Beyma 605Nd.
100dB@1w (apparently), 6.5" mid unit, 150-7kHz.
Oh, and distortion is through the floor.
Chris
100dB@1w (apparently), 6.5" mid unit, 150-7kHz.
Oh, and distortion is through the floor.
Chris
Not bad. Probably around 98 dB:
http://prvaudio.com/pdf/8MR500-NDY-4_Datasheet.pdf
BTW, high Q is not an issue when it is crossed over at 300 hz, it is probably better With low Q.
http://prvaudio.com/pdf/8MR500-NDY-4_Datasheet.pdf
BTW, high Q is not an issue when it is crossed over at 300 hz, it is probably better With low Q.
One thing about these PRV drivers is that the sound is very natural and clear. I measured HD levels that were like -60dB at 100dB output.
Not any more sensitive, listed as 98db/w. But it probably deserves at least being mentioned: P-Audio SN8-250N.
Also FaitalPro M5N8-80 deserves some attention even though it lacks oomph below 4-500hz. You *could* compensate a tiny bit for this with playing with xo, and making natural roll off part of the equation. What you get is a tidy top end, and probably better dispersion than with an 8".
Also FaitalPro M5N8-80 deserves some attention even though it lacks oomph below 4-500hz. You *could* compensate a tiny bit for this with playing with xo, and making natural roll off part of the equation. What you get is a tidy top end, and probably better dispersion than with an 8".
Is an 8" becoming very directional by the time one is up to 3kHz?
Will that affect the integration with the other drivers?
Will that affect the integration with the other drivers?
Not bad 🙂 If the measurement are correct it should be possible to geat over 100 dB With the driver you suggested:
http://www.p-audio.co.uk/pdf/SN8_250N.pdf
As far as I can recall there was a discussion here someplace, a 10" you might persuade to xo well at 1800hz, and a 8" might work well to 2200hz. You see a lot of the 8" xo'd at 2500hz or so, it's just a general guideline, no rule without exception.
This is with regards to off axis response and making the drivers work together well.
Edit:
If my memory serves me correct it was 1200hz for 12", 800hz for 15" and 500hz for 18". I make mistakes, this is not an absolute rule, just something I have in the back of my mind.
Edit2:
Also 2700hz for 6.5", 3800 for 5" and 7-8000hz for 4". Don't ask me where these numbers come from, it's stuck.
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I find nominal efficiency to be about as useful as nominal impedance, i.e. not very. There are plenty of 103db drivers that only provide 89db at 250Hz. The imporant thing is the efficiency over the desired bandwidth.
IME it is rare to have an efficiency problem in the midrange of a 3 way. The baffle step typically means the mid should be 4-5 db less efficient than the woofs to match without padding. Add to this bandpass gain if shallow crossovers are used, and by my estimate a 100db mid would require 106db woofers, which isn't really possible without a big horn.
What efficiency are you getting out of your bass drivers, after baffle loss etc?
IME it is rare to have an efficiency problem in the midrange of a 3 way. The baffle step typically means the mid should be 4-5 db less efficient than the woofs to match without padding. Add to this bandpass gain if shallow crossovers are used, and by my estimate a 100db mid would require 106db woofers, which isn't really possible without a big horn.
What efficiency are you getting out of your bass drivers, after baffle loss etc?
It always depends on the situation, but in a multi-way system, you get the most consistent off-axis when you cross each driver before they start beaming. The rule of thumb is that a pistonic driver will start to beam roughly around where the wavelength approaches the piston diameter. Your numbers are way too high.
The rules, of course, are different if one uses different configurations including those with waveguides and/or horns.
There's also the PHL 2520 and others. True 100db. They are a bit clinical if run up to 4-5kHz, but they will do it. Sounded subjectively better if crossed to a 1" comp driver/horn at ~1.6kHz.
I just stated that "a 10" you might persuade to xo well at 1800hz, and a 8" might work well to 2200hz." this also counts for the other driver diameters stated. And also: "this is not an absolute rule, just something I have in the back of my mind."
These numbers are how far up in frequency I find it possible to cross a driver of said diameter and not have significant beaming issues, if you play with polarity, phase and placement of driver, you may get away with little compromise if the driver is well built and there is more natural roll off than break up.
You can state/say/assume/argue/discuss whatever you want, I just want it to be perfectly clear that I did not state any rules of any sort, this is just my own personal guidelines, and I find that it works out all right if the drivers are good and well behaved. There is something nice about large diameter drivers able to play high frequency material, but damn the sweetspot is just such an ego trip.
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Oooops, are you here 😱
I was refering to the measurements here: Supravox 215 EXC Mesurements - page 1
Is your measurement on axis? Lookin good. But still, my main focus in this thread is max SPL pr W.
I remember from your and BB's Supravox that they sound very good and smooth, but are they super-efficient?
Still friends? 😀
Could not resist to show irl performance...
On axis
They are not supereffecient
Maybe 215-2000 ...
As for friendship: want to pay you a visit in the near future
Pm following
On axis
They are not supereffecient
Maybe 215-2000 ...
As for friendship: want to pay you a visit in the near future
Pm following
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Beyma 8ML100 is the loudest 8" midrange 98 db Sensitivity , 150Hz - 7.0KHz , 2.8 kg. magnet Assembly Weight and very good quality. beyma has loudest speakers....
The PRV 8MR500NDY is 100dB and 250 watts AES so not sure if Beyma can claim to be "the loudest". Even if you derate the optimistic 100dB to 98dB, the PRV has 2mm of xmax vs 1mm on the Beyma - so can probably have more SPL for same voltage before hitting xmax. And it's a svelte 2.7lbs.
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I have to say the spectrum and specs are unbelievable on this driver. It is flat from 20Hz to 20khz and is 102dB (on the graph) so not sure where the 106dB comes from. It appears to have no breakup modes - anyone have experience with these? Looks too good to be true.
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