R2 and R4 change to 22Kohm (usually standard)
R5 and R6 change to 100Kohm (should come with the kit but if not just order them separately)
C14 and C15 change to WIMA MKS02 1µF (like this: WIMA MKS02 1uF, 50V :: MKS02 (2.5mm) :: WIMA :: Film Foil :: Capacitors :: Passive Components :: Electronic Parts :: Banzai Music GmbH)
Can't help you on the 41hz.com forum btw. Lost my password and forum refuses to issue me another one. So essentially locked out (although I could create another account under a different e-mail if I thought it was worth my time).
R5 and R6 change to 100Kohm (should come with the kit but if not just order them separately)
C14 and C15 change to WIMA MKS02 1µF (like this: WIMA MKS02 1uF, 50V :: MKS02 (2.5mm) :: WIMA :: Film Foil :: Capacitors :: Passive Components :: Electronic Parts :: Banzai Music GmbH)
Can't help you on the 41hz.com forum btw. Lost my password and forum refuses to issue me another one. So essentially locked out (although I could create another account under a different e-mail if I thought it was worth my time).
You are so helpfull... Thanks a lot.
- R2 and R4 = this mod is for the ionput sensivity?
- R5 and R6 = this mod is for the cut of frequency around 60 Hz?
- C14 and C15 = this mod is for the DC filtering?
It is just to know what i am doing, but i will follow your instructions !
Thanks, i ahve now order the last electronic part for my project . I am happy with that !
Manu
- R2 and R4 = this mod is for the ionput sensivity?
- R5 and R6 = this mod is for the cut of frequency around 60 Hz?
- C14 and C15 = this mod is for the DC filtering?
It is just to know what i am doing, but i will follow your instructions !
Thanks, i ahve now order the last electronic part for my project . I am happy with that !
Manu
R2+R4= input resistors, sets input impedance
R5+R6= feedback resistors, sets gain together with input impedance (above)
C14+C15= input capacitors, not DC filtering but input high pass filter and DC blocking
R5+R6= feedback resistors, sets gain together with input impedance (above)
C14+C15= input capacitors, not DC filtering but input high pass filter and DC blocking
Real quick question here, as I can't locate where to find this. What is being used to seal the woofers and tweeters to the cabinet? I know to avoid silicon and to use acrylic seal to fill in the gaps in the tweeters. Should I use this as well in between the woofer/grill and cabinet? I'm assuming I'll also plug the wiring hole with something. Thanks!
Why somme people made a hole in the center brace for the woofers? I mean the "central" hole.
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j338/MarcusNordlander/boominator/2011-02-22154013.jpg?782
I received my woofers and made a "measurement try" yesterday according to the sketchup of the standard boominator.
There is no need of making a hole here, it is just perfect fitted to have the boomer directly touching the centerbrace without any hole no? Am i wrong? With the plan and my measurement, it will left 1 or 2 mm, which is good because there are the grill and joint.
Is there something i mess?
If not, i can directly stick the boomers to the centerbrace? Or no need of sticking it?
Thank you for your lights!!
Manu
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j338/MarcusNordlander/boominator/2011-02-22154013.jpg?782
I received my woofers and made a "measurement try" yesterday according to the sketchup of the standard boominator.
There is no need of making a hole here, it is just perfect fitted to have the boomer directly touching the centerbrace without any hole no? Am i wrong? With the plan and my measurement, it will left 1 or 2 mm, which is good because there are the grill and joint.
Is there something i mess?
If not, i can directly stick the boomers to the centerbrace? Or no need of sticking it?
Thank you for your lights!!
Manu
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The HP10W was changed slightly shortly after originally posting in 2007 which made it 5mm less deep. What happened was they used a smaller but equally powerful magnet structure which also cut the weight of each driver by a few hundred grams each.
Ok, but there is no need that the boomers stand together directly (magnet to magnet)?
I mean magnet to magnet is equal to magnet-centerbrace-magnet? I just have to stick the boomers to the centerbraces ?
Thank you Saturnus for your explanation,
Manu
I mean magnet to magnet is equal to magnet-centerbrace-magnet? I just have to stick the boomers to the centerbraces ?
Thank you Saturnus for your explanation,
Manu
Ok, but there is no need that the boomers stand together directly (magnet to magnet)?
I mean magnet to magnet is equal to magnet-centerbrace-magnet? I just have to stick the boomers to the centerbraces ?
No. Yes. Yes. 😀
Did anyone try this amp :
http://www.audiophonics.fr/audiophonics-ta2020-v22-module-amplificateur-tripath-2x20watts-p-4536.html
It is nearly the same on the paper than the amp6, but i have no idea of the power consumption ... But construction seems to be really serious.
The max input voltage is 14.6V.
Manu
http://www.audiophonics.fr/audiophonics-ta2020-v22-module-amplificateur-tripath-2x20watts-p-4536.html
It is nearly the same on the paper than the amp6, but i have no idea of the power consumption ... But construction seems to be really serious.
The max input voltage is 14.6V.
Manu
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This is decent alternative to the amp6 T-Amp Tripath TA2021 2x20 Class-T Audio Amplifier Board 320-602
Hi,
My question has nothing to do with the boominator but with the amp6.
41Hz forgot the two decoupling capacitor which has to be soldered to TA2020.
Is this kind of capacitor okay for replacement :
Condensateur électrolytique au tantale perle radial 0,1 µF ±20 % 35 V AVX TAP104M035SCS - Vente Condensateur électrolytique au tantale perle radial 0,1 µF ±20 % 35 V AVX TAP104M035SCS sur conrad.fr | 447024
It has to be 0.1uF but i don't know the rated voltage.
Thanks!
Manu
My question has nothing to do with the boominator but with the amp6.
41Hz forgot the two decoupling capacitor which has to be soldered to TA2020.
Is this kind of capacitor okay for replacement :
Condensateur électrolytique au tantale perle radial 0,1 µF ±20 % 35 V AVX TAP104M035SCS - Vente Condensateur électrolytique au tantale perle radial 0,1 µF ±20 % 35 V AVX TAP104M035SCS sur conrad.fr | 447024
It has to be 0.1uF but i don't know the rated voltage.
Thanks!
Manu
Thanks, order!
It is very difficult to get the good plywood!! I can get some okoume in 12 mm, but birch is very difficult to find. Number of ply should be 7 minimum no?
It is the last important thing i did not get...
I will post some photo of the tweeter improvment. I just filled the gap around the tweeter but put nothing on the back, you will tell me if i should do more.
Thanks Saturnus to be so helpfull, it impossible to get some answer from 41Hz... But no problem, i got the essential thing from them : the amplifier 😉
It is very difficult to get the good plywood!! I can get some okoume in 12 mm, but birch is very difficult to find. Number of ply should be 7 minimum no?
It is the last important thing i did not get...
I will post some photo of the tweeter improvment. I just filled the gap around the tweeter but put nothing on the back, you will tell me if i should do more.
Thanks Saturnus to be so helpfull, it impossible to get some answer from 41Hz... But no problem, i got the essential thing from them : the amplifier 😉
Got this today: Komplett.no - Søk: Fiio E12 Mont Blanc
Seems like it does the job for Boominator Signatur.
I like to use same batteries to Power player and AMp, What to use so i dont get groundloop. I cant find any spesific sugestion on that.
Bjoern
Seems like it does the job for Boominator Signatur.
I like to use same batteries to Power player and AMp, What to use so i dont get groundloop. I cant find any spesific sugestion on that.
Bjoern
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Maby this would be Perfect for Signatur: [Impression] FiiO X3 ? High Fi, Low Price.
Pros and cons?
Bjorn
Pros and cons?
Bjorn
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