The diyAudio Firstwatt F6

Keratherm, yes. Heatsink, no. (Sorry, I'm totally used to this question being about heatsink required...)

To quote Papa - (from F5 manual)

"To keep the temperature rise of the heat sink to 20 deg C. above the ambient temperature, you will want a heat sink rated at about .6 deg C./watt for each transistor. An example of this would be a chunk of finned aluminum, with a series of 2” fins attached to an 8” by 6” base. You will need two per channel."
So that's 48in^2 per device, and that 48in^2 has 2inch fins.

In Metric,

8" = 20cm
6" = 15cm

300cm^2 per device, and the heatsink has 5cm fins.
 
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Really? I don't find the F6 to be bright.

F5, now there's bright.

After this comment from Mr Pass I knew I must look elsewhere for my "tad of brightness" in my horn system. Who am I to question the master of amplifier design and if he says the amplifier is not bright it must not be. Horns have a tendency to be bright so that is where I looked. After changing the crossover some more and lowering the attenuation of the mid range range driver approximately 3db I have found audio bliss. I was listening with a SE BA3 amplifier with 3 output stages before the F6 and was happy with the sound. The F6 showed so much more detail revealing flaws in my total system that had to be upgraded. This happens when a better piece of equipment is placed in your system. The F6 reveals the most detail, soundstage and bottom end that I have had in my system. I look forward to building a V-fet amplifier to see how much better my system can sound.

Thank you Mr Pass for setting me on the right path.

Before your comment I was swapping back and forth with the BA3 and F6. The BA3 sounds very very good with my speakers but when I placed the F6 back in my system is was obviously more revealing and for lack of a better word "clearer sounding".
 
Hi to all, my F6 did't turn on yesterday. The fuse blew up. So I cut the supply wires to the boards (no load) and checked again: another fuse blow. The trasfo and rectifier are okay, one channel psu is okay but the other one is out of order, I presume a short into some cap.
Everything seem okay, no signs of burning or whatever, the IRFP240 looks good. I think I shorted the output of that channel and my question is: is it possible that I have damaged just the psu cap?



-Alex
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
sorry , I re-read your post more carefully now

check mosfets at least with diode test , to check for shorts

back up pots all way down (minimum current) then repeat entire setting procedure , observing currents (voltage on both source resistors) and output offset

check source resistors too , prior to powering up