Interesting news about the subwoofer Steve, my FE127 Metronomes are in the corners of a smallish wood floored room and they produce loads of bass, absolutely no need for a sub. My build did used separate feet screwed into the main panels instead of the "Eiffel Tower" design - maybe this frees up a bit more space for the bass to escape.
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You're probably also affecting the damping applied to the vent. Something well worth exploring anyway.
I will say that one of the more startling things I've heard was the difference between a port length of 2x3 inches (as bought, not much bass) and 2x1.75 inches (lots of bass) that they are supposed to be...
How low is low? 60, 50, 40, 30hz??? I've been going back and forth on this for a few months now and still haven't bought drivers. If they go low enough I'd go with the 108 sigmas. I'm not expecting house shaking lows, but at least some bass is nice.
My ratshack drivers in cardboard boxes tantalize me with the single driver sound and disappoint me at the same time with their peaks and valleys.
My ratshack drivers in cardboard boxes tantalize me with the single driver sound and disappoint me at the same time with their peaks and valleys.
Hi Zacster
Well I don't know how low they go but I have been able to give up the sub with very little loss of extension. LF power? Yes I have lost some of that but the 108EZ Metros seem very extended at the low end with the baseplate attached.
Of course they are not giving the chest thumping wallop that the sub gave but OTOH they sound well very balanced and dynamic with no evidence that I can hear of any peakiness or lumpiness in the bass response.
Steve.
Well I don't know how low they go but I have been able to give up the sub with very little loss of extension. LF power? Yes I have lost some of that but the 108EZ Metros seem very extended at the low end with the baseplate attached.
Of course they are not giving the chest thumping wallop that the sub gave but OTOH they sound well very balanced and dynamic with no evidence that I can hear of any peakiness or lumpiness in the bass response.
Steve.
Dave,
I picked up my Richard Allen speakers today. The cabinets are gone',completely stuffed.
I don't think the miss's will go for the Met's as she freaked about the size of the cabinets already.
They are about 750Hx450Wx300D. They don't seem to have much base to them, I don't know if that's the driver or the cabinet. But they did sound good, very easy to listen to.
I may have to look at some other type of cabinet for these......................
🙁
I will take the drivers out over the weekend and measure them up to see what the dimensions are.
Brett
I picked up my Richard Allen speakers today. The cabinets are gone',completely stuffed.
I don't think the miss's will go for the Met's as she freaked about the size of the cabinets already.
They are about 750Hx450Wx300D. They don't seem to have much base to them, I don't know if that's the driver or the cabinet. But they did sound good, very easy to listen to.
I may have to look at some other type of cabinet for these......................
🙁
I will take the drivers out over the weekend and measure them up to see what the dimensions are.
Brett
enzedone said:
Metronome is a stealth box WAF-wise thou... it would be taller than the existing box (assuming we can find a metronome that works with it0, but even at its widest and deepest unlikely to come anywhere near the dimensions of the old box. And as a truncated pyramid, looks smaller, and more importantly is not a rectangle. Mount a clock face above the driver and tell her it is a matching pair od grandfather clocks 🙂
dave
Yeah, they are actually pleasing to the eye with their shape. They also don't look visually big because of the taper. My cardboard ones are the same height as my big 2-ways but they don't look nearly as big. It sounds like you'll have much larger ones, but still they have a way of blending in.
I have a subwoofer that's the same way, it is a 39" tall black cylinder, 20" diameter, but yet nobody notices it.
I have a subwoofer that's the same way, it is a 39" tall black cylinder, 20" diameter, but yet nobody notices it.
Good idea
Maybe I could tie a line across and tell her it's the new indoor clothes line, put a classA amp underneath and I'll dry the clothes as I listen.........😀
I will pull the driver out tonight and measure it up and take a photo of it.
How do you think the bass will be on these?
Maybe I could add some type of face plate, so that I could remove it and the driver and then replace the driver if it doesn't sound good. Similar size driver to replace it with of coarse.
Maybe I could tie a line across and tell her it's the new indoor clothes line, put a classA amp underneath and I'll dry the clothes as I listen.........😀
I will pull the driver out tonight and measure it up and take a photo of it.
How do you think the bass will be on these?
Maybe I could add some type of face plate, so that I could remove it and the driver and then replace the driver if it doesn't sound good. Similar size driver to replace it with of coarse.
Drivers
Are a couple of pics of the drivers.
The dimensions
260mm Diameter.
89mm deep
The edge of these are very narrow, so i was woundering if it were possible to add some type of plate to the front. The speaker could be attached to this, then the plate screwe into the speaker. As it does not look like I can mount the speaker from the front, otherwise.
And yes you could screw them from the back if you had a router that made nice reverse cuts............no router......
Are a couple of pics of the drivers.
The dimensions
260mm Diameter.
89mm deep
The edge of these are very narrow, so i was woundering if it were possible to add some type of plate to the front. The speaker could be attached to this, then the plate screwe into the speaker. As it does not look like I can mount the speaker from the front, otherwise.
And yes you could screw them from the back if you had a router that made nice reverse cuts............no router......
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How big are those tweeters? Hard to tell from the front but you may have a nice set of thimble tweeters there.
dave
dave
tweeters
Dave,
The tweeters are about 80mm across, the cones are about 57mm in diameter.
There are/were two per unit, rated at 3w ea. in series. They have two caps parallel; 3.3mf.
Is there some sort of coating I can spray onto the cones of the RA's to stiff'n up the paper cone and/or preserve the paper?
Edit; just found some comments you made about plastecoat?(spelling).
I might try the PVA, but watered down, so it's thinner.
Cheers
Brett.
Dave,
The tweeters are about 80mm across, the cones are about 57mm in diameter.
There are/were two per unit, rated at 3w ea. in series. They have two caps parallel; 3.3mf.
Is there some sort of coating I can spray onto the cones of the RA's to stiff'n up the paper cone and/or preserve the paper?
Edit; just found some comments you made about plastecoat?(spelling).
I might try the PVA, but watered down, so it's thinner.
Cheers
Brett.
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Re: tweeters
I used the following on an old set of 10" paper coat woofers (unknown origin). It worked great. Cones are much stiffer and the driver sounds improved - tighter bass.
I put one good coat on.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70
It's waterbased, dries quick and is safe for paper.
enzedone said:
I used the following on an old set of 10" paper coat woofers (unknown origin). It worked great. Cones are much stiffer and the driver sounds improved - tighter bass.
I put one good coat on.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70
It's waterbased, dries quick and is safe for paper.