Yeah, you can use one MaxAmp20 to power a Halfinator. Contact WesleyK (accusafe) to see if you can get a halfinator pack (half of this: Kistradio en Kratradio Specialist - Boominator Speakerpack - Piezo Monacor MPT-001 - Boominator Sets - Sets)
The one you linked is wrong, you need this one: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?redirect=1&mid=ed70429792f0ff9d421ffb972735edc
But then only half of it ofcourse. Should be around 300x300x495 including the electronics compartiment.
But then only half of it ofcourse. Should be around 300x300x495 including the electronics compartiment.
Thank you for that. Also, I tried searching for the circuit schematic in this thread but couldn't find it
That's because it's different for everybody. If you list your components I can draw one for you.
Just the MaxAmp; you can choose yourself if you want JST or 3.5mm. Doesn't matter performancewise ofcourse; I prefer JST.
with the 3.5mm volume is controlled by the input device, while jst you can control the volume with a knob, yes?
No, the volume knob is always JST. You have the choice between the audio input: 3.5mm or JST. With 3.5mm you can plug in a cable directly, with JST you can wire up an external jack.
Ah, I misread your post - I though it said JST does perform better. I was thinking, well that contradicts what Saturnus said. Why do you prefer JST?
Because then you can wire it up to an external jack. Most boominators don't have direct access to the amp, so it's handy to make the audio input external. Feel free to send me a private message to prevent the slowchat in this topic.
What? Why? I don't think I've said anything on the subject one way or the other.
Ah, Sorry. I believe it was something I read in the first 16 pages of the thread - It might have been referring to something else or I may have misquoted you. I will try to find what it is I was talking about. Also, I found the sketch up for the box I am going to use here:
Lightweight Half Boominator - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
I haven't decided on the woofers yet but lutkeveld has been passing his knowledge my way and it has really been helping a lot. Since I live in the US I can use the Goldwood GW-1058's or the Eminence Basslite S2010's for the drivers (woofers). These are apparently the alternative if you live in the states and don't want to pay the European shipping fee. If I go this route lutkeveld mentioned I should use a horn rather than a piezo. I haven't decided if I want to go 12V or 24V but I am keen on sound and quality (since the box is already small I'm not too worried about adding extra weight). I could also use the P.Audio-HP10W's with the Monacor MPT-001 Piezo Tweeters. So far all I know for sure is the 12mm plywood and the dimensions. What do you guys think so far? We also discussed discharge switch along with some other useful things including rectangular bass reflex ports as the sketch-up from the thread I linked uses circular. Also, I was going to move the dish to the top and put the bass reflex ports on the sides to double as handles (this was something lutkeveld mentioned which sounded like a good idea). This is my first project and I find it particularly fitting as I've been wanting to build a boombox for the past 4 or so years but I finally finished college and have found time to tackle something such as this.
The sketch up you link to is not a Boominator or half a Boominator. Use the original design for the Boominator as lutkeveld said and linked above. Then just use one side, meaning one speaker compartment.
Loudspeakerplus.com is a US dealer that does now have the HP10W thanks to the lobbying work of aterren although it's not on their stock driver list. Just send them a mail.
The PHT407N horn will quite obviously sound better than using piezos although the sound quality is quite acceptable with quality piezos especially when treated with dampening on the horn. For Europeans the Monacor MPT001 is readily available and is quite ok, and more importantly, it's consistent quality so you don't have to buy 10 and then throw out the ones that are not up to snuff as you do with dirt cheap replicas. In the US I'd probably use a Goldwood GT-1001 (from speakercity.com for example) take of the driver and use the driver from the GRS PZ1005 from parts-express.com. That would get you a piezo that is extremely close to the original Motorola piezo.
Loudspeakerplus.com is a US dealer that does now have the HP10W thanks to the lobbying work of aterren although it's not on their stock driver list. Just send them a mail.
The PHT407N horn will quite obviously sound better than using piezos although the sound quality is quite acceptable with quality piezos especially when treated with dampening on the horn. For Europeans the Monacor MPT001 is readily available and is quite ok, and more importantly, it's consistent quality so you don't have to buy 10 and then throw out the ones that are not up to snuff as you do with dirt cheap replicas. In the US I'd probably use a Goldwood GT-1001 (from speakercity.com for example) take of the driver and use the driver from the GRS PZ1005 from parts-express.com. That would get you a piezo that is extremely close to the original Motorola piezo.