Nice little setup, Rich. Would you happen to have the part number for the Molex connectors? TIA - Pat
The amp has about 60 hours on it now and it went from sounding good on the overly mellow speakers to sounding mellow on the same speakers. So the mids and treble definitely smoothed out while it was getting hours on it.
Installed on the upstairs system with more neutral speakers the TPA3255 is better than the unmodified TPA3116 that was being used. The 3255 is clearer in the mids and treble (less grain) and has more texture in the bass. It's a cleaner, clearer window into the music.
It's similar to other class d amps in that it's somewhat solid state sounding with a touch of something like triode magic going on. It's hard to describe but the handful of class d amps that have gone through here seem to have that sonic signature. The difference with this amp is it doesn't seem to grate on me after a few hours. It doesn't seem to be as clinical sounding if that helps describe it. Most of the class d amps sound good at first and then something just doesn't sit well. This may happen here, too, but a few long listening sessions haven't made me turn the amp off. It might just be my bias in having a new amp in the system so that'll take some time to sort out.
The one oddity is that the amp seems to effect wifi and tv reception. It's definitely messing with some TV channels and slowing down the wifi. I put a large metal pan over it to see if it made any difference but it seemed to have no effect. Shut off the amp and turn off the power supply and all is well.
Installed on the upstairs system with more neutral speakers the TPA3255 is better than the unmodified TPA3116 that was being used. The 3255 is clearer in the mids and treble (less grain) and has more texture in the bass. It's a cleaner, clearer window into the music.
It's similar to other class d amps in that it's somewhat solid state sounding with a touch of something like triode magic going on. It's hard to describe but the handful of class d amps that have gone through here seem to have that sonic signature. The difference with this amp is it doesn't seem to grate on me after a few hours. It doesn't seem to be as clinical sounding if that helps describe it. Most of the class d amps sound good at first and then something just doesn't sit well. This may happen here, too, but a few long listening sessions haven't made me turn the amp off. It might just be my bias in having a new amp in the system so that'll take some time to sort out.
The one oddity is that the amp seems to effect wifi and tv reception. It's definitely messing with some TV channels and slowing down the wifi. I put a large metal pan over it to see if it made any difference but it seemed to have no effect. Shut off the amp and turn off the power supply and all is well.
could anyone tell me if the 3.3v supply on these boards has enough spare grunt to power a minidsp remote? im hacking frontpanel controls for my minidsp by mounting a remote internally, with front panel buttons connected to it. i need a 3v supply for it. i could get another regulator and run off the 15v aux of my psu, but since there is already a 3.3v supply on the amp board.....?
id imagine the current required is pretty miniscule, but i dont want to risk damage to the amp.
id imagine the current required is pretty miniscule, but i dont want to risk damage to the amp.
Quiescent current of a good transformer should be in the few milliampere range. I measured something like 4 watt consumption of the whole amplifier with TPA3255 in reset mode and about 7 watt when active but no input signal. I use a 260 VA transformer and two 10000 uF high quality capacitors.
Even if the regulator does 800mA, you should always check the power path, as it goes like:
dcdc-buck 15V -> ldo 12V -> ldo 3.3V
So consider the current of other components.
Beside that, take thermal restrictions into account, as I*Udrop power needs to be dissipated. 800mA is at best under optimal conditions. Anyway, there should be at 100mA available.
at 100mA there is (12V-3.3V)*0.1A = 0.87W heat to be dissipated. That already is a bit.
dcdc-buck 15V -> ldo 12V -> ldo 3.3V
So consider the current of other components.
Beside that, take thermal restrictions into account, as I*Udrop power needs to be dissipated. 800mA is at best under optimal conditions. Anyway, there should be at 100mA available.at 100mA there is (12V-3.3V)*0.1A = 0.87W heat to be dissipated. That already is a bit.
I'm thinking about putting my EVM3255 and the 48 volt Meanwell power supply in an old Antec NSK1380 computer case from my junk pile.
I would like to know if there is an easy way to use the case's existing on/off button (standard ATX momentary switch) in connection with some type of circuit to switch the 120VAC supply to the PS. By "easy way," I'm hoping for some kind of module I can order from China for 79 cents with free shipping, but I wouldn't be adverse to putting something together myself if some can give me some pointers.
Also: what kind of fuse would be recommended for this setup??
I would like to know if there is an easy way to use the case's existing on/off button (standard ATX momentary switch) in connection with some type of circuit to switch the 120VAC supply to the PS. By "easy way," I'm hoping for some kind of module I can order from China for 79 cents with free shipping, but I wouldn't be adverse to putting something together myself if some can give me some pointers.
Also: what kind of fuse would be recommended for this setup??