At tuning frequency the air in the port will be moving out at the same time as the speaking is moving out i believe roughly. You should do some googling perhaps start with wikipedia, base reflex enclosure, shouldnt take you to long to learn how this all works.
Last edited:
At tuning frequency the air in the port will be moving out at the same time as the speaking is moving out i believe roughly. You should do some googling perhaps start with wikipedia, base reflex enclosure, shouldnt take you to long to learn how this all works.
In theory the drivers actually does not move at all at the port tuning frequency, only the volume of air in the port moves.
Barbfa's point in that you should not couple left and right signals into the same volume of air as you risk very strange behaviour when the stereo signal is not identical especially in the bass region in either channel. This is very evident on especially older and other high quality recordings whereas less of an issue if your only source is poorly produced, especially newer recordings.
Therefore I recommend that when you are building a half-boominator that you do not have holes in the center brace but instead treat each as a seperate speaker with it's own reflex port..
Since there is no HP-10W available. Are these a good alternative until HP-10W are in stock? They will be like 1-2 months to get and i need something right now ^^
MGR F-2010W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
MGR F-2010W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Since there is no HP-10W available. Are these a good alternative until HP-10W are in stock? They will be like 1-2 months to get and i need something right now ^^
MGR F-2010W - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
In stock
The only viable substitute is the superior P.Audio SN-10MB Series II.
And Eminence Basslite S2010 but that requires real tweeters and a real crossover plus a slightly changed cabinet design.
And can I just say that Intertechnik is a fine webstore. Never had any complaints.
And Eminence Basslite S2010 but that requires real tweeters and a real crossover plus a slightly changed cabinet design.
And can I just say that Intertechnik is a fine webstore. Never had any complaints.
Yeah. Pretty expensive for a boombox that might break or get stolen when i think about it. I was thinking on a 1500 SEK (~170EUR) budget. Already spent 70EUR on the AMP6.
Oh well. Now that i got a quality amp i guess i need decent speakers too.
And Eminence Basslite S2010 but that requires real tweeters and a real crossover plus a slightly changed cabinet design.
And can I just say that Intertechnik is a fine webstore. Never had any complaints.
Just curious but can't you only get the Eminence Basslite S2010 in the US? Ninja'd myself, found them at BlueAran.
Also, fun is about to start.
Attachments
HP-10W on its way 🙂
I cant figure out how to calculate the size of the box. I really suck at building stuff. My friend is helping me but i dont know how large the box should be.
Help please? 🙂 I've downloaded WinISD but doesnt make any sense to me.
Im using:
2x HP10W
2x Piezo
Amp6-Basic
7,2Ah battery
Is 3" reflexports enough by the way?
I cant figure out how to calculate the size of the box. I really suck at building stuff. My friend is helping me but i dont know how large the box should be.
Help please? 🙂 I've downloaded WinISD but doesnt make any sense to me.
Im using:
2x HP10W
2x Piezo
Amp6-Basic
7,2Ah battery
Is 3" reflexports enough by the way?
This looks like some nice gadget, to have installed in the lid?
Batteriindikator 12v för solcell, golfbil, elbil, husvagn mm på Tradera.
just too bad that it is not for sale anymore, and i cant find it anywhere else 🙁
Batteriindikator 12v för solcell, golfbil, elbil, husvagn mm på Tradera.
just too bad that it is not for sale anymore, and i cant find it anywhere else 🙁
Hey folks!
I am having a bit trouble finding the right resistors.
Can I use a 47 ohm, 2W carbon film resistor with the monacor MPT-001?
10ps Japan RM (RMG) resistor carbon film audio grade 2W 47ohm|eBay
I am having a bit trouble finding the right resistors.
Can I use a 47 ohm, 2W carbon film resistor with the monacor MPT-001?
10ps Japan RM (RMG) resistor carbon film audio grade 2W 47ohm|eBay
Why not build with HP-12W, just make the box a little bigger...
They have an extra DB in sens...
And dont put the magnets directly to eachouther, it will not give an extra sens.
have some centimeter between them.
They have an extra DB in sens...
And dont put the magnets directly to eachouther, it will not give an extra sens.
have some centimeter between them.
