Hi Iko,
Just used generic parts that I can get locally. Smoothing cap is a 10,000uF 50V Nippon Chemicon KMG. Still burning in but seemed to have a more full body sound compared to v1 which has 8,000uF of Rubycon YXA smoothing that could have contributed to the difference in sound heard.
Powering a Monica 3 DAC that was fed from a Shigaclone, I must say it is the best digital sound I heard in my system so far.
Just used generic parts that I can get locally. Smoothing cap is a 10,000uF 50V Nippon Chemicon KMG. Still burning in but seemed to have a more full body sound compared to v1 which has 8,000uF of Rubycon YXA smoothing that could have contributed to the difference in sound heard.
Powering a Monica 3 DAC that was fed from a Shigaclone, I must say it is the best digital sound I heard in my system so far.
Different smoothing capacitors is a parameter that can play a subjective role indeed. When it will burn in, please make a comparison with same filter cap and let us know. Its interesting, because its a DAC and will be a good indication to know if the extra work towards wider bandwidth pays. So to establish a V2.
Planning to remove all filter caps from my v1 built and fix another 10,000uF NC KMG cap that I have. Will compare later when properly burn in.
PANIC !!!!
I power on the amp , the driver trafo buz like hell , on 2 speakers too!
the shunt led are all on , input V are lower on 50v (56)k I misure the four shunt out rails and are ok but the trafo start too hot like burn....
power stage rail and trafo ok
whats up!!!
I power on the amp , the driver trafo buz like hell , on 2 speakers too!
the shunt led are all on , input V are lower on 50v (56)k I misure the four shunt out rails and are ok but the trafo start too hot like burn....
power stage rail and trafo ok
whats up!!!
Something draws too much current? If its in the shunts, just check the voltage drop on each R1. Vdrop/R1=Iccs. If all are normal (around 200mA) then look elsewhere.
I power on for only some second....
V on r1(15ohm) ,tre are 1,1v one is 1,3v near 100ma as in the past
??
V on r1(15ohm) ,tre are 1,1v one is 1,3v near 100ma as in the past
??
Your Vin got down from 56 to 50V. Your trafo buzzes. Somewhere there is strong current being drawn. Something wrong before the shunts on the rectifiers maybe?
Insert a 1/2A fuse between trafo secondary and rectifier, if still ok, in the primary. Do not forget to let the filter caps discharge or discharge them with an appropriate resistor. salas is 100% right, you got a short somewhere. What's the voltage out of the shunt for that brief period when you turn it on?
Edit: it could be the trafo as well. I'd disconnect its secondary from the rectifier diodes/bridge and plug it in alone, measure the AC in the secondary. If OK, connect only the rectifier and measure the DC on +/- but don't have any caps connected. If OK, connect the caps next, measure again. Of course, do plug it out and make sure all voltage is gone when making changes.
Edit: it could be the trafo as well. I'd disconnect its secondary from the rectifier diodes/bridge and plug it in alone, measure the AC in the secondary. If OK, connect only the rectifier and measure the DC on +/- but don't have any caps connected. If OK, connect the caps next, measure again. Of course, do plug it out and make sure all voltage is gone when making changes.
Nichoh,
Dig up your old variac - very useful for this.
I've use a dual variable power supply (2 x 30v) for directly feeding the regulators (can easily check current consumption) then connecting to the transformer, diodes, etc with the variac start. Then it's onwards to the rest of the chain, one step at a time.
Dig up your old variac - very useful for this.
I've use a dual variable power supply (2 x 30v) for directly feeding the regulators (can easily check current consumption) then connecting to the transformer, diodes, etc with the variac start. Then it's onwards to the rest of the chain, one step at a time.
first look , two byv27/200 in short ,but are in place ..2A/200v diode!! (caps are small 1000mf and 1000mf on out shunt)
I go to bench for serius test 🙁
I have 11dq10
I go to bench for serius test 🙁
I have 11dq10
trafo ok ,is a bvy27 that lakage under load ,on static is ok , with no load the raw psu burn 700ma fuse on one rail.....
11dq10 (I 1,1A)are ok?? dual bridge x channel
11dq10 (I 1,1A)are ok?? dual bridge x channel
Yes, but obviously your bridges need sinking. Under the hood and constant current probably gave them a good hassle.
Also watch your reverse voltage to be adequately in spec. Schottky are generally low for that.
Also watch your reverse voltage to be adequately in spec. Schottky are generally low for that.
I am talking Vsecondary*2.82 + 50% line transient safety margin, you must have as PIV spec for your diodes. I.e. a 150-200V PIV in your 40V secondary for full bridge. If your new diode is around 100 you will need 2 in series for each one of the bridge =8 pieces per bridge. Or simply another higher PIV part. What was the PIV of your previous model, failed diodes?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Power Supplies
- The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator