Hi,
All metal glazed resistors I've ever tried as anode load resistors had what you described in common.
Best to be avoided.
Ever tried tantalum resistors a la Shinkoh ?
If those Mills are of the non-inductive wire wound type then sure, they should sound better than the ones you had in there before.
Cheers, 😉
All metal glazed resistors I've ever tried as anode load resistors had what you described in common.
Best to be avoided.
Ever tried tantalum resistors a la Shinkoh ?
If those Mills are of the non-inductive wire wound type then sure, they should sound better than the ones you had in there before.
Cheers, 😉
Hi Frank,
I haven't tried Shinkoh resistors, but based on your comment they are now on the list of things to look at. I'm still using mostly NOS Holcos, Caddock MK-132, and a smattering of PRP and Roedersteins - generally the last not in the audio path.
I'm still struggling with the Windfeld, and keep being reminded that those Russian teflons are way better than sliced bread. (I tried some tightly matched REL RTs in their place - no cigar)
The Mills are non inductive 2W type. (They're pretty large for their wattage)
I haven't tried Shinkoh resistors, but based on your comment they are now on the list of things to look at. I'm still using mostly NOS Holcos, Caddock MK-132, and a smattering of PRP and Roedersteins - generally the last not in the audio path.
I'm still struggling with the Windfeld, and keep being reminded that those Russian teflons are way better than sliced bread. (I tried some tightly matched REL RTs in their place - no cigar)
The Mills are non inductive 2W type. (They're pretty large for their wattage)
Hi Kevin,
I've been looking around for sources of 2W Shinkoh resistors in the US but so far nothing.
As for the Teflon caps, those are used in the RIAA correction ?
Does anyone in the US manufacture expanded PTFE caps these days ?
I am not familiar at all with the Windfeld cartridge but to my ears using a Vishay bulk foil (or better still the naked variety of them) definitely makes a noticeable difference in overall transparency.
Happy listening, 😉
Edit: Regarding your linear tracker. You can retrieve lead shot from gaming cartridges, they exist in various grain sizes.
I've been looking around for sources of 2W Shinkoh resistors in the US but so far nothing.
As for the Teflon caps, those are used in the RIAA correction ?
Does anyone in the US manufacture expanded PTFE caps these days ?
I am not familiar at all with the Windfeld cartridge but to my ears using a Vishay bulk foil (or better still the naked variety of them) definitely makes a noticeable difference in overall transparency.
Happy listening, 😉
Edit: Regarding your linear tracker. You can retrieve lead shot from gaming cartridges, they exist in various grain sizes.
Yes, the Russian teflon caps are used for EQ.
I haven't looked for Shinkoh resistors, but mail order from anywhere in Asia is not really a problem.
Rel and VH sell teflon caps, don't know what sort of PTFE they use in their manufacture. I prefer the Vcaps overall, but they're pretty expensive.
Lead shot is just about impossible to find around here since its use is illegal in the U.S. due to environmental concerns and poisoning of wildlife. It's been banned for quite a while, can't get it locally, and it's not on eBay either. My only recourse apparently would be to make it. (It's been replaced with steel shot and other less toxic metals)
I haven't looked for Shinkoh resistors, but mail order from anywhere in Asia is not really a problem.
Rel and VH sell teflon caps, don't know what sort of PTFE they use in their manufacture. I prefer the Vcaps overall, but they're pretty expensive.
Lead shot is just about impossible to find around here since its use is illegal in the U.S. due to environmental concerns and poisoning of wildlife. It's been banned for quite a while, can't get it locally, and it's not on eBay either. My only recourse apparently would be to make it. (It's been replaced with steel shot and other less toxic metals)
Hi,
I am obviously not a hunter.... 😛
I suppose we face the same situation in Europe.
Maybe a dive into the wine cellar looking for old French bottles may help. LOL.
Cheers, 😉
I am obviously not a hunter.... 😛
I suppose we face the same situation in Europe.
Maybe a dive into the wine cellar looking for old French bottles may help. LOL.
Cheers, 😉
Hi KevinKR.
Regards your schematic.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...age-muscovite-mini-iii-_c9-value-revision.png
I have build the pre-amp on a PCB, and I'm using the 6S3P-DR, but I have a slight difference in voltage on the anode ca 155-156 Volt.
I would like to lower it a little to be more save regards the the datasheet which says 150v.
Should this be a concern ???
Michael.
Regards your schematic.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...age-muscovite-mini-iii-_c9-value-revision.png
I have build the pre-amp on a PCB, and I'm using the 6S3P-DR, but I have a slight difference in voltage on the anode ca 155-156 Volt.
I would like to lower it a little to be more save regards the the datasheet which says 150v.
Should this be a concern ???
Michael.
Should be just fine since no other parameters are exceeded. I have never had a problem with tube life.
Note I prefer the 6S3P-EV to the DR version, more consistent transconductance sample to sample and IMO sounds a bit better too. (May depend on who made the DR, no longer remember who made the loaners..)
Note I prefer the 6S3P-EV to the DR version, more consistent transconductance sample to sample and IMO sounds a bit better too. (May depend on who made the DR, no longer remember who made the loaners..)
Michael another thing you could try is a 680 ohm resistor in the drain of the mosfet to drop just a few volts if you are still concerned. (Not sure what the impact on sound quality would be) I'd not drop the voltage because of the effect on the first stage.
Also I have determined that just using a mediocre 2.7uF film cap (C7) for bypassing the supply rail where it enters the pre-amp may not be optimal. I have a combination of 2.7uF and 0.22uF which to my ear sounds more than a bit better. My 2.7uF are garden variety Clarity Caps which I thought would be adequate for the task. In general shunting film caps with others of smaller value is regarded with some suspicion due to potential resonances created, but in this case the addition seems to be beneficial. I can only surmise that the HF performance of the regulators is not as good as I had expected.
