80VA is more than enough and if you mount vertically against face or back of box you can contain everything in one box. No hum issues.
Mind you that the French charge high cost freight. But you got to focus on making your phono working properly first and foremost, right? You don't shop for the cherry before making sure you got the cake recipe sorted out.
Mind you that the French charge high cost freight. But you got to focus on making your phono working properly first and foremost, right? You don't shop for the cherry before making sure you got the cake recipe sorted out.
You are right, first of all I need that Right channel sounds & after I will see to reduce the noise changing the Tx, doing cables shorter, doing remote sensing, etc.
Could I use these goodies:
Primary 0-230V
Secondary 0-45V / 1,8A / 81VA
If yes, please be so kind to help me to reduce the secondary voltage after rectification due to the fact that mine filters caps are rated maximum 63V
You can wind a small bucking coil in series with the primary to reduce the secondary voltage. No resistance needed.
Lost photo last up-grade:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello,
in the V.1.2 Vout=+46 V con I use for Q4 one IRF9610 instead of one IRF9540?
Ciao
Guglielmo
in the V.1.2 Vout=+46 V con I use for Q4 one IRF9610 instead of one IRF9540?
Ciao
Guglielmo
Salas
First thanks for your design. I just built the symmetric +5,-5 board for the dac-end. I have a 12.5R Mills resistor on both sides for R1. After I dial in 5v with a 1K load I only get a drop of 1.44 volts (115mA) across R1 on the +5 side, lower than expected. On the negative side I get the closer to expected 2.2V drop across R1 (176 mA). On the positive side I am using IRFP9240's, on the negative side IRFP140's. I was pretty careful checking all of the transistors and leds, they should almost be matched. Any ideas?
Thanks
JimS
First thanks for your design. I just built the symmetric +5,-5 board for the dac-end. I have a 12.5R Mills resistor on both sides for R1. After I dial in 5v with a 1K load I only get a drop of 1.44 volts (115mA) across R1 on the +5 side, lower than expected. On the negative side I get the closer to expected 2.2V drop across R1 (176 mA). On the positive side I am using IRFP9240's, on the negative side IRFP140's. I was pretty careful checking all of the transistors and leds, they should almost be matched. Any ideas?
Thanks
JimS
if equal or near equal current symmetry is required then one must calculate the resistor value after testing and measuring the completed regulator.I have a 12.5R Mills resistor on both sides for R1. After I dial in 5v with a 1K load I only get a drop of 1.44 volts (115mA) across R1 on the +5 side, lower than expected. On the negative side I get the closer to expected 2.2V drop across R1 (176 mA).
The variations in components, particularly the Vgs of the various FETs, causes voltage differences around the circuit that far outweigh the tolerance of +-10% resistors.
Thanks Andrew
I do not need equal current symmetry. I was just worried that the big difference between the current across R1 meant the either I did something wrong, have a bad transistor, and/or my shunt was not going to perform well. If the differences are OK and are due to Vgs differences in the fets, thats OK.
Thanks again
JimS
I do not need equal current symmetry. I was just worried that the big difference between the current across R1 meant the either I did something wrong, have a bad transistor, and/or my shunt was not going to perform well. If the differences are OK and are due to Vgs differences in the fets, thats OK.
Thanks again
JimS
Just change your weak side R1 according to the drop across it by I equals V divided by R so to match your rails current potential. Not because you may need more than available but to have comparable Zo per rail. At so low Vout the Vgs differences play a bigger role. You can parallel some other resistor over your R1 and check it out until it picks up the circa 176mA to match. Looks like you need 8R2 total. But the Vgs can change a little as the Mosfet will run more current. You will see by measuring the drop again.
Shunt Reg. In:55V Out: 45V 200mA
Are you sure that I need 5W for 10R in R1? it's not enough 2W?
Just stick a 10R 5W on each one for R1 and you will be OK. If your chassis will get too hot, go back to 12R, or 15R.
Are you sure that I need 5W for 10R in R1? it's not enough 2W?
Practically its not. RegiRegi was trying the same on a Hypno lately thinking 2W, and when he did run, he recommended a 5W too. Don't worry about resistor quality there at all BTW.
Seem that you can read mine mind abut resistors quality, ok 10R 5W standard quality😀
I don't understand BTW?
I don't understand BTW?
Thanks, I think I will measure all of the voltages in the circuit when I get home from work, just to double check that I did not make a mistake. Then I will try changing resistors, although I might just seek out and replace the offending transistor.
BTW, I just had the Mills 5 W resistors leftover from another project.
THanks again
JimS
BTW, I just had the Mills 5 W resistors leftover from another project.
THanks again
JimS
Just fix the resistor value. Matching Vgs between PMos & NMos and between batches isn't easy luck, there are jigs for that when producing amps with multiples, it will not change anything here, take the easy way, tweak the associated resistor. And we don't know if it is just due to less Vf CCS Leds.
Has anyone tried this reg powering low current DHT like the 71a or DHT preamp filaments? Interested to know if it is unltra quiet as a DC filament supply without the degrade in SQ a series reg DHT filament can have.
For anode pw supply check Simplistic Mosfet HV Shunt Reg thread
For DHT heaters supply, member Disco designed a specific low V hi I version for the #26 that may fit well.
For DHT heaters supply, member Disco designed a specific low V hi I version for the #26 that may fit well.
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