yup, that's the part I like too....drilling / tapping, thinking about construction, WAF 😀
In one big mess creating something beautiful 🙂
In one big mess creating something beautiful 🙂
yup, that's the part I like too....drilling / tapping, thinking about construction, WAF 😀
In one big mess creating something beautiful 🙂
Oh, its not that bad, but with the First Watt and Burning Amp stuff all on that same layout, and same power supply operating most all, modular design and so forth, it would make converting an F-5 to say a F-6 easy peasy, plus the outputs not removed would mean no early replacement of Keratherms and so forth.
Just un-do the power supply and signal wires, remove heatsink with boards intact, replace with different heatsink/amp, brackets and all, in very short period. So far, I have built everything separate in its own case.🙂
Russellc
That´s good news. Do the power mosfets have to be paired?
If you don't want to match them yourself, then member h_a can hook you up with some matched 240s.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/178558-matched-fets-your-f1-f4-f5-aleph-j.html
Boy, that was fast, just ordered the F6/Jensen kit Sunday and it just showed up at my door. Now I need to wait until the matched JFets are back in stock.
PJN
PJN
Boy, that was fast, just ordered the F6/Jensen kit Sunday and it just showed up at my door. Now I need to wait until the matched JFets are back in stock.
PJN
Yes, mine is supposed to be delivered today...very fast indeed. BTW, there are still kits left in the store.
Russellc
Does anyone know the rating of the resistors besides the 3 w ones (R1,2,3),
!/2 W , or 1/4 W ?
Thanks,
PJN
!/2 W , or 1/4 W ?
Thanks,
PJN
plain MF ones (400 to 600mW , depending who's writing data)
colored stripes - usually are Beyschlag etc. or you can use fancyschmancy Dale , non magnetic leads
these are better - you can read value on them
colored stripes - usually are Beyschlag etc. or you can use fancyschmancy Dale , non magnetic leads
these are better - you can read value on them

...these are better - you can read value on them![]()
Yes, especially the CMF version in which the explicit value is printed, instead of the three significant figures and multiplier found in the RN type.
Search Mouser for RN60 or, if you are willing to spend a bit more, CMF60. They will fit perfectly on the amplifier PCBs available at the DIYAudio store.
dunno
I'm poor Contadino ..... color coded Beyschlags are good enough to me
besides , they're keeping my two brain cells occupied

I'm poor Contadino ..... color coded Beyschlags are good enough to me
besides , they're keeping my two brain cells occupied

... they're keeping my two brain cells occupied
You only have two left? What have you done to all the others?
😕
You seem to be doing well with only two. They must be big...
😀
By the way, since we are clowning around, have you thought about
Zen Mod's Amp Builder's Summer Camp
? That could bring you some extra cash to afford new toys.
😎
And before anybody complains about off-topic posts, I am waiting for my PCBs, trafos and case...
I did my part, it ain't my fault that it's taking so long.
😀
By the way, since we are clowning around, have you thought about
Zen Mod's Amp Builder's Summer Camp
? That could bring you some extra cash to afford new toys.
😎
And before anybody complains about off-topic posts, I am waiting for my PCBs, trafos and case...
I did my part, it ain't my fault that it's taking so long.
Right off, the 18 ohm RN60s are a no-go from Mouser unless you want to wait several months for them to come back in stock.
Right off, the 18 ohm RN60s are a no-go from Mouser unless you want to wait several months for them to come back in stock.
I'll be using 100 ohm || 22 ohm since that's what I happen to have already.
You seem to be doing well with only two. They must be big...
😀
By the way, since we are clowning around, have you thought about
Zen Mod's Amp Builder's Summer Camp
? That could bring you some extra cash to afford new toys.
😎
And before anybody complains about off-topic posts, I am waiting for my PCBs, trafos and case...
I did my part, it ain't my fault that it's taking so long.
before saying anything , take care of using that >😎< smiley ....... we all know which Dark Force is solo entitled to using it

regarding Zen Mod's Amp Builder's Summer Camp ........ there are some things pro et contra ;
pro: I'm always for fun , also more liking to dream about and to make them , then to actually have them ; it probably helps that I already have too much amps (etc.) but after some evaluation , I'm always keen to proceed with dream about and .......
contra: it would be somewhat expensive for participants , at least from your side of Big Splash (considering that you titled it in English and there is obvious analogy to Papa's Camp) to make a hop to Serbia ........

😉
Although much has been changed for rhetorical purposes, it must be regarded in its
essence as fact. However, it should in no way be associated with that great body of factual information relating to orthodox Zen
Buddhist practice. It’s not very factual on motorcycles, either.
Yes, mine is supposed to be delivered today...very fast indeed. BTW, there are still kits left in the store.
Russellc
Mine's floating in the ether. 🙂
Yes, mine is supposed to be delivered today...very fast indeed. BTW, there are still kits left in the store.
Russellc
And it didnt get here! Oh well, another day or two wont hurt.😕
Russellc
plain MF ones (400 to 600mW , depending who's writing data)
So 1/4W metal film resistors will not work for R4-R12?
Thanks...
Right off, the 18 ohm RN60s are a no-go from Mouser unless you want to wait several months for them to come back in stock.
At the time that I bought mine (about two or so weeks ago) they didn't have 18 ohms in RN60, but they had 18.2 ohm, which is what I went with.
Just as a general FYI (if it hasn't been addressed elsewhere and I missed it); I used 50v 1000uF Nichicon Muse KZ's which are seemingly massive at 18mm x 40mm. On one of the PCB's one of the caps is nearly pressed up against a 3 watt resistor. I don't think it'll be an issue, my 3 watters are raised off the PCB so I could bend it away from the cap. Just a warning if anyone else decides to use monster caps!

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