I heard the top set of speakers at an audio show late last year. They sounded quite nice, but the price was not so nice.
If you want to go OB subwoofer I would be inclined to look at StigErik's setup, I think it makes more sense then those shown.
The top ones are full active and there was fairly complex electronics involved. If memory serves me right the price tag was AU$188k.
Anyone with a keen eye and a big enough photo will be able to identify what drivers they are... the are commonly used on this forum. I use some of the top ones.
If you want to go OB subwoofer I would be inclined to look at StigErik's setup, I think it makes more sense then those shown.
The top ones are full active and there was fairly complex electronics involved. If memory serves me right the price tag was AU$188k.
Anyone with a keen eye and a big enough photo will be able to identify what drivers they are... the are commonly used on this forum. I use some of the top ones.
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Hi,
It works in that it makes noises. Its very poor design though.
Performance vs cost is poor, its brute force over good design.
rgds, sreten.
It makes noise is just about what it would sound like.......You can get a brick to fly, if you have enough power.............same thing here.
_______________________________________________________Rick..........
_______________________________________________________Rick..........
Not sure I would be so quick to be cynical, they were actually one of the best sounding speakers at the show... There was only one other set I thought sounded better, so the design can't be that crap. However I will say putting one driver behind the other is not optimal in terms of delay or design, but as I said above the electronics that controlled the speakers was quite impressive.
Hi djk,
I'm almost sure you wanted to link to this one: http://www.adamjhill.com/Hill + Hawksford - AES 128_1.PDF
Regards,
I'm almost sure you wanted to link to this one: http://www.adamjhill.com/Hill + Hawksford - AES 128_1.PDF
Regards,
A brick to fly LOL what a hoot !!
I was just going to chime in here and say a di-pole subwoofer is an oxymoron, but I liked yours better, lol !!!
seriously though.....of all the "di-pole" subs I have heard, they all make noise and find some sort of room mode somewhere, then, the owner/builder says, : "see, they have bass ! "
I was just going to chime in here and say a di-pole subwoofer is an oxymoron, but I liked yours better, lol !!!
seriously though.....of all the "di-pole" subs I have heard, they all make noise and find some sort of room mode somewhere, then, the owner/builder says, : "see, they have bass ! "
I have heard a dipole bass system that did produce some low end.
IIRC, there was a pair of 18" drivers and a 15" driver per side.
I could match it for SPL with a couple of those TB 6.5" mini-subs in a tapped horn each. 😀
Chris
IIRC, there was a pair of 18" drivers and a 15" driver per side.
I could match it for SPL with a couple of those TB 6.5" mini-subs in a tapped horn each. 😀
Chris
The only thing any boxed woofer has over dipole is SPL... As I said I heard these and they sounded streets ahead of dozens of boxed woofers. Yes they probably had a million watts powering them but they were so much crisper than any boxed woofer. The only thing I liked more than these were ceiling to floor line arrays with a massive sub box.
And to be fair the ones I liked the most were in a bigger room than those, the room was barely big enough to fit the people in.
And to be fair the ones I liked the most were in a bigger room than those, the room was barely big enough to fit the people in.
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While a great theory to implement it is quite impractical both in obscene amounts of power needed, costs for said amplification and driver costs. As to outright accuracy, sure our circuits can now twist any and all signals any way we want.........we can boost bass response perhaps 100 Db....if our system needs it....is it ' better ' ? Let's not even consider discussing the downside of large excursions & distortion..... Do I want a system that REQUIRES a Wattage level that of a Stadium......just to prove a theory? Do I want a system with an active, reactive EQ which is complex enough to control with such minutia of a half dozen drivers per side..........No. When one gears up to measure outright performance of these systems with full performance documentation...rather than anecdotes, then I'll decide if it really is worth it, not beforehand.
______________________________________________________Rick........
______________________________________________________Rick........
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There are those that would argue the merits of OB bass, but I don't know if I would count myself in that number. I do like the sound, but the fullness I was looking for just wasn't to be found.
OP was looking for feedback on that particular design. I believe it to be the least efficient of any OB design, as there is no baffle at all, and all gain would have to be achieved through throwing more power and EQing at it.
That's why I suggested they take a look a StigErik's OB bass because it at least uses some H boxes to try capitalize on the baffle.
As for me I never ran into the commonly purported excursion issues, in fact I could never get my drivers to move beyond a 1mm or 2mm even with a 1000w per channel, hence why I have just bought a pair of passive radiators to try get the bass I need without buying another dozen drivers.
OP was looking for feedback on that particular design. I believe it to be the least efficient of any OB design, as there is no baffle at all, and all gain would have to be achieved through throwing more power and EQing at it.
That's why I suggested they take a look a StigErik's OB bass because it at least uses some H boxes to try capitalize on the baffle.
As for me I never ran into the commonly purported excursion issues, in fact I could never get my drivers to move beyond a 1mm or 2mm even with a 1000w per channel, hence why I have just bought a pair of passive radiators to try get the bass I need without buying another dozen drivers.
What drivers are you using that have only 2mm movement (peak to peak or one way?) with 1000 watts input?
How did you determine the drivers had received 1000 watts with only 2mm movement?
TC Sounds Pro 5100... and very good question , I am starting to think the output voltage from my active xover is too low to get proper output from the amps. I currently have the new Crown I-Tech 9000 bridged into a TC Sounds Ultra LMS 5400 and I only have marginally more output with 100% volume on the amp. Which all points to needing a preamp before each of the amps or bumping up the voltage into the Ground Sound DCN28.
Hi Silent Screamer,
The voltage at the speaker input terminals, and the current into and out off the terminals will give you an idea of how much power you are driving into the speaker.
Regards,
The voltage at the speaker input terminals, and the current into and out off the terminals will give you an idea of how much power you are driving into the speaker.
Regards,
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An unbaffled, unequalized 15" driver is going to start rolling off at 6 db per octave starting from about 900hz.
If memory serves me right they were claiming it played down to 20Hz (and it sounded fairly low) so that is one heck of a lot of EQ. But I am guessing that comes as a surprise to no one...
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have not read the whole thread, but I was experimenting lately with dipole sub and got quite good results, if anyone is interested to look at my pages:
Audio Pages: Dipole subwoofers
Audio Pages: Dipole subwoofers
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