Naw man, I've called the shop and emailed with some guy and they get the HP-10Ws from ljudia, which as you might know won't get them before 29th july (preliminary date).
Did they change the date for when the hp-10w would be avaliable?
When I ordered them I'm sure the date was some time mid june?
Naw man, I've called the shop and emailed with some guy and they get the HP-10Ws from ljudia, which as you might know won't get them before 29th july (preliminary date).
Argh, sorry then, it just seems that they do according to their website.. Seems like every last one of them have been purchased then.
Almost have all my parts in stock, if anybody has the time I would much appreciate some confirmation to my questions, just to make sure I am doing things right:
1. I have purchased the AMP9 basic pre assembled. For limited the low frequency I read to replace the input caps. These are what I have come up with. Will they work on the amp9? LOT OF 8 Polyester Film Capacitor 0 1uF 100V 5 | eBay
2. I only make use of 2 outputs? Run each set of speakers in 4ohms and ignore the other 2 channels as I am using piezos?
3. I have purchased KSN1001A peizos. From what I gather you have to wire them inline with a resistor. I have purchased 3w 33ohm and 3w 47ohm resistors.
- Do I wire these both in a row, or just use one of them?
- Do they go on the positive or the negative wire?
4. Need I worry about not having a volume control? How easy will the amp be to blow up if mis-treated?
Don't think I can think of anything else.. any answers would be much greatly appreciated!
Thanks and I look forward to starting the build 🙂 Will provide pictures.
1. I have purchased the AMP9 basic pre assembled. For limited the low frequency I read to replace the input caps. These are what I have come up with. Will they work on the amp9? LOT OF 8 Polyester Film Capacitor 0 1uF 100V 5 | eBay
2. I only make use of 2 outputs? Run each set of speakers in 4ohms and ignore the other 2 channels as I am using piezos?
3. I have purchased KSN1001A peizos. From what I gather you have to wire them inline with a resistor. I have purchased 3w 33ohm and 3w 47ohm resistors.
- Do I wire these both in a row, or just use one of them?
- Do they go on the positive or the negative wire?
4. Need I worry about not having a volume control? How easy will the amp be to blow up if mis-treated?
Don't think I can think of anything else.. any answers would be much greatly appreciated!
Thanks and I look forward to starting the build 🙂 Will provide pictures.
950k now. At the rate of the past year 1 million might be hit by mid-year!
I'm really not sure why this thread isn't a sticky.
Now more than a million views. Amazing.
Saturnus - we all owe you a big thanks for a great design, your amazing stamina in answering questions, and an creating an opportunity for us to learn. I vote we name a day of the week after you...maybe we could call it Saturday. 🙂
Dioscovered the same problem as the rest of you trying to build a boominator this year, they are out of stock everywhere! 😡
They recomended the "Bumper 1048-c instead (1048 C - HIFI KIT) it got slightly diffrent specs than the hp-10W and is 3-4 mm shallower. Can theese elements replace the hp-10W or is it simply better to wait untill next year?
They also offered me a special prise on theese since i talked to them the same day as they sold the last 4 hp speakers..
They recomended the "Bumper 1048-c instead (1048 C - HIFI KIT) it got slightly diffrent specs than the hp-10W and is 3-4 mm shallower. Can theese elements replace the hp-10W or is it simply better to wait untill next year?

Dioscovered the same problem as the rest of you trying to build a boominator this year, they are out of stock everywhere! 😡
They recomended the "Bumper 1048-c instead (1048 C - HIFI KIT) it got slightly diffrent specs than the hp-10W and is 3-4 mm shallower. Can theese elements replace the hp-10W or is it simply better to wait untill next year?They also offered me a special prise on theese since i talked to them the same day as they sold the last 4 hp speakers..
No. They're useless for this.
No. They're useless for this.
No boominator this year then..
Yeah, it was 15 June at first. But they changed it, for reasons unknown. I actually emailed ljudia too back when the preliminary date was the 15th, and they said they'll get 80 units then but i guess the manufacturer couldn't deliver.Did they change the date for when the hp-10w would be avaliable?
When I ordered them I'm sure the date was some time mid june?
Their website is crappy, I agree. But their customer service was excellent! I don't think there's anywhere you can get them right now actually, they're not in stock anywhere it seems.Argh, sorry then, it just seems that they do according to their website.. Seems like every last one of them have been purchased then.
