Since were back on the tuning port and bass response in general...how many builders are running subwoofers with their Elsinores? I have some DIY 3 ways with 12" midbass/woofers that I can listen too without subs but I still enjoy the impact and richness of my subs.
I have 4 subs, right now I'm only running 3 because I needed one for my truck. I also, prefer running a sub although...I was listening to music the other night after my kids and wife had gone to sleep, and I turn off the subs. It was a weekend the next morning, and I had stayed up late. My wife was playing something for the kids the next morning. I woke up and thought, "I need to turn those subs off.' I went out into the living room, and said to my wife, "Are you trying to get back at me for last night." And went to turn off the subwoofer amp. It was already off!
So, yeah... Pretty sure when Joe says "little need for a subwoofer", he knows what he's saying.
So, yeah... Pretty sure when Joe says "little need for a subwoofer", he knows what he's saying.
Subs can reduce resonance as much as they can add bass, so it's not clear without some measurements.
Based on some quick spreadsheet math, I get 72.47L or approx 2.56 cubic feet. For 32-35Hz looks like a 3” diameter port that’s 3.88-5” long would work. Thanks for the help!
gjcourt, et al:
~75l volume estimate does not take the staffing into account, after you add that, the volume is closer to 100l according to Joe (could be less or more depending on how much you add though).
I am using this calculator: Woofer Port Calculations
- 88mm diameter, 32Hz and 100l internal volume with k=0.732: port length comes to 11.38cm (or 10cm for 33.3Hz)
- 88mm diameter, 32Hz and 100l volume with k=0.614: port length comes to 12.42cm (or 11.05cm for 33.3Hz)
k is determined by:
Both ends flanged: k = 0.850
One end flanged, one end free: k = 0.732
Both ends free: k = 0.614
(Normally, k = 0.732 is assumed)
IMHO, the safer approach is to start with a 125mm long tube, and go down from there to possibly 100-110mm (or lower) after actual testing. It is easier to cut some tube off than to add it back! 🙂
~75l volume estimate does not take the staffing into account, after you add that, the volume is closer to 100l according to Joe (could be less or more depending on how much you add though).
I am using this calculator: Woofer Port Calculations
- 88mm diameter, 32Hz and 100l internal volume with k=0.732: port length comes to 11.38cm (or 10cm for 33.3Hz)
- 88mm diameter, 32Hz and 100l volume with k=0.614: port length comes to 12.42cm (or 11.05cm for 33.3Hz)
k is determined by:
Both ends flanged: k = 0.850
One end flanged, one end free: k = 0.732
Both ends free: k = 0.614
(Normally, k = 0.732 is assumed)
IMHO, the safer approach is to start with a 125mm long tube, and go down from there to possibly 100-110mm (or lower) after actual testing. It is easier to cut some tube off than to add it back! 🙂
A short question regarding the SS2608.
I know there is at least one output graph somewhere on this forum. But can´t find it.
If someone have such a graph and even better also have an impedance graph for the tweeter with the WG alone (with no midbass) I would be very thankful.
🙂😀
I know there is at least one output graph somewhere on this forum. But can´t find it.
If someone have such a graph and even better also have an impedance graph for the tweeter with the WG alone (with no midbass) I would be very thankful.
🙂😀
as in room resonances? Yes indeed. at some point multiple woofers become active bas straps as well as bass augmetation.
dave
AllenB. Thanks for the advice but 2608 is all over the place, and I can still miss it when someone use the word “speaker” instead of the actual name.
My freakin savages. I love my kids, don't get me wrong, and I don't treat them the way my parents treated me and my brothers, but some times I think maybe I should... should I throw down the iron fist?! Any way...
So I was changing out some cables etc, and I had to move my A/V rack and speakers, and when I was moving the speakers back, I noticed a nice little slash, in the surround on one of my drivers. Two actually. They are not very big, I have no idea how they got there, looks like it was done with a razor blade, but I'm going to absolutely need to replace that driver! A razor blade? Yeah, like I said savages...no idea how, why, when. WHY? It's a perfect cut, and very small. But a nice little triangle on one slice. And these savages are only 8 and 3!
Any way, Joe advice? I have the older MK6 drivers, and it's one of the upper drivers.
So I was changing out some cables etc, and I had to move my A/V rack and speakers, and when I was moving the speakers back, I noticed a nice little slash, in the surround on one of my drivers. Two actually. They are not very big, I have no idea how they got there, looks like it was done with a razor blade, but I'm going to absolutely need to replace that driver! A razor blade? Yeah, like I said savages...no idea how, why, when. WHY? It's a perfect cut, and very small. But a nice little triangle on one slice. And these savages are only 8 and 3!
Any way, Joe advice? I have the older MK6 drivers, and it's one of the upper drivers.
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I still see a few listed on some sites....some in Europe. Not sure if they're really in stock. Ebay?
I am considering building a pair of these and wonder if there are any owners in my area of NE Ohio. Cleveland, Stow, Akron..........? I would really enjoy hearing them if someone were so kind as to share the experience.
Cheers,
David
Cheers,
David
To be fair to my wild offspring, I don't have a clue what this is or what caused it. There are two tears in each driver. 2 very small triangle shaped cuts and 2 very small single cuts. Honestly, I doubt very much that they are big enough to effect the way they play, except maybe over time. I have two new drivers coming, which I will not be installing until the 3-year-old is a couple of years older, if he survives that long. 😉
What bothers me the most is that I don't know what caused these. I have a kid barrier in front of them and one of the drivers is at the very top, but there was stuff in front of the one, they could climb on to get to that height. I hate grilles, but I'm considering it. I guess it would not be the end of the world if I had to change the one crossover and change the drivers to the newer ones.
Being able to replace drivers and crossover components was one of the thing that got me interested in DIY in the first place.
I like the idea of a grille. If you start with a baffle sized sheet and rout out driver holes with an outward radius just beyond the roll surrounds, you should have no sound problems and you can cover it with a sock of grille cloth, or you could try perforated grilles like used for car speakers.
I don't have an obvious answer, but maybe if you could get some kind of rubber sealant that does dry out and stays flexible and use judiciously, that might work. But test it first, make a longer bead and let it dry and see if it is highly pliable. This means it won't constrict the surrounds moving.
It is important to have well-sealed surrounds or the pressures inside the box can cause odd noises and distortion. But the above only works if the damage is minor and you say the cuts look clean. Hope that helps. Maybe some kind of motoring repair shop might put you on something that could be used. I can see them using stuff that might suit.
A short question regarding the SS2608.
I know there is at least one output graph somewhere on this forum. But can´t find it.
If someone have such a graph and even better also have an impedance graph for the tweeter with the WG alone (with no midbass) I would be very thankful.
🙂😀
I throw in this post again to see if someone sees it. Sorry!
I know that this question will be asking for something that is not the original Elsinores (which I have a pair of and really like) but:
Has anyone experimented (with a good result) with a "better" (read more open airy sub detailed etc) tweeter than the 2608/WG, with or without a WG in the Elsinores (or similar)?
Has anyone experimented (with a good result) with a "better" (read more open airy sub detailed etc) tweeter than the 2608/WG, with or without a WG in the Elsinores (or similar)?