How about some pictures of your build, it would be great to see what other people have done with this design.
How are you powering it? If not my supply I would recommend Salas' SSHV as a possible option.
Also I have determined that just using a mediocre 2.7uF film cap (C7) for bypassing the supply rail where it enters the pre-amp may not be optimal. I have a combination of 2.7uF and 0.22uF which to my ear sounds more than a bit better. My 2.7uF are garden variety Clarity Caps which I thought would be adequate for the task. In general shunting film caps with others of smaller value is regarded with some suspicion due to potential resonances created, but in this case the addition seems to be beneficial. I can only surmise that the HF performance of the regulators is not as good as I had expected.
How about some pictures of your build, it would be great to see what other people have done with this design.
How are you powering it? If not my supply I would recommend Salas' SSHV as a possible option.
Hi KevinKr.
My build is very very basic, just to get started. Haven't bought any expensive caps,resistors yet. This first one is on PCB but if I can match
my very basic Tube RIAA I'll consider to hardwire it.
PSU nothing to write about. This is just a startup edition, haven't even bought a suitable enclosure yet.
I have build a 4P1L as my preamp, which I had tweaked over at least 1.5 year which now I almost ready 🙂
Are you a die hard Vinyl addict, or are you in both camps ???
Michael.
My build is very very basic, just to get started. Haven't bought any expensive caps,resistors yet. This first one is on PCB but if I can match
my very basic Tube RIAA I'll consider to hardwire it.
PSU nothing to write about. This is just a startup edition, haven't even bought a suitable enclosure yet.
I have build a 4P1L as my preamp, which I had tweaked over at least 1.5 year which now I almost ready 🙂
Are you a die hard Vinyl addict, or are you in both camps ???
Michael.
I tend more towards the vinyl end of the spectrum but yes I am in both camps.
Even pictures of prototypes are welcome, I'd love to see someone else's implementation. So far only a few people I think have built this.
Even pictures of prototypes are welcome, I'd love to see someone else's implementation. So far only a few people I think have built this.
Hi,
You don't say.... 😀
Yes and it's best to avoid that unless you can actually measure the result.
IMHE every electrolytic PSU cap behind the series cap should be of considerable value (say over a 100 microFd), close to the valve and bypassed with a single good quality MKP cap of at least 4.7 microFd.
Not across the electrolytic cap but right before the anode resistor.
I could go on and on about this but we always listen to our power supply....
Cheers, 😉
You don't say.... 😀
Yes and it's best to avoid that unless you can actually measure the result.
IMHE every electrolytic PSU cap behind the series cap should be of considerable value (say over a 100 microFd), close to the valve and bypassed with a single good quality MKP cap of at least 4.7 microFd.
Not across the electrolytic cap but right before the anode resistor.
I could go on and on about this but we always listen to our power supply....
Cheers, 😉
Kevin, try signal cable silver reference. I found them to be a noticeable improvement over blue jeans options. Very reasonably priced like blue jean as well.
Hi Frank,
I used to build all of my own cables; I am now deliberately getting away from doing that since I am no longer able to get the cables and materials I prefer and all of my latest efforts were subjectively (and in some cases objectively) very flawed.
I don't much like silver plated copper for interconnects so I will stick with the Blue Jeans capable with are objectively about as perfect as can be and seem not to interact with my circuit designs in any way I would not expect or could not explain (rationally). 😀
They're a relative bargain in that they better suited the application than what they were purchased to replace.
I used to build all of my own cables; I am now deliberately getting away from doing that since I am no longer able to get the cables and materials I prefer and all of my latest efforts were subjectively (and in some cases objectively) very flawed.
I don't much like silver plated copper for interconnects so I will stick with the Blue Jeans capable with are objectively about as perfect as can be and seem not to interact with my circuit designs in any way I would not expect or could not explain (rationally). 😀
They're a relative bargain in that they better suited the application than what they were purchased to replace.
Hi,
I see. No idea what materials you prefer, Kevin. Given you're well equipped to make your own measurements, cables are quite "simple" so to speak.
Then of course there's the most important parameter: ears. 😀
Best, 😉
I see. No idea what materials you prefer, Kevin. Given you're well equipped to make your own measurements, cables are quite "simple" so to speak.
Then of course there's the most important parameter: ears. 😀
Best, 😉
The funny thing is I have no idea what materials I prefer as I haven't found them yet. 😀 I can say that my previous experiments with things like a weaved construction similar to the PBJ construction Kimber currently uses, twisted litz wire pairs (my most successful so far), loosely weaved solid silver with polyethylene insulation on it are about it. All have some issue or other. I've not really diy'ed anything where I attempted to make some sophisticated wire geometry.
Oddly enough or perhaps not surprisingly at all the inexpensive Blue Jeans cable easily best anything I've made. (Except for a pair made with a long discontinued cable made by XLO for diy'ers)
Most of the system is balanced now so it's only the phono stages where cable is an issue. I buy commercial XLR cables, you know the kind they use in recording studios at a couple of dollars a foot with the better grade of Neutrik XLR connectors on both ends.
Oddly enough or perhaps not surprisingly at all the inexpensive Blue Jeans cable easily best anything I've made. (Except for a pair made with a long discontinued cable made by XLO for diy'ers)
Most of the system is balanced now so it's only the phono stages where cable is an issue. I buy commercial XLR cables, you know the kind they use in recording studios at a couple of dollars a foot with the better grade of Neutrik XLR connectors on both ends.
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