Yes good to have an alternative, but I would not ask to rework the crossover for all the work you and Bloghead put into it. PRV got back to me and said they should be back in stock in “ a month or so” I don’t blame X and I am still waiting 6 months for some relays from mouser so that’s just the way of things today.
Those "expected back in stock" dates do seem to keep shifting... It is easy to understand why there are shortages, but a bit confusing that manufacturers' estimations are so consistently so far off..
Sometimes that is because their suppliers are doing the same to them
I wanted to ask about the acoustic egg crate foam used on the inside of the wings. X, how did you affix it to the wood, hot glue I assume? I've mounted egg crate paneling with 3M poster mounting strips and it was not a great long term solution. Although far more costly, how would something like dynamat or noico work in place of the egg crate foam?
I used double sided tape initially but that wasn’t very secure. I used hot melt glue for best results. It needs to prevent hard surface reflections so Noico won’t work. You can use thick felt or melamine sponges too. The melamine is probably best. BASF Basotect melamine foam in grey color would be ideal. It might work well without it for you - give it a listen.
X - what did you use for a gasket on the other side of the woofer flange, were you able to peel off the one on the front? Also if I recessed the woofers the depth of the lip it would decrease the space between the woofers would the have a negative impact?
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
I did not use a gasket for the woofers. The seal between wood and bare metal frame was good enough given the large open slot on the front. I did not recess the woofer. If you do, it’s not going to adversely affect the response due to volume change. The upper end falloff is mostly dictated by slot depth.
Slow going but I've begun. I have a week of warmish weather so hoping I can get some significant work done on them. My tentative plan is to use T-nuts and threaded inserts on the ledgers to mount the wings. On the wings I'll use a forstner bit to inset the machine screws and washers I'll use. I'll probably use some locktite or something similar on the screws just to ensure everything's stable once fully assembled, but I'm intending to assemble in a way so the wings are removable for tinkering, etc, but appealing. Black paint, black inset machine screws. Given that, would a very thin gasket where the wings join the speaker be worthwhile just to ensure a good airtight seal?
Attachments
You might consider using a peelable caulk or rope caulk; both used for weatherstripping, and easily removed. I'd favor the first as it will provide some holding power as well.
Appreciate the documentation! Will be repeating this soon, so its nice to see how someone is actually assembling these!
Will be collecting a few new tools for this. I would like the side removeable if possible, so your method is right up the alley that I see!
Again, thanks for taking point here!
Russellc
Did you cut your own side wings? I was going to farm it out, but it wouldn't be that bad.
Russellc
I actually went over to my uncles house, he's been making classical guitars since 1975, we did the first one on his table saw. Routed one and a half, but his bit was pretty dull and probably burning more than cutting, so we finished off the third with the table saw and then did the fourth on the saw as well. For the rounded bit we just drilled a 1/2" or 3/4" hole before we hit the saw. We also extended the platforms depth by one inch, and the wings scaled accordingly.
Ok another question on mounting the tweeter into the really cool waveguide, the gasket provided does not have cutouts for all the screws and the thickness is to thick for it to sit flush anyway. What should I use between the raw tweeter and waveguide ?
Thanks again
Bill
Thanks again
Bill
Don’t use the gasket. Just use screws, no gasket. If you must, use a thin bead of black silicone RTV.
Whew, glad someone asked that, I wouldn't have thought about it and would have used the gasket. Oddly enough I have a tube of black silicone RTV that I use when I de-lid CPUs.
I'm not sure what everyone is planning on doing for binding posts for their XSD's, but I just got these in from aliexpress, https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803529393230.html specifically the L65 model, they are roughly 2.5" x 1.75" x 1/8" (not including the foam gasket). I swapped out the binding posts themselves for some nice Viborg posts. Originally I was going to go with a set of plates from parts-express, but theirs were all too large for my liking.
Nice! I also use Viborg binding posts. They are very nice. I made custom CNC plates for my Signature 80 speakers to use Viborg.
For XSD prototype I used aluminum L channel and two Viborgs:
For XSD prototype I used aluminum L channel and two Viborgs: