which Amp instead of the Amp6 basic
Hi
I've used the smp6 basic for a couple of years now, but it has now died.
Which amp would you recommend as a replacement for this.
Hi
I've used the smp6 basic for a couple of years now, but it has now died.
Which amp would you recommend as a replacement for this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Not quite done since I still have to make the solar panel mount on the top (making it adjustable to 45*) but the box works. Went with 30w, and a Genasun 13.2v Lifepo4 MPPT controller (most efficient available).
I have my old boominator which is a copy, and then I built this with 12's and baltic birch. Definitely sounds way better and is louder with less input. Bass difference is considerable, with slightly less output from 2-3k (tweet/12 crossover points). Had to go with 8 piezo's to keep up with the 12's.
All the corners are oak, and then I got it stained. I also added adjustable rubber feet so it can balance on the various uneven terrain and not soak the bottom of the wood (wet ground/grass).
It is larger than the original boominator obviously, however with the baltic birch instead of mdf this time, it is around the same weight as my previous build, so rock on!
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I read in an early post of Saturnus' that the new Goldwood 10" drivers with the same model # will not work. Can anybody confirm if the ones QComponents sells work?
If not, what alternative do I have being in Canada?
Q-Components
Thanks!
If not, what alternative do I have being in Canada?
Q-Components
Thanks!
If those specs are correct then no it can't be used. Strangely PE has the exact same speaker with totally different specs that can be used.
Goldwood GW-1058 10" Pro Woofer | 290-380
But I think Q components just made a mistake and copy/pasted the specs from the GW-1038 by mistake
http://qcomponents.ca/product.php?productid=170&cat=54&page=1
Thanks for the response!
I have sent them an email and hopefully those are the right ones, shipping kills out here if it isn't from Canada.
I have sent them an email and hopefully those are the right ones, shipping kills out here if it isn't from Canada.
The Maxamp - no doubt. I believe canopy sound have some in stock - if not, i'm sure Wesley's got some at Accusafe.nl 😉
What is the current draw for the Maxamp 20 over a timeframe (mA per hour) for max-volume and for "moderate" volume?
The Amp6-basic was said by Saturnus to draw about 350mAh (full blast?) It would be great to have a number for the Maxamp 20 as well, mainly for battery calculations.
The Amp6-basic was said by Saturnus to draw about 350mAh (full blast?) It would be great to have a number for the Maxamp 20 as well, mainly for battery calculations.
Full blast before audible clipping about 340mA (amp6 was 360mA).
At lower power the efficiency of the maxamp20 is much higher than the amp6, so significantly lower. How much? Depends on what you define as lower volume.
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Just ordered the MaxAmp20. I'm excited to try it out. Btw, love that they've shown the production process on their web site. Kudos to WesleyK 🙂
Saturnus - is the tuning of the new micro suitable for indoor use?
The reason I ask is I've been asked to build a powered speaker for a friends study, i was thinking of using the micro design but with all drivers facing the same way - battery compartment would house the power supply.
I'm very aware of the benefits of the bipolar design for outdoor use but seeing as this is for indoor use only would front facing drivers with your tuning be a good or bad idea?
Thanks!
The reason I ask is I've been asked to build a powered speaker for a friends study, i was thinking of using the micro design but with all drivers facing the same way - battery compartment would house the power supply.
I'm very aware of the benefits of the bipolar design for outdoor use but seeing as this is for indoor use only would front facing drivers with your tuning be a good or bad idea?
Thanks!
as long as we are re-hashing this topic again, if one had to choose between an older TA 2020 amp board--Helder hifi MK iii 2020 board OR a YJ black/blue tpa3116 board, what would be the choice?
I kind of like the idea of the 3116 since it could be run at any voltage up to 26v so it seems more flexible and if you were on mains power it could be louder?
but I am not hte expert.
So:
2020 vs 3116 ?
I kind of like the idea of the 3116 since it could be run at any voltage up to 26v so it seems more flexible and if you were on mains power it could be louder?
but I am not hte expert.
So:
2020 vs 3116 ?
I have a couple of them and couldn't be happier. The one change I would make is to replace the JST connectors with screw terminals like the audio out but that just comes down to personal preference.
The input is designed to accept screw terminals 🙂. The footprint will accept 3 types:
- Jst
- 3.5mm socket
- 3.81mm pitch screw terminal
The potentiometer can only be used with a jst connector for now.
- Jst
- 3.5mm socket
- 3.81mm pitch screw terminal
The potentiometer can only be used with a jst connector for now.
Half a mini with 4Ohm speakers instead of 8ohms. If i am correct.
And are there other tweeters possible instead of the Dayton Audio ND16F? Can't find them anywhere.
Other question is it possible to make the electronics compartment bigger without changing the sizes of the speaker compartments?
The recipe, if you can call a DIY project a recipe, is here
Notes:
1) you will find hints, tips, and relevant information in the posts from that point forward (actually back too) mixed in with discussion of the regular Boominator. I have mixed feelings about how this thread has grown and evolved. On one hand a "how to" would be great to ensure people efficiently get to a good result. That said, I've learned a lot due to the current structure. I think that is of real value too.
2) Thus far, no one has posted photos of a completed mini (or micro) so there isn't a lot of real world experience in the forum yet. We might not see this ramp up until late June because the tweeters are out of stock right now.
3) Saturnus cautioned that the mini might not be a good first build because there is little room for the electronics. Planning ahead is key. I thought I did for my NS6 mini but there is a lot I would do differently.