For comparisons sake, here,s my JVC QL-10 guts
37 caps to replace!
It works well with out doing anything to it, but I can't leave well enough alone
42 pounds with plinth.
Just picked up a desoldering station. Tired of the usual way all those years!
Regards
David
Neat!
A suggestion - ans it will take the QL-10 to the next level - remove the transformer and place it in it's own case, even it it needs a complicated umbilical, it's completely worth it, I've never removed a transformer form a 'table and it not sound anything but wonderful. A genuine enhancement.
A suggestion - ans it will take the QL-10 to the next level - remove the transformer and place it in it's own case, even it it needs a complicated umbilical, it's completely worth it, I've never removed a transformer form a 'table and it not sound anything but wonderful. A genuine enhancement.
The one there is sealed in its own steel enclosure and doesn't hum and has no consequences that would warrant taking it out as of yet.
However isolating it is always a good idea. I generally prefer belt drives for my main TT, but it's nice to compare both ideas once in awhile for a reality check.
Regards
David
However isolating it is always a good idea. I generally prefer belt drives for my main TT, but it's nice to compare both ideas once in awhile for a reality check.
Regards
David
I had belt drive for years. Thorens, Rega, Linn.
For me, I'll simply say that I will never, ever go back. (And that statement is made on my experience modding the SL-1200, I haven't yet heard the SP-10!)
For me, I'll simply say that I will never, ever go back. (And that statement is made on my experience modding the SL-1200, I haven't yet heard the SP-10!)
as on this pic: http://origin.dastatic.com/forums/gallery/data/500/IMG_0580.jpg
are you going to leave all those fioleds naked , or you going to damp them with blue tack/natural rubber/tar tapes ....... whatever you choose to kill ringing ?
You could also think about adding damping material on the cast aluminum chassis BEFORE attaching the PCB.
All these chassis were made with an 80's mind...
By today's standards they are a bit on the "thin" side...
All these chassis were made with an 80's mind...
By today's standards they are a bit on the "thin" side...
Zen Mod - Ah. Perhaps. I don't think damping the chassis would be heplful, but perhaps it would on the metal bottom cover, and on the motor like you suggest.
zeonrider - Between my SL-1200 and the SP-10? I think there will be, as the overall design is actually quite different - my SL- is suspended (Isonoes) and medium mass, the SP- will be high mass with solid feet. I would love to get an identical arm (Graham 2.2) for the SP- but I just don't have that kind of money in my audio budget for a long while...
zeonrider - Between my SL-1200 and the SP-10? I think there will be, as the overall design is actually quite different - my SL- is suspended (Isonoes) and medium mass, the SP- will be high mass with solid feet. I would love to get an identical arm (Graham 2.2) for the SP- but I just don't have that kind of money in my audio budget for a long while...
Coincidentally, two wrecks looking much like yours just showed up at my house, due to the kind generosity of one of my favorite tube amp designers (hint: his initials are kk😀). So I may be singing along with you...
SO it looks like we are up to 5 decks - my two, your two, and jpjones3318 has one as well.
We need photos, guys! 🙂
We need photos, guys! 🙂
Yeah, I figured out that part. 😀 jp and Jim are helping me out with the plinths. I'm going to dig into the electronics, and maybe do something with the bearing lubrication if that looks like something that needs improving (made a big difference in my VPI). Doing new mats might be interesting- I have some ideas and the ability to compression mold rubber.
I will tell the world publicly that I now have a man-crush on Kevin.
Now I feel like I should rush out and buy another! 🙂 Mine's purdy though...
And is the source of my original comment about it being about time I could help him spend some money, as he's the one that talked me in to buying this one.
I adjusted the phase tracking today. Using a DSO, I had to stop acquisition to measure as wave T isn't at the same frequency as wave S, so it wasn't showing consistently and there was some noise causing both waves to jump around a teeny bit.
This is at 33 RPM - it's supposed to be 6.3 +/- 0.2ms, and we're at 5.95ms.
And adjusted to 6.30ms
45 RPM isn't adjusted, but should be 4.7 +/- 1.3ms. I'm at 4.25ms, so we're good.
Last was 78 RPM, which was significantly off. The right cursor is where it's supposed to be - 2.70 +/- 0.1ms. I believe it was 1.6ms or so.
And here it is adjust to 1.68ms. The control on this one is rather touchy.
Last, here's what things look like on an analog scope.
Next, service the bearing and start figuring out a plinth 🙂
And is the source of my original comment about it being about time I could help him spend some money, as he's the one that talked me in to buying this one.
I adjusted the phase tracking today. Using a DSO, I had to stop acquisition to measure as wave T isn't at the same frequency as wave S, so it wasn't showing consistently and there was some noise causing both waves to jump around a teeny bit.
This is at 33 RPM - it's supposed to be 6.3 +/- 0.2ms, and we're at 5.95ms.
And adjusted to 6.30ms
45 RPM isn't adjusted, but should be 4.7 +/- 1.3ms. I'm at 4.25ms, so we're good.
Last was 78 RPM, which was significantly off. The right cursor is where it's supposed to be - 2.70 +/- 0.1ms. I believe it was 1.6ms or so.
And here it is adjust to 1.68ms. The control on this one is rather touchy.
Last, here's what things look like on an analog scope.
Next, service the bearing and start figuring out a plinth 🙂
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JP - looks great! I'm glad it's straightforward to set after the re-cap.
SY - user510 sells Torlon bearing caps that he makes, JP and I have got them, haven't yet installed. Also will get a SiN ceramic thrust ball, as it has lots of cool factor.
SY - user510 sells Torlon bearing caps that he makes, JP and I have got them, haven't yet installed. Also will get a SiN ceramic thrust ball, as it has lots of cool factor.
In reading the MKIIA service manual, the procedure is completely different between the two models.
The thing I love is that these 'tables were sourced out of Massachusetts, and have some taped on labels describing what's wrong with them. One label says, "Wicked fast on 78."