No boominator this year then..
I believe Blue-aran gets new stock somewhere in August, their previous stock was sold out even before the delivery date 😉.
You could also build a mini?
Looks nice!Goo Bominator mini v2 Bluetooth sound test outside.
https://vimeo.com/97959577
NB Its not a very good camera and mic, just regular pocket camera. But you get the feeling🙂
Goo
Can you please tell me the weight and build price?
Please Help Me
Right i was just about to cut the holes for the hp10's when i thought i should double check my measurements.
Using the sketch up model tape measure tool thing, the cut out was 232mm,
but in somewhere i read that 220mm was the correct cut out.
This is worrying me quite a bit, what have others done? I dont want to cut the wrong size hole and ruin my lovely birch ply.
A quick reply would be welcome as i have tomorrow off work and want to get a lot done on my Boominator. The sun is out in the UK.😱
Right i was just about to cut the holes for the hp10's when i thought i should double check my measurements.
Using the sketch up model tape measure tool thing, the cut out was 232mm,
but in somewhere i read that 220mm was the correct cut out.
This is worrying me quite a bit, what have others done? I dont want to cut the wrong size hole and ruin my lovely birch ply.
A quick reply would be welcome as i have tomorrow off work and want to get a lot done on my Boominator. The sun is out in the UK.😱
Please Help Me
Right i was just about to cut the holes for the hp10's when i thought i should double check my measurements.
Using the sketch up model tape measure tool thing, the cut out was 232mm,
but in somewhere i read that 220mm was the correct cut out.
This is worrying me quite a bit, what have others done? I dont want to cut the wrong size hole and ruin my lovely birch ply.
A quick reply would be welcome as i have tomorrow off work and want to get a lot done on my Boominator. The sun is out in the UK.😱
Hi Gav
I just cut mine to the measurements on sketchup....
Attachments
Thanks guys,
Thats very reassuring, I will carry on as planned then with 232mm.
Trying to get it done for a party next sunday and tomorrow is my best day to build.
Thats very reassuring, I will carry on as planned then with 232mm.
Trying to get it done for a party next sunday and tomorrow is my best day to build.
Looks nice!
Can you please tell me the weight and build price?
5.5 kg and ca 300 euros.
Saturnus, as the tweeters will be in stock soon, I am again working on my CAD files. I would like to have some comments on a change I would like to make:
I want to use 9mm multiplex for the front baffles since we still have some in stock. Then I intend to route out an edge so that the woofer drops right in and we only need to use a little sealant and some screws to tighten it. The gap between the magnets and the center brace will be filled with a small piece of wood so it is still glued to the center brace as well.
An alternative method is to make the height and depth a little smaller so that the magnets reach the center brace and as a result the box length should be increased to match the total volume.
Could you maybe elaborate on the acoustic consequences this might have?

I want to use 9mm multiplex for the front baffles since we still have some in stock. Then I intend to route out an edge so that the woofer drops right in and we only need to use a little sealant and some screws to tighten it. The gap between the magnets and the center brace will be filled with a small piece of wood so it is still glued to the center brace as well.
An alternative method is to make the height and depth a little smaller so that the magnets reach the center brace and as a result the box length should be increased to match the total volume.
Could you maybe elaborate on the acoustic consequences this might have?
Just a quick question: Isn´t the magnet supposed to be glued metal to metal (with the centerbrace having a big enough hole for the two magnets to touch)??
Just a quick question: Isn´t the magnet supposed to be glued metal to metal (with the centerbrace having a big enough hole for the two magnets to touch)??
P.audio changed the magnet on the HP10W to a smaller and lighter but equally powerful one since the first version so now it's 6mm less deep overall. That means you glue them to the center brace instead. It also means that the small efficiency increase potential there was by gluing them together due to the former version having a poorer magnet design has gone so there's no need to do it anymore. The benefits are now purely mechanical in nature.
Could you maybe elaborate on the acoustic consequences this might have?
If the internal volume remains the same (to 0.x liter) then I don't see that much difference.
I would not sink the mounting gasket though. It may seem strange but it actually performs better with the tiny compression of the cut-out being seemingly too small and then rounding (or chamfer) of the edges around the cut-out.
Naturally, you are welcome to test it yourself.
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