Thanks Dave, I will start to push them.
I measured wattage today, and we are using 0.3 watt for radio speech and maybe 1.5 w for films and classical. My ears are just 3.5 meter from drivers and the amp is a M2 clone.
I think any amplifier can drive this speakers if the room is small. Sensitivity looks enough even for flyweight amps.
Victor
I measured wattage today, and we are using 0.3 watt for radio speech and maybe 1.5 w for films and classical. My ears are just 3.5 meter from drivers and the amp is a M2 clone.
I think any amplifier can drive this speakers if the room is small. Sensitivity looks enough even for flyweight amps.
Victor
Last edited:
While true the amp can make a signigficant differences in the sonics. M2 i expect is really good, one of those is on my wish list.
dave
Today I measured frequency response. REW+Dayton UMM-6 (calibrated). My listening room makes very strange bass response, then I measured Metronomes outside.
Mic is bolted to a post, leveled and 1m from the speaker. The amplifier is setted to 2.0v, which I believe equals to 1w for this driver. No fiber inside the box, just felt in back and top panels.
These are raw graphics on axis and 30º:
Dave, please, tell me which smoothing is most useful and I'll post. And if you like to see any other measurement.
I'm really happy with this measurements. The driver goes very low and is more sensitive that I thought, amazing for a 4". This Pluvia 7HD works well in the Alpair Metronome and is a very good driver for the money. 😀
Víctor
Mic is bolted to a post, leveled and 1m from the speaker. The amplifier is setted to 2.0v, which I believe equals to 1w for this driver. No fiber inside the box, just felt in back and top panels.
These are raw graphics on axis and 30º:
Dave, please, tell me which smoothing is most useful and I'll post. And if you like to see any other measurement.
I'm really happy with this measurements. The driver goes very low and is more sensitive that I thought, amazing for a 4". This Pluvia 7HD works well in the Alpair Metronome and is a very good driver for the money. 😀
Víctor
You want to use some smoothing to get rid of the noise (some sw lets you stack multiple measures to reduce the noise.
Try 1/12 up to 1/3 octave smoothing.
dave
except for the small room related suckout at 200 Hz it looks really good. I’d fire the speakers stright forward which will put you just enuff off-axis to take dvantage of the “better” response there.
Excellent.
dave
Excellent.
dave
Thanks Dave 😀
Like I said before, I'm very happy with these speakers. This pair will go as a present to a friend.
This Pluvia 7HD is a good driver, and the price is right. Markaudio solds them as matched pairs, with wood screws and good rubber seals. The new thin bezel is better than old Alpair because no rebate needed. Highly recommended.
Now I'll go to the next project, a Lowther PM6C 😉
Victor
Like I said before, I'm very happy with these speakers. This pair will go as a present to a friend.
This Pluvia 7HD is a good driver, and the price is right. Markaudio solds them as matched pairs, with wood screws and good rubber seals. The new thin bezel is better than old Alpair because no rebate needed. Highly recommended.
Now I'll go to the next project, a Lowther PM6C 😉
Victor
Besides being easier to use the new basket is better strength wize (but costs quite a bit more).
I have to take the P7PHD out of one of my sets of FH3 and install the P7HD to listen too.
dave
I have to take the P7PHD out of one of my sets of FH3 and install the P7HD to listen too.
dave
Hi everyone,
After having spent the last 8 years on horn systhems, I wanted to get back to a full range unit and just got a pair of the Diaclones P-610 drivers.
In order to get them playing asap, I have been listening to them in a small Tandberg System11 enclosure with the back removed.
It is as far as optimal as it can get, but even still, I am breaking the drivers in and am getting a feel for them.
So far I like what I am hearing, even if I can only compare them to a pair if Fostex Fe127eN I bought many moons ago.
Now, all the plans that are floating around are mostly bookshelfs type, but my understanding is that these units really benefit from larger cabs, and the metronomes really intrigue me.
Would the Diaclones make for good candidates in a metronome?
This is the data from the vendors page:
Qms: 8.69
Qes: 0.57
Qts: 0.47
fms: 49.3 Hz
Vas: 49.5 l
If not, there is also a very cool design for a Kondosan homage dbr or an Onken style plan here on the forum, but that is for an other thread.
Cheers
After having spent the last 8 years on horn systhems, I wanted to get back to a full range unit and just got a pair of the Diaclones P-610 drivers.
In order to get them playing asap, I have been listening to them in a small Tandberg System11 enclosure with the back removed.
It is as far as optimal as it can get, but even still, I am breaking the drivers in and am getting a feel for them.
So far I like what I am hearing, even if I can only compare them to a pair if Fostex Fe127eN I bought many moons ago.
Now, all the plans that are floating around are mostly bookshelfs type, but my understanding is that these units really benefit from larger cabs, and the metronomes really intrigue me.
Would the Diaclones make for good candidates in a metronome?
This is the data from the vendors page:
Qms: 8.69
Qes: 0.57
Qts: 0.47
fms: 49.3 Hz
Vas: 49.5 l
If not, there is also a very cool design for a Kondosan homage dbr or an Onken style plan here on the forum, but that is for an other thread.
Cheers
Greets!
If the specs are reasonably accurate, then TL, MLTL, Metronome, TQWT, etc., will work fine tuned a bit lower than Fs.
GM
If the specs are reasonably accurate, then TL, MLTL, Metronome, TQWT, etc., will work fine tuned a bit lower than Fs.
GM
Thanks GM!
I don’t have access to hornresp, but was thinking of using the “standard” 6.5 enclosure from the plans list, the one for the Fe167e, as it seems pretty flexible and suitable for different drivers (the port can be tweaked)
Would that work?
I don’t have access to hornresp, but was thinking of using the “standard” 6.5 enclosure from the plans list, the one for the Fe167e, as it seems pretty flexible and suitable for different drivers (the port can be tweaked)
Would that work?
Assuming the published data & back-calculating the rest, then you could try this:
L = 60in
St = 16in^2
Sl = 256in^2
Zd = 30in
Dv = 3in
Lv = 0.75in
Lag all internal surfaces 1in OC-703, or equivalent rockwool, SAE-F10 felt, jute underlay, Ultratouch or equivalent. It's a relatively acoustically efficient load but the price is power-handling so go easy on the volume knob. 😉
L = 60in
St = 16in^2
Sl = 256in^2
Zd = 30in
Dv = 3in
Lv = 0.75in
Lag all internal surfaces 1in OC-703, or equivalent rockwool, SAE-F10 felt, jute underlay, Ultratouch or equivalent. It's a relatively acoustically efficient load but the price is power-handling so go easy on the volume knob. 😉
