Having taken far to long to be able to start building these speakers I have come to the conclusion I should of stayed with the 6.5 woofers instead of the 8's I ordered as now am building in two 15 subs in the RV (where these speakers might now work out due the space I have available for them)
That said, I believe I bought 18 of the 8's so they are available if anyone interested in them lets work out a deal. I am in northern Nevada but can ship anywhere.
If somebody has 6.5s and not build yet and want to go to 8's we could even trade.
------------
Been awhile since I have posted here, dealing with some fairly serious health issues, which I am getting under control following the practice of " let food be thy medicine"
And working as many hours on our all out and much higher level remodel. This time next year I should be building speakers, finally!
Rick
That said, I believe I bought 18 of the 8's so they are available if anyone interested in them lets work out a deal. I am in northern Nevada but can ship anywhere.
If somebody has 6.5s and not build yet and want to go to 8's we could even trade.
------------
Been awhile since I have posted here, dealing with some fairly serious health issues, which I am getting under control following the practice of " let food be thy medicine"
And working as many hours on our all out and much higher level remodel. This time next year I should be building speakers, finally!
Rick
All the best and good recovery!
Building speakers can be/is a good therapy, I built X's FAST/TL shortly after my pulmonary embolism in January 2022.
Building speakers can be/is a good therapy, I built X's FAST/TL shortly after my pulmonary embolism in January 2022.
Dang, I was just having some heart issues I cured mostly by stopping the caffeine habit, even decal as found it has compounds that still effected my particular(and many others of course) racing heart beat, up to 210 one time and moderately high blood pressure as well as forget the term but irregular heart rate.
Having an embolism is scary to say the least, cool you you were able to recover and build speakers right away.
Also stage 3b kidney disease which I am not over yet but far better, less saturated fat, less meat and rarely red meat, less salt, nearly all our food is organic and fresh cooked, hardly every prepared foods and seldom eat out which we have not done much of in many years, our food is better and a heck of a lot less expensive.
Lucky me that my wonderful wife loves to cook and use only quality ingredients🙂
I have seen quite a few of your posts, projects, etc, good stuff, keep it up!!!
Rick
Having an embolism is scary to say the least, cool you you were able to recover and build speakers right away.
Also stage 3b kidney disease which I am not over yet but far better, less saturated fat, less meat and rarely red meat, less salt, nearly all our food is organic and fresh cooked, hardly every prepared foods and seldom eat out which we have not done much of in many years, our food is better and a heck of a lot less expensive.
Lucky me that my wonderful wife loves to cook and use only quality ingredients🙂
I have seen quite a few of your posts, projects, etc, good stuff, keep it up!!!
Rick
Stupid question here. I plan on building a couple of PPSL cone to magnet manifolds using dual 15" drivers on some OB speakers, similar to this project.
My question is can speaker cloth be used to cover the slots, or will they be flappin in the breeze too much. 😊
My question is can speaker cloth be used to cover the slots, or will they be flappin in the breeze too much. 😊
I see a lot of the OB plans nowadays are using a supplemental rear firing horn tweeter. Just curious if that is something that would be applicable to the XSD?
Just wanted to say I’ve been a fan of these XSD threads for a while. Mainly because I tried building a version of a slot loaded bass panel years ago after NP first published his article.
I had limited success for various reasons…panel size, driver choice, inexperience etc. I was tempted to scrap the project.
Recently I made a few changes that didn’t solve all my problems, but seemed to have made improvements. Enough to encourage me to not give up on it.
I have a problem with a lack of bass impact especially with Rock recordings with strong kick drum content.
I had hoped I could try substituting some long throw drivers that would move more air. Unfortunately, the chambers of my panel were made to just clear the frames of the buyout Peerless drivers I originally built them for. Everything I find with a reasonably higher Xmax has a larger frame that would require complicated woodwork to retrofit them.
I’m looking for the path of least resistance to try and improve the problem.
I’ve noticed that the system definitely performs differently depending on what amps I use to drive it. My current favorite is a pair of SONY VFET Part 1 amps I have. I built one when they had the lottery and recently picked up a second in the swap meet.
I also have a feeling that they may perform differently if/when I move them upstairs to my main listening area which has high irregular ceilings and adjacent walls that will essentially become an extension of the baffles once the speakers are situated.
Since Parts Express had some sales recently I decided to buy some 12” GRS high excursion subs they had on sale. I’m still not sure I want to attempt rebuilding the slotted panel. I may just try and build some dipole/ripole subs and see if I can integrate them.
In the mean time I grabbed a pair if the GRS PT2522-4 since they were on sale.
I also ordered the XSD wave guides for them on sale. I got them just yesterday and they are really nice!
I’m not sure how this whole project will evolve, but it has been quite an adventure!
I had limited success for various reasons…panel size, driver choice, inexperience etc. I was tempted to scrap the project.
Recently I made a few changes that didn’t solve all my problems, but seemed to have made improvements. Enough to encourage me to not give up on it.
I have a problem with a lack of bass impact especially with Rock recordings with strong kick drum content.
I had hoped I could try substituting some long throw drivers that would move more air. Unfortunately, the chambers of my panel were made to just clear the frames of the buyout Peerless drivers I originally built them for. Everything I find with a reasonably higher Xmax has a larger frame that would require complicated woodwork to retrofit them.
I’m looking for the path of least resistance to try and improve the problem.
I’ve noticed that the system definitely performs differently depending on what amps I use to drive it. My current favorite is a pair of SONY VFET Part 1 amps I have. I built one when they had the lottery and recently picked up a second in the swap meet.
I also have a feeling that they may perform differently if/when I move them upstairs to my main listening area which has high irregular ceilings and adjacent walls that will essentially become an extension of the baffles once the speakers are situated.
Since Parts Express had some sales recently I decided to buy some 12” GRS high excursion subs they had on sale. I’m still not sure I want to attempt rebuilding the slotted panel. I may just try and build some dipole/ripole subs and see if I can integrate them.
In the mean time I grabbed a pair if the GRS PT2522-4 since they were on sale.
I also ordered the XSD wave guides for them on sale. I got them just yesterday and they are really nice!
I’m not sure how this whole project will evolve, but it has been quite an adventure!
Beautiful system! Try adding a partial panel on the two side facing triangles behind front baffle. This will extend the “width” of the baffle and deepen the bass. The bas extension is purely a function of how wide the baffle is and if you add rear facing panels it extends the width. Don’t seal 🦭 t all up of course. Maybe 12 to 14 in wide panels the height of the slot cabinet in each side.
I did add rear panels.
I wasn’t sure what was the best way to do it since I had already built screens to cover the rear of the panels.
Instead of connecting them to the outside edge of the front panel and angling them back I added shorter panels inboard that are parallel to the mounting surface for the drivers. This resulted in a sort of truncated “U” frame with the front panel extending beyond. Which I think limited the improvement.
I just wasn’t sure what the result would be from creating a “Y” shaped baffle that formed a larger sort of chamber on the back if the panel. Plus I was trying to keep the screens I put so much work into.
This is typical bone headed stubbornness on my part. Thinking like an artist instead of an engineer 🙄
I wasn’t sure what was the best way to do it since I had already built screens to cover the rear of the panels.
Instead of connecting them to the outside edge of the front panel and angling them back I added shorter panels inboard that are parallel to the mounting surface for the drivers. This resulted in a sort of truncated “U” frame with the front panel extending beyond. Which I think limited the improvement.
I just wasn’t sure what the result would be from creating a “Y” shaped baffle that formed a larger sort of chamber on the back if the panel. Plus I was trying to keep the screens I put so much work into.
This is typical bone headed stubbornness on my part. Thinking like an artist instead of an engineer 🙄
Hi @xrk971 ,
Is there any way to "shorten" the slot depth to push the 470 Hz resonance peak higher ?
There appears to be @ 1/2" between the back of the magnet and the back of the slot (based on the speaker's magnet and cutout measurements).
Would filling the back of the slot behind the magnet with a 1/2" block of wood (see green section below) extend the high frequency ( 470Hz ) resonance peak ?
Would adding poly-fill extend the high frequency ( 470Hz ) resonance peak ?
Are there any other tricks to acoustically shorten the slot depth ?
Thanks much.
Is there any way to "shorten" the slot depth to push the 470 Hz resonance peak higher ?
There appears to be @ 1/2" between the back of the magnet and the back of the slot (based on the speaker's magnet and cutout measurements).
Would filling the back of the slot behind the magnet with a 1/2" block of wood (see green section below) extend the high frequency ( 470Hz ) resonance peak ?
Would adding poly-fill extend the high frequency ( 470Hz ) resonance peak ?
Are there any other tricks to acoustically shorten the slot depth ?
Thanks much.
Last edited by a moderator:
You can make smaller hole that is about 1/2 of the cone area in shape of a half circle. You will have to mount both drivers magnet out. The driver will be pushing air through a slot that sort of loads the cone. This hole then goes into a tall slot that is shorter than the diameter of the driver. This will push the 1/4 wave frequency up higher. It will change the dynamics a bit because this smaller chamber will now drive air into a larger chamber and that will have a phase shift. This is how woofers on a synergy horn works.
Like this:
(Typo - I couldn’t spell “Front” for some reason…)
Like this:
(Typo - I couldn’t spell “Front” for some reason…)
Last edited:
Hello @xrk971
I am finally building the bass section with 8x 6.5" Dayton Classics DC160-8 per side. As I was getting ready to cut the front panels, I realized it wasn´t clear to me if the front baffle slots are he same size as the slot cavity size. From the pictures it seems the height is the same, but the front baffle slots seem to be narrower than the cavities between the woofers. Is that the case, or are they the same dimensions?
Thanks in advance. Can´t wait to try these!
Regards
I am finally building the bass section with 8x 6.5" Dayton Classics DC160-8 per side. As I was getting ready to cut the front panels, I realized it wasn´t clear to me if the front baffle slots are he same size as the slot cavity size. From the pictures it seems the height is the same, but the front baffle slots seem to be narrower than the cavities between the woofers. Is that the case, or are they the same dimensions?
Thanks in advance. Can´t wait to try these!
Regards
Cavity width and height are same as front baffle slot width and height. 2.25in wide x 5.5in high for the 6.5in woofers.
Lewinsk, to cut the front panel slots, I would recommend making a hole in the center of the panel of where each slot will be. (to allow router bit through). Attach the panel to the woofer assembly, and then use a template router bit (straight cut bit with a bearing guide) to cut the exact slot opening. This will insure each slot in the front panel matches up exactly with the woofer assembly slot.