND or earth, the rest of the system is earth free.
30V --> fake converter --> 7V --> LDO -->5V
15V --> LDO --> 12V
An this fake converter radiates a lot😵,
The Idea is using a better buck converter or replace all with switching supplies. I am also like the idea to use something like the meanwell with 7V output to go the LDO for 5V.
I will try to found the AmyAlice filter and have look.
I had also the idea for some additional shielding. My question is to contact the shield to GND or earth, the rest of the system is earth free.
IRM-15-5 works OK with AmyAlice but a good linear PSU is cleaner. Simple.
Radiating fake parts belong in the bin, not in audio. Anyway I use multi voltage boards with surplus custom wound small toroids with multiple voltages for that purpose.
Radiating fake parts belong in the bin, not in audio. Anyway I use multi voltage boards with surplus custom wound small toroids with multiple voltages for that purpose.
Have thought about it. I want to replace my PT2258 with a PGA2310 solution, because it seems to be a perfect match for my setup. This also means 12V are not necessary anymore and i plan to replace one of the 15V supplies with a 7V toroid based one. But i am not sure about the a board for rectifier and regulator.
PGA2310 needs +/- 15V for correct operation. The data sheet is quite clear. If quality is the main parameter you could consider MUSES72323. It also seems to be made for programmers. Again if best quality is paramount then don't use SMPS but go linear with ultra low noise uLDO certainly when the device is below 15W.
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Thanks, i will have a look on the MUSES72323.
SMPS or any switching stuff regarding power supply are out of the race, both supplies will be linear. On the 5V rail aprox. 500mA are needed, the different devices should be decoupled with LDOs.
SMPS or any switching stuff regarding power supply are out of the race, both supplies will be linear. On the 5V rail aprox. 500mA are needed, the different devices should be decoupled with LDOs.
I had a look or two, to the MUSES72323 data sheet, it is quite interresting. But i think it doesnt fit to the rest of the project, i would like to say the 72323 ist to good. The output stage makes my preamp boards obsolete, because it can also drive 600Ohms load. The PCM5102 cheap dac boards, i am using, doesnt fit to it.
In a later stage i can imagine to use it, in a board with some higer integration, also with DAC and output stage.
May be, i will create a thread to the hole project, if some one is interrested in. Because this discussion is off topic.
In a later stage i can imagine to use it, in a board with some higer integration, also with DAC and output stage.
May be, i will create a thread to the hole project, if some one is interrested in. Because this discussion is off topic.