The new "My Ref" Rev C thread

Re: LM3886

marc brown said:
A question about soldering the 3886: most of the pads where the LM3886 pins sit are oval shaped "normal" pads. But, three of the pads aren't really pads they're just through-holes. Are we supposed to solder the leads to those or do the leads "float?"

I know they shouldn't float. So, are they soldered or cut off?


Solder for extra support.

You are exactly correct in they not being connected but they are used for structural rigidity.

The only time they should be cut off is if you were doing a P2P wiring without a PCB. Then you would cut them to remove clutter.
 
samsagaz said:

the chips works OK, the only problem is in the protection circuit, the Relay dont engage.

Did you measured Output bypassing protection circuit ?

How much DC Offset?

samsagaz said:
What Happend if i use BC546C (with much more hfe value) than BC546A?

In the Italian forum several people had problems with transistors that doesn't had the right hfe values but were BC546 and BC639... if you had to replace the ones in kits...

These Mouser's order codes (are the ones that are working in my MyRef) are OK:

512-BC546
512-BC639

You could compare these ones parameters with yours
 
ClaveFremen said:
For C13 I'll start soon too the search for a good one,
you probably know about some of these sites, but for newbies who are looking for guidance with C13: (in no particular order)

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/orgy-capacitors-cap-thread-284863/
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
http://www.ecp.cc/cap-notes.html
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0708/capacitor1.htm http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/1108/capacitor1.htm

Sonicaps and Obbligattos are always great choices, especially for their prices
 
pinkfloyd4ever said:

you probably know about some of these sites, but for newbies who are looking for guidance with C13: (in no particular order)

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/orgy-capacitors-cap-thread-284863/
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
http://www.ecp.cc/cap-notes.html
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0708/capacitor1.htm http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/1108/capacitor1.htm

Sonicaps and Obbligattos are always great choices, especially for their prices

Thanks PinkFloyd4ever,

Sure, I've visited these sites and thanks to HHMHF I've choosen Evox-Rifa PHE426 but I want to experiment also others caps since tests for High Voltage applications doesn't apply directly to low voltage apps. :D
 
Re: LM3886

marc brown said:
A question about soldering the 3886: most of the pads where the LM3886 pins sit are oval shaped "normal" pads. But, three of the pads aren't really pads they're just through-holes. Are we supposed to solder the leads to those or do the leads "float?"

I know they shouldn't float. So, are they soldered or cut off?

the 3 NC leads can be left to float, or cut off, or soldered in.
 
Re: C9 & C21 Caps comparison

ClaveFremen said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


My last post on caps test had no comments but when I start something usually I try to finish it... :D

I've tested all caps in the photo (C9 and C21 positions) and from last post a lot has changed.

C21 position:

- MKP1837 is not the best cap here (it could be for the value, 10nF), too much highs
- Evox-Rifa MMK is not the best too, soundstage is significantly smaller, and sounds harsh
- AVX BQ (like the ones in kits but 100nF) soundstage is even smaller than MMKs but sound is smoother
- Wima MKS2 sounds good,dynamic and involving, it's smooth and has a wide and deep soundstage

C9 position:

- Rubycon ZL here is rubbish
- Panasonic FM is quite good, dinamyc and involving, but has a bit of harshness and basses are a bit bloating
- Nichicon KW is quite good, less harshness than FMs but also less dynamic and a bit confused
- Elna Silmic II (with 40 Hours burn-in) are smooth, with the widest and deepest soundstage, a bit more dynamic than FMs with a stronger and firmer bass. In comparison with KWs and FMs highs are less but I wouldn't call them veiled, IMHO Silmic's tonal balance is more correct.

I hope that this could be useful to someone. :checked:

I'm still asking myself why TP swapped MKS2s with BQs...:scratch:


ClaveFremen have you tried the Nichicon Muse KZ for this application???
 
ClaveFremen said:


Did you measured Output bypassing protection circuit ?

How much DC Offset?

In the Italian forum several people had problems with transistors that doesn't had the right hfe values but were BC546 and BC639... if you had to replace the ones in kits...

These Mouser's order codes (are the ones that are working in my MyRef) are OK:

512-BC546
512-BC639

You could compare these ones parameters with yours


well, i fixed it. I goto the store and purchased BC546C (instead A because cant find the right value, this have a lot more of HFE but looks like works too), BC639, and 1 LM3886, after replace it the amp works!

Really dont know what happend with the other ones!, i was getting too much Offset at output, and that was the problem, the relay dont make contact for the high offset! The LM3886 was fried i think.

now i have 2 channels working, sound are great!
 
Re: Re: C9 & C21 Caps comparison

gabanyayaya said:
ClaveFremen have you tried the Nichicon Muse KZ for this application???

No, 'cause I have 100uF KZs only...and 220uF 50V KZs are 16Ø*25mm !!!

If there was enough place I'd used them for LM3886 decoupling...

In the original Mauro's PCB there was space for 16mm caps!!


samsagaz said:
now i have 2 channels working, sound are great!

:cheers:
 
AndrewT said:
so many PCB designers forget to leave room for capacitor variations, both in size/volume and in pin pitch.
Russ was kind enough to post all the cad files on the original my ref thread. Uriah and I didn't want to mess with the design for fear of screwing things up. But if someone has the background and knowledge they could do a design iteration. Maybe something for another group buy?

peter
 
after listen the amp for many hours im really happy with the sound, but i think that dont have enough bass, i compared it with other lm3886 that i have and have more bass. Why that happend? is possible that the other have more bass because have more capacitors in the PSU? in the other im using 4700uf x 10.

Now i need to goto and purchase 2 more LM3886 for the other 2 monoblicks that dont works too.
 
it's more than just the PSU capacitance.
It is also related to the RC time constants of the input of the opamp and the RC time constant at the input to the power chip and the RC time constant of the feedback network, as well as the peak current ability of the WHOLE PSU to speaker and return route.
 
AndrewT said:
it's more than just the PSU capacitance.
It is also related to the RC time constants of the input of the opamp and the RC time constant at the input to the power chip and the RC time constant of the feedback network, as well as the peak current ability of the WHOLE PSU to speaker and return route.


well, no possible to improve bass? (without spending a lot of money of course)
 
samsagaz said:
after listen the amp for many hours im really happy with the sound, but i think that dont have enough bass, i compared it with other lm3886 that i have and have more bass. Why that happend? is possible that the other have more bass because have more capacitors in the PSU? in the other im using 4700uf x 10.
Dear Samsagaz,

I don't know why your perception of bass is different on the two amps. For starters they may have different frequency responses. The first thing would be to eliminate that as a potential application. For all I know the revC is more neutral and your ears got used to a design that artificially enhances the bass... (could be... I just don't know).

Capacitor size in the PS is a contentious subject. I found (as is so often the case) the writing (and simulation and measurement) of Rod Elliott on this subject very enlightening http://sound.westhost.com/power-supplies.htm.

Note that some of the highly regarded chip amp designs have as little as 2000uF on each rail. (Personally I think that's pushing it, but people report liking them quite a bit.)

I keep coming back to an earlier question/challenge/hypothesis (which, as you read Rod Elliott, also applies here): when people run with higher rated AC toroids they are really comparing with a setup in which the rail voltage is effectively higher (at the same nominal voltage rating of the toroid) and that is the effect they are seeing. A similar argument can be made when increasing the capacitance in the PS (over a certain range).

Anway, long winded ramble in response to your question.

peter
 
samsagaz said:



well, no possible to improve bass? (without spending a lot of money of course)


Are you still using the 100va trafo?

Mauro suggested 200VA MINIMUM. I am using 160 and it is good but as low as I would go FULL-RANGE or MAIN system.

The Apex.jr trafos are good for high passed units or small system amps.

Very happy that you got it working.

If your chipamp has more bass, bi-amp!.. Best of both worlds, Mauro's on top and chip-amp on bottom!
 
troystg said:



Are you still using the 100va trafo?

Mauro suggested 200VA MINIMUM. I am using 160 and it is good but as low as I would go FULL-RANGE or MAIN system.

The Apex.jr trafos are good for high passed units or small system amps.

Very happy that you got it working.

If your chipamp has more bass, bi-amp!.. Best of both worlds, Mauro's on top and chip-amp on bottom!


Based on my notes from the original My_Ref thread, I think Mauro recommended a minimum of 220 VA for a stereo PCB. 160VA per channel seems like it would be more than adequate.

pete
 
troystg said:



Are you still using the 100va trafo?

Mauro suggested 200VA MINIMUM. I am using 160 and it is good but as low as I would go FULL-RANGE or MAIN system.

The Apex.jr trafos are good for high passed units or small system amps.

Very happy that you got it working.

If your chipamp has more bass, bi-amp!.. Best of both worlds, Mauro's on top and chip-amp on bottom!

Yes, still using the 100Watts, just have one of the 150VA trafos when get another will change the case of the amplifier and will start using 150VA ones. The case taht i made right now are for just one heatsink, and come hot after like 10 minutes at high volume (like 80-90%), i measured it and get like 55 C


schro20 said:

A/B/C rating on that transistor doesn't matter (or any of the other two transistors in the protection circuit).

peter


Great!


widman said:



Based on my notes from the original My_Ref thread, I think Mauro recommended a minimum of 220 VA for a stereo PCB. 160VA per channel seems like it would be more than adequate.

pete

Well if maure recommends 220/stereo, i think that 100VA/channel will be not so low :)