i too was unaware that it was the same write up.
ive decided to go ahead no go with the edcor iron. a couple folks recomended it. so thats settled. 😀
my next concern is hook up wire. last year on my spud amp i used DH labs 14 AWG silver-plated stranded copper. that thickness was a pain to use when i had to connect multiple wires to one spot. i can get it local so thats a major reason id like to use it again. but id like to go w 18 AWG so it wont be such a pita! 😡 i still have some 14 awg on hand that i can use strategically. does that sound like a good idea???
also the hook up for the signal input. i used DH labs BL-1 interconnect cable in my last amp build because i have it on hand. not sure if that was a good idea to use it in the amp... but i like the way it sounds. im not opposed to trying it in the RLD. what is normally used?
peace
phil
ive decided to go ahead no go with the edcor iron. a couple folks recomended it. so thats settled. 😀
my next concern is hook up wire. last year on my spud amp i used DH labs 14 AWG silver-plated stranded copper. that thickness was a pain to use when i had to connect multiple wires to one spot. i can get it local so thats a major reason id like to use it again. but id like to go w 18 AWG so it wont be such a pita! 😡 i still have some 14 awg on hand that i can use strategically. does that sound like a good idea???
also the hook up for the signal input. i used DH labs BL-1 interconnect cable in my last amp build because i have it on hand. not sure if that was a good idea to use it in the amp... but i like the way it sounds. im not opposed to trying it in the RLD. what is normally used?
peace
phil
I used thin (24-26?) solid core for most of my builds, tightly twisted for heaters. Large gauge (10 AWG) solid for the ground buses. Thin coax for the feedback. 18 gauge for the power supply. Nothing fancy, mostly mechanical considerations. I hate using thick wire where the currents are low, it's a pain to work with.
That's interesting, 10AWG for the ground buses; do you need to use a very powerful iron to make a good joint to this?
I imagine it depends on the length of the wire but a cheap Weller 100w gun will work fine. Use good solder, Multicore 63/37 is my favorite. unless you need a ROHS solder, in that case I'd like if you tell me a good one.
In copper? No, you don't need a particularly hot iron, but some descent technique will help things go more easily - make sure you have a clean tip, then add just a bit of fresh solder to the tip, place of the work, add just a bit more solder to get more surface area hot, and by that time, Robert should in fact be your mother's brother, and it will all heat up nicely, and quickly.
As usual, when you can melt new solder on the biggest part, it's all hot enough.
As usual, when you can melt new solder on the biggest part, it's all hot enough.
Yep, Weller soldering gun. In my "nice" build, one end has to go to a copper ground plane, needs plenty of heat and pretinning. 6L6 is spot on.
My Weller WCPT with a "fat" 800 degree tip seems to work about as well as my Weller "gun" for heavy connections.
Sy-what have you found in the way of "thin" coax that works well for feedback runs? I have some small UHF stuff, but it's very stiff.
Sy-what have you found in the way of "thin" coax that works well for feedback runs? I have some small UHF stuff, but it's very stiff.
I used what I had on hand, both for solderer and solderee. 😀 The coax was a thin, flexible mike cable. It's not terribly critical as long as you have the feedback resistor on the signal circuit end- the amp output end has very low impedance, so the cable capacitance is nearly irrelevant.
Thanks! I've used the UHF cable simply because of the small diameter, not the electrical characteristics. I've been looking for something small but more flexible, i.e. less than a 4 inch bend radius! 🙂
I went to Audio Show in Warsaw yesterday. After couple of hours I left with a thought of improving bass response in my RDL amp. Not beacuse Dan Dagostino's and Wilson Audio sounded good. They didn't. That is why.
Took a drill, made two holes and mountede another two caps in PSU (those two grey cylinders at the front). HV CLC filter was 220uF + 10H / 51 ohm + 220uF + 800uF + 800uF. Turned on. No smoke. Silence in LSs. And there came bass. Juicy. Controlled. More detailed. Well I like it.
Took a drill, made two holes and mountede another two caps in PSU (those two grey cylinders at the front). HV CLC filter was 220uF + 10H / 51 ohm + 220uF + 800uF + 800uF. Turned on. No smoke. Silence in LSs. And there came bass. Juicy. Controlled. More detailed. Well I like it.
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hi guys.
i was just reading about the coupling caps for the phase splitter. do they have to be rated to handle a certain voltage?
also i was reading about the grid stoppers. i understand that they should be placed on the grid pin for the ECC81's. should they also be placed on the grid pins for the EL84's?
im getting closer to building this thing! 😀 got about 1/2 the parts on the way. and am ready to order the rest soon. just trying not to forget any thing.
peace
phil
i was just reading about the coupling caps for the phase splitter. do they have to be rated to handle a certain voltage?
also i was reading about the grid stoppers. i understand that they should be placed on the grid pin for the ECC81's. should they also be placed on the grid pins for the EL84's?
im getting closer to building this thing! 😀 got about 1/2 the parts on the way. and am ready to order the rest soon. just trying not to forget any thing.
peace
phil
Yes. Depends on the voltage swing of phase splitter - 400V should be enough in RDL case. Unless you change something.
hi guys.
i have the HLMP-6000 LED's for my rld and was curious. do we always use seven strings of six led's for the array? or does it change depending on which led's we use?
also i have a bunch of irc gs-3 resistors for most of the build. but not 4R7's. so does it really matter what resistors we use on the ends of the led strings?
i was looking at these. RS02B4R700FE70 Vishay/Dale | Mouser
and these. W214R70JALF IRC | Mouser
phil
i have the HLMP-6000 LED's for my rld and was curious. do we always use seven strings of six led's for the array? or does it change depending on which led's we use?
also i have a bunch of irc gs-3 resistors for most of the build. but not 4R7's. so does it really matter what resistors we use on the ends of the led strings?
i was looking at these. RS02B4R700FE70 Vishay/Dale | Mouser
and these. W214R70JALF IRC | Mouser
phil
The HLMPs are a drop in and are even better than the originals. You only need six parallel strings. How many are in each string will depend on whose EL84s you use, but six is a good first guess (that's how many I ended up with for JJ EL84).
ok cool! 🙂
ill be trying the JJ's and these russian tubes Russian 6P14P-EB EL84-6BQ5 Matched and Cryo Pair, Cryoset Online Store to see which ones i like better.
any thoughts on those resistors for the LED array? i have no idea how critical they are.
thanks
phil
ill be trying the JJ's and these russian tubes Russian 6P14P-EB EL84-6BQ5 Matched and Cryo Pair, Cryoset Online Store to see which ones i like better.
any thoughts on those resistors for the LED array? i have no idea how critical they are.
thanks
phil
They're not, other than you want them small and reasonably well-matched. Off the shelf 1% units are cheap (under $0.05)- value can be anywhere from (say) 3R9 to 5R6 as long as they're all the same.