Hey folks!
I am having a bit trouble finding the right resistors.
Can I use a 47 ohm, 2W carbon film resistor with the monacor MPT-001?
10ps Japan RM (RMG) resistor carbon film audio grade 2W 47ohm|eBay
Any resistor between 12-150ohms will be fine.
2W is sufficent.
Hi folks,
We want to up the sound quality in our boominator and use PHT-407N tweeters with a crossover, but in order to save money on crossovers is it possible to wire the 4 x PHT-407N on the same channel? I've taken a look at some examples of series/parallel wiring, but i'm not sure I understand it fully.
So is the following wiring possible and recommended if we use Monacor's DN2618(http://www.monacor.dk/produkter/hoejttalerenheder-delefilter/vnr/122260/):
Or should we just go for one more crossover?
We want to up the sound quality in our boominator and use PHT-407N tweeters with a crossover, but in order to save money on crossovers is it possible to wire the 4 x PHT-407N on the same channel? I've taken a look at some examples of series/parallel wiring, but i'm not sure I understand it fully.
So is the following wiring possible and recommended if we use Monacor's DN2618(http://www.monacor.dk/produkter/hoejttalerenheder-delefilter/vnr/122260/):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or should we just go for one more crossover?
Another cross over. Tweeters in series and woofers in parallel.
I'm also wondering how you could even think it would work?
I'm also wondering how you could even think it would work?
Last edited:
I bave been wondering for a while if i have cut the bafflehole to small.
Its 22cm wide as in the sketchup file.
I havent found any good picture of how it is attached.
So I wonder if Sealing gasket will solve that problem or if I must make the hole bigger?
Its 22cm wide as in the sketchup file.
I havent found any good picture of how it is attached.
So I wonder if Sealing gasket will solve that problem or if I must make the hole bigger?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The 22 cm is correct. You have to round the edges of your cut with a router (or another suitable tool) for the grill to fit. Remember that the speaker+grill is going on the inside of the enclosure. They should be glued together with strong glue (e.g. two-component glue).
Take a look at Phaedras' boominator:
Take a look at Phaedras' boominator:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I was testing the AMP6 substitute, the MKII TA2024 amplifier, yesterday with some 8 ohm speakers connected. I'm pretty impressed with the output levels.
But I noticed that the chip got a little hot, even at very low volumes. I haven't had time for testing outside at max. volume for a longer period of time, but does the chip usually get really hot?
Is a heatsink needed? I mean... Afterall it's only 6 W in peaks at full volume with 8 ohm speakers.
But I noticed that the chip got a little hot, even at very low volumes. I haven't had time for testing outside at max. volume for a longer period of time, but does the chip usually get really hot?
Is a heatsink needed? I mean... Afterall it's only 6 W in peaks at full volume with 8 ohm speakers.
Is a heatsink needed? I mean... Afterall it's only 6 W in peaks at full volume with 8 ohm speakers.
Correction: 10 W in peaks at max. volume. in 8 ohm. 🙂
@Saturnus: That just goes to show how lost I am...
Anyhow, i thought of a new idea. Building a half boominator with the ability to connect the second channel to a bass cabinet so we can utilize our HP12Ws.
And if i understand it correctly (according to Speaker Box Enclosure Designer / Calculator) then the following is close to ideal measures for a sealed box(Double the size for two drivers off course) at QTC 1 (Or should it be 1.1)?
Anyhow, i thought of a new idea. Building a half boominator with the ability to connect the second channel to a bass cabinet so we can utilize our HP12Ws.
And if i understand it correctly (according to Speaker Box Enclosure Designer / Calculator) then the following is close to ideal measures for a sealed box(Double the size for two drivers off course) at QTC 1 (Or should it be 1.1)?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
The 22 cm is correct. You have to round the edges of your cut with a router (or another suitable tool) for the grill to fit. Remember that the speaker+grill is going on the inside of the enclosure. They should be glued together with strong glue (e.g. two-component glue).
Thank you! 🙂 Yep, I knew that. Just some painting to do now...
I've read that some take off the rubber from the grill and some let them be, so what is the best way?
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Class D
- The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine