The first DIY loudspeaker I am working on

test SPL and adjust speaker, dsp, environemn, test and adjust, test and adjust......
finally, the SPL looks smooth......

in the beginning, without diffusion block board

T11.jpg


after diffusion block board on the wall, looks much better, only one big peak in 38Hz, it is always easy to handle the peak, but hard for the valley
T21.jpg


cut off the peak in 38Hz, the SPL looks vey smooth
T31.jpg
 

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I have a question about this picture:

View attachment 1202615

I know that the beginning of the horn/waveguide should be as close as possible to the sound outlets or the diaphragms. Otherwise you would get a reflection chaos. Why has this been done differently here? Have these combinations of drivers and waveguides ever been examined metrologically?

An example of an AMT with waveguide from Beyma, image from Vance Dickason's Audioxpress Test Bench:

View attachment 1202619

Many greetings,
Michael
it is very complex, I did lots of testing for the horn shape, finally, that shape make SPL very flat, and sounds very smooth, it is really some different between theory and practice.
 
A real ribbon-tweeter like the Neo CD 3.0 would have a resistance of close to 0 ohms without an output transformer, with its built-in output transformer this only applies to the lower frequency range, which must therefore be filtered out with a capacitor so that the responsible power amplifier does not "see" a short circuit.

But as you already wrote:

"it is really some different between theory and practice."

So try it out. 😉

Many greetings,
Michael
 
Yes you are right, Neo 3.0 present good performance in high frequency.
JBL 076 prensent decrease after 15k.
so that I use a 1.5uf capacitance to simpley seperate around 15k to Neo 3.0, this will make the SPL higher and sounds better after 15k.
bty, my system is DSP to seperate 4 ways + 1 way with capacitance for HF.