I have a Threshold Stasis 2 comming in for repair! Could any of you post a schematic for that one? I did search, but the links didnt seem to work anymore:-( Now, I never claimed that I actually could repair this thing, only promissed that I would take a look! But man, I would love to bring this baby to sing again. I remember those Stasis amp's back then!! I had never heard anything like it
They really rocked the place
I really hope to make it sing again. As I understood, the trouble is, that one of the channels is louder than the other! Also he said that one of the VU meters in front was lighting up all the time. Now this guy is not whatever, kind of guy. We go back all the way to school!!
Hope some of you guys are prepared to help out? I will post the excact problems on monday, when I get my hands on the amplifier!!
Steen
Hope some of you guys are prepared to help out? I will post the excact problems on monday, when I get my hands on the amplifier!!
Steen
steenoe said:Thanks a lot Adam, but I have a persisting problem; File does not excist. Can you download the tif file?? I can not.
Steen.
Yes, no problem, check your settings (virus scan or protection ???)
I have saved it as *.gif see here:
Adam
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Does any of you have a service manual for this amp? A link to it would also be fine. The amp itself actually sound pretty good, only one channel is a bit louder than the other and from the Peak meter on the front, it seems like one channel is putting out some more signal than the other. Even without a signal, the leds lights up. (the first 4-5 leds). Any thoughts on that problem? I would really appreciate a little help on this.
This elderly amp, is very finely build
Steen
This elderly amp, is very finely build
Steen
This is highly interesting. I draw two conclusions.
1: Perhaps the channel with the constant VU indication is oscillating. I have had this happen while only causing a reduce in audible gain and causing the amplifier to run a little warm.
2: I doubt the possibility of this idea, but DC offset?? (You'd have probably noticed that by now.) All VU meters I've seen are AC coupled so far. So I doubt offset is doing it, it's not as if it'd reduce the gain any.
Hope that at least gave a bit of input to the subject.
1: Perhaps the channel with the constant VU indication is oscillating. I have had this happen while only causing a reduce in audible gain and causing the amplifier to run a little warm.
2: I doubt the possibility of this idea, but DC offset?? (You'd have probably noticed that by now.) All VU meters I've seen are AC coupled so far. So I doubt offset is doing it, it's not as if it'd reduce the gain any.
Hope that at least gave a bit of input to the subject.
Yep, you are right, Tony. Uhhh, this amp is fairly packed and not easy to make some measurements on. I hardly dare to stick in the testprobes. The q's are sitting darn close on the driver board, they are also quite longlegged (wich is nice on girls, not on q'sYou have beside a seeminly good channel so it should not be that dificult
Steen
Yes, I can. Tomorrow, propably! You are gonna drewlCould you post a pic of the inside?
I will post a nice set of pic's of this amp
Thanks a lot, DUO.Hope that at least gave a bit of input to the subject.
I am happy you guy's are with me, on this one
Steen
steenoe said:You are gonna drewlIt smells like NP had his hands in there!!
Gonna love seeing those pics!!!
That's what I also thought that it might be packed inside. It won’t be a good idea to take readings then. Start disassembling

DUO might have the clue, it may be oscillating. Cleen the input jacks with cramolin or something similar. Or change input jacks...resolder.... Check those signal cables/wire. Seems a good way to start.
Very good, TonyDUO might have the clue, it may be oscillating. Cleen the input jacks with cramolin or something similar. Or change input jacks...resolder.... Check those signal cables/wire. Seems a good way to start.
I saw it yesterday, with no lid on, I was amazed
Steen
Does it work with and w/o FB?
If so, look for the switch and change it.
The 5K bias pot might also be a source for oscillations, me think so. Moving it just a bit to both sides could kleen it, if you dare
I would also look at the thermal breaker. Check bypassing it.
Near the bias pot is a circle marked T 1V, any clue to what it is?
If so, look for the switch and change it.
The 5K bias pot might also be a source for oscillations, me think so. Moving it just a bit to both sides could kleen it, if you dare
I would also look at the thermal breaker. Check bypassing it.
Near the bias pot is a circle marked T 1V, any clue to what it is?
I dont think there is any switch! The hole topology is NFB! At least that is what I gathered from the manual. Also, I did notice that there was a ThermistorIf so, look for the switch and change it.

Steen
Yep, I do dare! That was my first thought!! Give it some massageThe 5K bias pot might also be a source for oscillations, me think so. Moving it just a bit to both sides could cleen it, if you dare
Steen
I have studied the schematic posted earlier on, cant see T 1V!! I did spot the thermistor in the amp, though! It was sitting right there at the power inlet!Ok, so the T 1V is a thermistor.
Steen
I do see T1v now, have no idea what it is!!
Hi Stinoe
here are threads where this has been dicussed allready...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=5396&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=2
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34275
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4153&highlight=
I have a Stasis 2 sitting on my bench, with same oscillation problems:
Change the bias adjust pot for a multiturn one
I changed the drivers for MJE 15030/15031
Changed all the TO3s for MJ 15024/15025
the thermistor is 1K
Change ALL the capacitors, especially the tantalum 0.1 and 4.7 Uf they often cause problems, anyway in such a warm environment they get Roasted after some 20+years....
Open the sides and you'll get plenty of place to work
For testing, do not unsolder the input wires from the back panel, and do not unsolder the tiny grey wires that come from the star earth under the square ground plane and attaches to the negative cinch pin. if not you loose the ground return for the input section and you'll light all the leds
check for output offset and set bias at about 0.7 to 0.8 A
here are threads where this has been dicussed allready...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=5396&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=2
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34275
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4153&highlight=
I have a Stasis 2 sitting on my bench, with same oscillation problems:
Change the bias adjust pot for a multiturn one
I changed the drivers for MJE 15030/15031
Changed all the TO3s for MJ 15024/15025
the thermistor is 1K
Change ALL the capacitors, especially the tantalum 0.1 and 4.7 Uf they often cause problems, anyway in such a warm environment they get Roasted after some 20+years....
Open the sides and you'll get plenty of place to work
For testing, do not unsolder the input wires from the back panel, and do not unsolder the tiny grey wires that come from the star earth under the square ground plane and attaches to the negative cinch pin. if not you loose the ground return for the input section and you'll light all the leds
check for output offset and set bias at about 0.7 to 0.8 A
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