Both speakers wired and playing. Very underwhelming. Bass is basically weak/missing. This cant be right. I was very careful with wiring but there is no way this is right. I am assuming I have a wiring mistake somewhere. Any trouble shooting tips for the woofer section? There is bass, but I have a pair of two way 7 inch speakers that rock in comparison, I have something wrong!
Russellc
Russellc
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Probably something is not right. Check your DC resistance across the woofer wires that go to the XO (with XO disconnected). Is it around 4ohms?
Use a 9v battery to see if all your woofers push air out when positive polarity is applied. Cones should all move in to squeeze air.
Please show some closeup photos of your crossover, wiring to woofers etc.
It doesn’t go deep to like 30Hz but what it has at 50Hz where kick drums are should rock.
Use a 9v battery to see if all your woofers push air out when positive polarity is applied. Cones should all move in to squeeze air.
Please show some closeup photos of your crossover, wiring to woofers etc.
It doesn’t go deep to like 30Hz but what it has at 50Hz where kick drums are should rock.
disconnecting woofers lines from cross over and measuring lines gives 6.9 ohms, so something is mis wired. Let me try the other one.....
other speaker measures 4.5. Is 4.5 good, or should it be 4.0 even?
other speaker measures 4.5. Is 4.5 good, or should it be 4.0 even?
With speakers wired but crossovers removed, can I take a 1.5 volt battery and test each woofer pair by touching its + and - to the exposed driver of the pair? I figure I should test to make sure each pair is wired out of phase. Would the cones move in like this? I would make it easy to determine if the pairs are wired to each other correctly? (without a lot of unwiring.
If they are all straight with each other, I should be able to visually check the other connections.
If they are all straight with each other, I should be able to visually check the other connections.
Sure but what counts is the final wiring the XO sees. It needs to be all correct and only way that works is if it’s 4ohms and all 8 woofers push in on positive. 1.5v battery won’t have enough deflection. If you have a 5v usb supply that works.
I have a nine volt battery, will use it. Do you think the speakern measuring 4.5 correct or is that too much deviation? Playing it and another full range speaker of similar sensitivity sounds "right" bass wise. I think I just goofed up one...
Hard to tell, I will attempt repair of the one and see what I have. The other full range is a monster. 5 cu ft JBL 4430 monitor clone. Same box size, same woofer crossover, same tuning same JBL 2235H 15 inch woofers. I do have the JBL baby butt horns, t am using a different top right now. It has bass all over the place.
Yup, 4.5 ohms or so is what I am getting on both. Sounds much better. Less bass than I am used to, maybe breakin will add a bit'
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.Russellc
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.Russellc
Are you saying you had one speaker phase flipped? That would cancel the bass between left and right. Or one woofer out of 8 was flipped?
4.5 ohms is about right within the range of a millimeter. They are not too accurate in the sub 1ohms range.
The woofers definitely benefit from breaking in for a few days. Nothing epic just some music with some moderate bass played at moderate level. Something you enjoy as it’s on 24/7.
The midrange also needs break in. It gets much smoother. Also a few days.
Good luck!
4.5 ohms is about right within the range of a millimeter. They are not too accurate in the sub 1ohms range.
The woofers definitely benefit from breaking in for a few days. Nothing epic just some music with some moderate bass played at moderate level. Something you enjoy as it’s on 24/7.
The midrange also needs break in. It gets much smoother. Also a few days.
Good luck!
I also experienced the midrange anomaly as well, was already beginning to subside by end of evening. This is the first speaker I have had with an actual mid range driver in a long time.
Russellc
Russellc
As wiring goes, this is one of the more complicated speaker where you really need to track the polarity for 8 drivers in a complex topology of 4 pairs of parallel, 2 of the pairs in series, and then the two series in parallel. With 4 of the driver flipped basket in, with wire connects not visible... there is a lot of room for making a phase flip by accident! Which is why a battery tester for each sub-section before going to next is the only way to verify for sure. Even wire polarity labels from factory are sometimes incorrect.
Good luck with breaking in.
Good luck with breaking in.
Its coming right along, speaking of the break-in. Electronics is not my brightest spot, Ive been at it for a while and can identify parts, know when to ask a question and can solder very well. They have had a constant input of television and sound much different today already.
I found the crossover confusing, nothing at all wrong with it, just not my strong point. I tend to think of electricity like water in a pipe, and that isnt the least bit
correct. Crossover schematics usually reflect the circuit, but not the actual layout. Your drawing cleared it up!
Speakers are sounding better and better.
I found the crossover confusing, nothing at all wrong with it, just not my strong point. I tend to think of electricity like water in a pipe, and that isnt the least bit
correct. Crossover schematics usually reflect the circuit, but not the actual layout. Your drawing cleared it up!
Speakers are sounding better and better.
Not only does midrange continue to improve, for those of you wondering if the bass breaks in, the answer is yes. At first, I would have categorized
as "needs a sub" for full range. As time goes by, it improved enough for me to explain things as my being use to lots of bass. Now a couple hits have surprised me, so things continue to improve to the better.
A bass heavy session of Jah Wobble ought to speed break in.
as "needs a sub" for full range. As time goes by, it improved enough for me to explain things as my being use to lots of bass. Now a couple hits have surprised me, so things continue to improve to the better.
A bass heavy session of Jah Wobble ought to speed break in.
That was my experience too. Gradual but noticeable improvement over a few days. The bass has a unique trick in that it doesn’t seem to have a floor bounce (because it’s a 4 slot line array) and there are not any noticeable “hot spots” of bass as you walk around because it’s a dipole. Very uniform bass in the room. The bass amplitude on kick drums and bass guitar is quite powerful because my storage cabinets rattle and need to be secured.
Midrange has this beautiful clarity. Very very low distortion. Voices seem to be emanating from clear phantom image. Great for realism of live ensembles.
Midrange has this beautiful clarity. Very very low distortion. Voices seem to be emanating from clear phantom image. Great for realism of live ensembles.
The treble and upper midrange are breaking in nicely, bass is improved, but just isnt keeping up with mid and high frequency drivers, I am suspecting a mis wire somewhere. Seems like it would throw the ohms reading off, but maybe not if it is one of the woofer pairs not having inverted polarity. If I did, I must have done it on both sides as the image is now balanced. The description of the bass you all are getting does not seem to be what I am experiencing. No shelves needing secured or buzzing, bass still asking for sub...
I will go through the crossover wiring visually, again and get out the 9 volt battery. Just disconnect the woofer leads and put - and + on the same pole on battery? Where the woofer + and - leads are joined together, will I need to cut them apart to individually test both sets of 4 woofers, or all 8 at once?
Russellc
I will go through the crossover wiring visually, again and get out the 9 volt battery. Just disconnect the woofer leads and put - and + on the same pole on battery? Where the woofer + and - leads are joined together, will I need to cut them apart to individually test both sets of 4 woofers, or all 8 at once?
Russellc